Transmission Rebuilders Network

700R4 / 4L60 Feedback

QUESTION:

Mileage: a lot

Repair History: Dave® -- Dave Foster wrote: > > Hi all I got a 1989 full size chevy pu trk 2x4 that I rebuilt the trans > in 700-R4 . the unit works great , but while driving down the road at a > steady speed the converter will unlock & lock back up for no reason. > the scanner shows it lock & unlock and you can feel it ,But it stays in > closed loop. The unit has new solenoid ,pressure switch & temp switch in > the trans , and sets no codes. > also the brake light switch has been replaced , because sometimes the > cruse control just shuts off & unlocks the converter , and the dealer > said that they have had a lot of trouble with this switch . well the > unit still locks & unlocks & the cruse will still just shuts off at > random , the truck stays in closed loop.And the thermostat has been > changed , the tps has been tested unable to find any glitches in it so > far . the map sensor vacuum lines are in good shape . but this thing > still unlocks and locks back up while driving steady and the cruse still > just shuts off randomly. > the speed sensor seems to work just fine. > doe's any one have any ideas for me on what to do or check next ? Thanks > for your help in this matter. > > Dave Foster d.b.a. The Transmission Technician > 1312 Morningside Dr Melbourne Fl 32901 > transtech@metrolink.net > AAMCO master certified-ASE-ATRA > Proud member of TRNi-technicians from around the world > working together on today's sophisticated transmissions > TRNi is second to none Dave Foster The Transmission Technician transtech@metrolink.net phone / fax (407)728-1155 Home page TRNi is second to none

Work Completed: Everything everyone posted

Summary: Sorry it took four months to Re: I can't work on it going down I95

David Foster
transtech@metrolink.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Fri Aug 20 18:45:19 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, L/U locks & unlocks
  Hi all, I wanted to post a fix for this but don't have one. ( bummer ) We have tried everything that everyone suggested, and the VEP remains a mystery.. Sorry that it took so long to update this but we never can get the customer to leave the truck to fight with it. He has put over 30,000 miles on it now sense I rebuilt it. we still have the same problem, I just found out that the truck has been doing this for over two years, long before I rebuilt the trans. This truck is all hi/pro and just full of electric toys. Well I give up I can't fix it. P/S something else he even put on an after market cruise to stop the problem that he was having with it and it will not work either. Life goes on, and this VEP can go somewhere else. Thanks everyone that sent in suggestions. Dave®

  David Foster
  transtech@metrolink.net

• Date: Fri Aug 20 20:50:25 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, L/U locks & unlocks
  David, The stoplight switch on this model pick up is adjustable. You can adjust it by the little tab that is sticking out on it. Also, do you watch the brake light swith off/on the scanner as you drive. I have found them to be right on the edge of the adjustment and turn off and on as the vehicle is drive. hope this helps

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

• Date: Fri Aug 20 21:06:15 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, L/U locks & unlocks
  Roger, Thanks but that was on of the first things that we tried. Even replaced the switch because a friend at Chevy said they sell a lot of them. Every electronic part that could possibly have any thing to do with this has been replaced. It's a four month old post I just wanted to have an update so Tod would not get out his hat Or stop me from posting on the new form. . This truck is so full of add on electronics it's unreal. There is no telling what is causing the problem. This truck even has an ice box built into the custom seat that is a little refergiator. The owner has more money than brains, If you ask me. Dave®

  David Foster
  transtech@metrolink.net

• Date: Sat Aug 21 05:50:56 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, L/U locks & unlocks
  How about using one of the many ways to bypass. Ball in snout of switch , using fourth gear switch and not worry about computer.

  Leonard Marucci
  len@kwiknet.net

• Date: Sat Aug 21 06:38:52 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, L/U locks & unlocks
  Dave,did you try changing the T.C.C valve-Sonnax has them for non-pwm and pwm types.CJ of Canada

  Jean Bracconier
  trantech@ilos.net

• Date: Fri Oct 15 06:07:08 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, L/U locks & unlocks
  Daniel, If the R/I drum bushings are only worn on one side & the drum support (stator support) is worn all the way around then the hole in the drum is off center, or the drum is out of balance.

  Ted Turney
  tedeb@prodigy.net

UPDATE:

Daniel Wills
dwills@foxinternet.net

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Fri Oct 15 18:50:06 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, worn reverse input drum bushings
  Daniel, I'm not going to tell you which route the lube takes on this unit, I need to look at the flow charts first, but you can betcha the material from this converter is going right into the cooler and that will plug up for sure, your best bet is to bypass that cooler and put a 25000 lbs tru-cool on it. It will even run cooler. I just finished an e4od that wiped out the low roller and forward planet and I took a clean bottle and back blew the cooler into it, you wouldn't believe the amount of converter clutch material that was in there. steve in spokane bassman sallbee@worldnet.att.net ph 1509-924-3159 fax 1-509-924-5044 web site www.customtrans.com -----Original Message----- From: TRNi Inc [SMTP:trnsman@netgate.net] Sent: Friday, October 15, 1999 5:57 PM To: trni3@po.databack.com Subject: 700R4, worn reverse input drum bushings: UPDATE It's me again, I had the converter cut open today. The dampner spring assem came apart and gouged the turbine. It made some metal flakes. I thought about posting this as a fix but maybe someone can tell me why I am wrong. If you have flakes running into the lube circuit, couldn't that block lube to the drum directly, while flow is still maintained to the rear planets. This C/B is starting to make more sense. Daniel Wills dwills@foxinternet.ne

  Steve Allbee
  steve@customtrans.com

• Date: Sat Oct 16 07:36:45 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, L/U locks & unlocks
  hey David sounds like a coolant temp sensor to me or maybe it low on coolant lets hear what you find

  Jeff Anglesey
  oldtimer57@hotmail.com

• Date: Sat Oct 16 07:42:57 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, L/U locks & unlocks
  David, I had some do that. It turned out to be that the solenoid was craked where the ball seats. Another one I had do that turned out to be the VB. I don't know what in the VB, but after I changed all the electronics and such, I put a VB on it and it worked normal after that. What threw me on that one was that when I put a ball under the solenoid it would stay locked up.

  Mike Sullivan
  advance@cowtown.net

FIX;

David Foster
transtech@metrolink.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: N/A

Repair History: Hi Joe, It would be a lot easer to respond, if the post was done as a new problem. Instead of : Problem/Fix. Once the Fix is in the subject. The thread on the web site is closed. I think that you will have better luck getting help if you just post it as a new problem. ( JMHO )

Work Completed: None

Summary: Hi Joe, in 1985 GM. added a dam neer thr pump bolt hole buy the pressure blow off ball and spring. The area between the dam & bolt hole is now a void. cross leaks may fill this void with oil so an orficed cup plug was removed to give the void full exhaust. When an early pump body, no dam, is matched with a late cover then line pressure goes past the dam and out the exhaust hole. This causes low line pressure,delayed engagements, and slipping on shifts. Forget the casting numbers! Late pump covers will fit all pump bodies if you modify them buy pluging the exhaust hole. Use the small orificed cup plug avabile in SK 700 & SK 22-79 Shift kits. Early pump covers will fit all pump bodies as is. Late pump bodies will fit all pump covers as is. Early pump bodies will fit early covers as is & modified late covers. Summary: Always plug the hole in the late cover, then mix & match bodies and covers any way you choose. All of this info is in the A.T.R.A. 1990 seminar manual.

David Foster
transtech@metrolink.net

RESPONSES;

FIX;

David Foster
transtech@metrolink.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: 120915

Repair History: Hi Group, I am having a problem with the speedo driven gear on the truck. It rounds out the square drive part of the Driven gear. It has the 90 adapter that goes on the speedo bullet which has been replaced also.

Work Completed: If I take the bullet attach it to the adapter and install a driven gear into it I can turn the gear by hand and it is free and smooth.This has stripped out the driven gear 3 times now in less than 200 miles. And there is no signs of any other gear damage ( hour glassing ) On the third try I even super glued in the drive lug into the driven gear, so I knew that the drive lug was getting full contact into the driven gear, for the most support. Do you have any idea as to what is causing this?

Summary: Need Help does anyone make a steel shank gear like chrysler for GM Thanks!

David Foster
transtech@metrolink.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Tue Oct 26 13:07:29 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, Rounding out the square Drive Speedo
  Hi Dave, A couple quick thoughts on this...Is the right angle adapter NEW? I've seen them intermittently/momentarily bind up, and strip drive tips and/or gears... Also, if this has a cruise control transducer, they can also momentarily bind up and do this.. One last thought...Is the tip on the Right angle adapter long enough to make at least 3/4" of tip engagement? How about the driven gear housing..I assume it's not worn allowing gear movement?? Thats all I know...Good Luck PTF Rod Cayko Rod's Transmission Services Coeur d' Alene, Idaho Member TRNi 1 & 2 "For Your Daily Fix"

  Rod Cayko
  cayko@aol.com

• Date: Tue Oct 26 15:11:35 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, Rounding out the square Drive Speedo
  Hi Rod, Thanks for your thoughts. The adapter is not new and it does not have a transducer for cruise control. The driven gear housing was replaced on the second try with new, I don't see anything wrong with the old one though. The 90 adapter is off my truck and I put the one off the suburban on my truck, on the second try my speedo is still working fine, so I don't think that there is an intermittently/momentarily bind up with the adapter. I can take the little drive lug put it in a drill and run the speedo just fine Nice and smooth, the cable is free and the head works fine. If the head had a bind up I think that it would peg the needle before it could round out the square drive of the driven gear. The needle does not jump around it holds speed steady. On the third try I glued the metal driver lug down into the bottom of the speedo driven gear with super glue, so I know that it is getting full contact of the available square drive part of the driven gear. Im at a loss, as for what to do with it.

  David Foster
  transtech@metrolink.net

• Date: Tue Oct 26 20:28:55 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, Rounding out the square Drive Speedo
  Hi Dave When you swapped angle-drive with your truck,did you swap the insert also? Just wondering if the corners are rounded or worn a little. What about it maybe being bent also? If it was wobbling a little..........maybe..........dunno. Good Luck anyway.

  Chuck Clampitt
  mrshift@starcomm.net

FIX;

David Foster
transtech@metrolink.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: 97762

Repair History: none that I know of

Work Completed: Rebuild with reaction planet and all the goodies

Summary: Hi Group, It's dumb question time again. I have a aluminum drive shaft in this truck and when I went to pull it I had to pry it out of the companion flange, when I got it out I have 2 coil tapered springs inside of the yoke. They load the output shaft to the front of the transmission. I have never seen anything like this before ( so im a little slow ) Are these springs suppose to be in the yoke and if so why. Are they to deaden noise or something? I just do not see why they would want to load the output shaft. These springs look like the ones that they use on the exhaust manifold only they are shorter and heavier. Has anyone else ran into these springs? And are you replacing them? Thanks!

David Foster
transtech@metrolink.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Fri Jan 14 06:38:31 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Springs in the yoke
  Dave: I have done this to reduce driveline clunk, and once when I forgot to install the C Clip on the output shaft of an A4LD (worked well) Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Fri Jan 14 12:55:49 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Springs in the yoke
  This was a trick one guy used at the dealer I worked at to cure the bump after taking off from a stop. I have even seen superballs in them. I wouldn't replace or reuse them, I did have one transfer case torn up that I felt was caused by having springs in it. I think they were using valve springs.

  Cliff Westendorp
  cwestendorp@msn.com

FIX;

David Foster
transtech@metrolink.net

PROBLEM/FIX:

Problem/Fix: How many of you use flat washers between flex plate and TC? How many have actually measured a batch of 'typical' 3/8" flat washers for thickness? I've been checking them before use, I find them from 0.060 all the way to 0.082......which makes me wonder if maybe some converter run-out problems are from this source. If anyone wants to discuss it further, I guess we won't get thwacked TOO hard if we take it to -2.

Gary Glaenzer
debngary@irtc.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: 105,000

Repair History: overhaul on 9-11-99

Work Completed: removed and disassemble

Summary: hello all i built this unit on 9-11-99 and came in today with 1st gear only. removed and desassembled found the band burn't and also 3-4 clutches. looks like it took some time to burn them up. any ideas the rest of the trans looks good. has about 3000 miles since i did the trans thanks terry..........

Terry Neuendorf
qualitytrans@earthlink.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Mon Jan 10 20:09:13 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, burnt band and 3-4 clutch
  Terry: I always remove the check ball capsule out of 2nd servo case casting and replace with a cup plug. That capsule is a lunch eater. Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Mon Jan 10 20:37:43 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, burnt band and 3-4 clutch
  Terry, I would guess that you have a leak in the 3rd accumulator checkball and capsule in the servo. Pressure is leaking into the case because the ball is not seating properly. Remove the ball and capsule and replace it with a parking pawl plug for a TH 350 or Th 400 and be sure to drive it all the way down into the case side of the servo. This is a common problem with this trans.You can also drill a .093 hole for band release as per the ATSG Bulletin. This will help get the band off faster.

  Donald Stone
  aaatrans@treco.net

• Date: Mon Jan 10 21:13:11 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, burnt band and 3-4 clutch
  Terry: That's been a common problem in the 700s. I had a lot of the 700s during the mid to late 80s do the same thing to me. The first thing that pops in my head is TV set too low. The second thing that pops in my head is to install a TransGo Shift Kit, but a leaking checkball capsule in the case will cause the same thing. If you already have it out, I would do both. Some builders like the commercial 9-pack clutch set up. My experience has been that if either the band's hydraulic circuit has a problem, or the 3-4 clutch circuit has a problem, they both go. This is because the same pressure that applies the 3-4 clutch in 3rd, pushes the 2-4 band off in 3rd. Since I've been using TransGo's Shift Kits, replacing checkball capsules when questionable, and using the 9-pack clutch, I haven't had any problems in the 3-4 clutch/2-4 band area. A Camaro is pretty light vehicle and they typically don't do a lot of towing. I don't think the cause of failure could be attributed to driver abuse. After you're done and on the final road test, make sure you can get a 2-1 downshift. If you can't, then you have a TV/Throttle cable relationship (adjustment) problem. If you can get a 2-1, then the TV is right. Good luck.

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

• Date: Mon Jan 10 23:43:36 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, burnt band and 3-4 clutch
  Terry, I had one to do this to me last year. When I disassembled it, I found that I had put a solid teflon ring on the 4th apply piston. I didn't know when I built it that there was a problem since it was in the kit and I had no choice but to use it. When I put the kit in the sealing ring fit the piston and inside the bore tight. When I disassembled it, the piston and ring fell out without any resistance. My thoughts are: The band went first and filled the filter with material and the plugged filter took out the 3-4 clutches. If you haven't already, cut the filter open and see if it is plugged. I put a pressure gauge on each unit I install and have a chart printed to write them down on. Then when I road test it, I write down the minimum shift speeds and the max shift speeds up to 3rd gear. I staple the pressure chart and shift speed points to the hard copy and file it away. If the trans comes back I know what it was doing when it left and it gives me an idea as to where the problem may be. Good luck.

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

• Date: Tue Jan 11 01:45:45 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, burnt band and 3-4 clutch
  Hi Terry, To repeat what others have said, I would recommend the TransGo Shift Kit (JR). That is one of the main complaints that the kit addresses. Also, a leaking 3rd accum check valve can cause this. I usually just tap it down lightly after I clean the bal out to make sure it is seated but you could have a spec of rust or dirt in there now causing this. I don't like to do the cup plug deal only because I asked TransGo about it in the '80's and they were concerned about trapped air possible causing a problem. That being said, I've worked at a shop for years where that was standard procedure and I can't say for sure if the CB's with burned band/3-4's was caused by that. Make sure you follow the instructions on adjusting TV and don't do the Max cable/floor the peddle deal. That just bends things and makes it worse.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  transfixleo@netscape.net

• Date: Tue Jan 11 06:08:21 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, burnt band and 3-4 clutch
  Yes I would say check the capsule in the case. Richard Randleas

  Richard Randleas
  rrandlea@gwtc.net

• Date: Tue Jan 11 09:25:44 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, burnt band and 3-4 clutch
  Terry- The ck.ball capsule in the case will cause this if it is leaking.Two other areas that you might want to inspect would be the accumulator piston pin holes(egg-shaped),and the stator shaft sleeve.If it has rotated,it will cause a burnt 2-4 band and burnt 3-4 clutches.I have not experienced a stator problem like this in quite some time,but it used to be fairly common.Almost every 700 that uses accumulator piston with rubber seals have the pin bores worn. Hope this helps. Cowbell

  Joey Campbell
  bccampbe@neocom.net

• Date: Tue Jan 11 09:40:48 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, burnt band and 3-4 clutch
  i agree with Don Stone , glenn a&s trans

  Glenn Morse
  tranny1@aol.com

FIX;

Terry Neuendorf
qualitytrans@earthlink.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: 80k

Repair History: none by me, someone had overhauled it before, but cooler was plugged solid.

Work Completed: works good, used big Tru-Cool instead of radiator cooler

Summary: Just wondering about overfilling 700's. Can't recall ever seeing the subject discussed. Anyone have any thoughts?

Gary Glaenzer
debngary@irtc.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Fri Jan 14 17:08:54 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, overhauled
  Hi Gary, I have never seen any reason to overfill a 700. But if you do be sure to add a hose to the vent and secure it over the trans on the drivers side so if it vents it does not spew onto the exhaust.

  David Foster
  transtech@metrolink.net

• Date: Fri Jan 14 19:24:55 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, overhauled
  Gary, I overfill everyone 1 to 2 inches (Cold). Been doing it forever, lets keep those planets in the oil. Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Fri Jan 14 20:37:18 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, overhauled
  Gary, I am like you, I can't see any advantage of putting springs in a driveline... unless someone wanted to make the trans self destruct earlier than it could on it's own. Seems to me the load on the rear shaft would reek havock on the thrust washers. Just like building a trans with no endplay. I haven't seen one with them in and I wouldn't put them back in. Take care.

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

FIX;

Gary Glaenzer
debngary@irtc.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: 80k

Repair History: none by me

Work Completed: decided to seek info before tackling this one

Summary: This truck has a 3" suspension lift. Owner states that he has put 4 sets of dront axles in it in 15 months...they either 'pop' out of the retainer, or pull the CV joints apart. Any cure, except to take out the lift? BTW, the 'lift job' was kind of done 'half-way'......lower arms were not replaced, just the uppers.

Gary Glaenzer
debngary@irtc.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Thu Jan 27 18:46:14 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, front axles 'pop out'
  G, My thoughts, STAY AWAY. You are going to be looking for trouble on this one. Obviously, this is not a professional lift job. If this guy didn't want to spend the money on having a quality lift job done by professionals, do you think he's going to pay you for your time to get his axles right? You are going to do a lot of work on this only to cause yourself a lot of pain. I would send this one to a 4X4 shop. The wrong geometry brought about by a poor lift job means you will never get the axles to stay. Those 4X4 boys see that kind of stuff all the time. Just my thoughts.. Fernando Transmission Physicians Tampa, FL

  Fernando Rosales
  surflobstr@aol.com

• Date: Thu Jan 27 18:52:33 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, front axles 'pop out'
  I agree with Fernando. Some jobs are better sent down the road, unless you want to live with them forever. The "I can fix anything" mentality is tough to ignore sometimes, but this is one time you probably should let someone else worry with the problem. JMO

  Dale Snyder
  dalesnip@cs.com

• Date: Thu Jan 27 19:03:01 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, front axles 'pop out'
  Fernando and Dale; He is willing to spend what it would take to make it right.......but the 'poped' left axle has already torn up the seal area of the front diff. I think he's ready to take the lift out, but told him I'd investigate making it work. What's the trick? Longer axles? Drop the diff? G

  Gary Glaenzer
  debngary@irtc.net

• Date: Thu Jan 27 19:05:18 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, front axles 'pop out'
  Forgot to say that he bought the truck with this problem 'built in'. He KNOWS that it is not right, and is willing to pay to make it right, if possible.

  Gary Glaenzer
  debngary@irtc.net

FIX;

Gary Glaenzer
debngary@irtc.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: 108K

Repair History: N/A

Work Completed: Tear Down

Summary: Question. This vehicle has oversized tires and 4" lift kit. Input planet destroyed and ring gear split in two places. My question is what causes this. I have not seen it happen in years. Am I dealing with abuse or what. Thanks, Jim, III

Jim III
stardust@frontiernet.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Tue Feb 1 11:19:37 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Broken input planet & ring gear
  Jim III, You answered that for your self. Tires, lift kit, ABUSE!!!! Good luck. Get alot of money for this one.!!!!!!

  Paul Moore
  n8249b@aol.com

• Date: Tue Feb 1 11:26:53 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Broken input planet & ring gear
  JimIII, When I get a vehicle in with a set up like this, the first thing I look at is the Diff. gears, if they are stock than the setup will cause all kinds of problems. So if your going to warrant something like that he needs to know the Diff. gears need to be changed to take on the load of the tires and the lift kit.

  Steve Allbee
  steve@customtrans.com

FIX;

Jim III
stardust@frontiernet.net

QUESTION:

Mileage:

Repair History: Rebuildt trans.

Work Completed: Cannot get power to Trans. electrical conn. Cked. wires, fuses, brake switches, new lock up relay under dash.

Summary: Need wire diagram showing lock up system, seems like the lock up relay is not getting grounded. Where to from here?

Leo Weber
alextran@rea-alp.com

RESPONSES;

• Date: Tue Jan 18 10:57:57 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No Lock Up
  Leo,does this unit have a vacuum relay in the engine compartment?CJ of Canada

  CJ of-Canada
  info@transtechca.com

• Date: Tue Jan 18 14:17:36 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No Lock Up
  Cannot find a vacume relay under hood, has a electric relay under dash by steering colume, but thats new. On that three wire connector under vac booster,I have power to one wire with brake off, but none with cracked throttle or power on. Thanks.

  Leo Weber
  alextran@rea-alp.com

• Date: Tue Jan 18 17:29:34 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No Lock Up
  Leo, You have to check the power to these with the key on and throttle opened partly. These old 6.2's used a switch on the side of the injection pump to cut the power to the A terminal of the case connector at closed throttle and again at wide open throttle. It is the almost identical to the VRV's used on the 5.7 and 6.2 diesels with a 350 or 400 transmission except for the absence of vacuum lines. It is on the passenger side of the injection punp and held on with two small bolts. I have seen many of these fail in the past and on higher milage ones, I have seen the wiring harness insulation oil-soaked and bare spots shorting out so take a close look at it. If I remember right there were two connectors out of the harness. To find the right wire, disconnect both connectors at the top and the transmission harness and use an ohmmeter to identify the wire corresponding to the A terminal at the trans case connector harness and one of the upper two connectors,harness side. If you get continuity between it and ONE of the top wires then that is the power ( B+ ) wire for the TCC. Reconnect all the connectors and then test the identified wire with a test light or voltmeter. When working properly it should be hot with key on and the throttle opened slightly and go off again at WOT. If no voltage there then check the other wires in the same connector for a wire that is hot until the brake pedal is pressed. That will be the power to the switch for TCC. If that is present then the switch is bad and you will have to replace it. Sorry if I don't remember all the details exactly but it has been a very long time since I have had to mess with one of these old diesels but to the best of my memory this is correct. I used to have one of them switches around here somewhere so if I can find it maybe I can reply again and clarify more. Hope this helps and sorry for the long post.

  Robert Bruce
  robertlb@ev1.net

• Date: Tue Jan 18 17:55:59 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No Lock Up
  Leo-Have you checked the "rotary switch"on the injector pump?Also,if memory is correct,there is a switch located on the right side engine head/block that will inhibit lock-up on early G.M. diesels. Hope this helps. Cowbell

  Joey Campbell
  bccampbe@neocom.net

• Date: Tue Jan 18 18:07:19 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No Lock Up
  Hey Leo The one I did was same vehicle only 84,but it was diesel, go to the injector pump,when you crack throttle you need 12v on the frt wire,at least it was frt on the one I did. That 12v will pass through that three wire connector.I don't have a book just trace wires down.At the connector there will be one live key on,and one live with throttle cracked. The other one is supply to trans for lu.Check both sides of connector,I had to clean the poop out of it to get 12v on both sides.Did you check the gray wires at brake sw. Should have power both until you depress brake. On mine there was a relay at rear of intake like on a carb job,I installed vac pump on the engine to get it to work but it did not seem to effect lu line at all.Must have power when throttle is cracked.See Ya Harold

  Harold Field
  trblshtr@tdstelme.net

• Date: Tue Jan 18 18:15:01 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No Lock Up
  The switch ( located on the right side engine head/block ) that cowbell is refering to, I believe is the ' High Vacuum Switch ' that was only used on the 5.7 diesels without poppet valve type torque convertors. Also the diesel engines did not use vacuum switch located above the brake booster, that was on gas engines only.

  Robert Bruce
  robertlb@ev1.net

• Date: Tue Jan 18 20:21:04 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No Lock Up
  Leo, Way back in 82 we had many problems with these diesels and no lock-up due to many reasons. The easiest way to get lock-up is to do it in the valve body. Install a GM part # 8642970 valve kit ( A74741VH ATC Number )in the valve body and the put a checkball into the snout of the TCC Soleniod. This should give you a hydraulic lock-up at about 50 MPH and if you want it lower you can clip a coil or 2 off the new valve spring that comes in the 8642970 kit. Believe me it works great and you will not need any 12 volt power supply to the trans.

  Donald Stone
  aaatrans@treco.net

• Date: Tue Jan 18 20:32:18 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No Lock Up
  Leo, I would go to the injector pump and check for voltage on the green or blue wire at the TCC cutout switch. Don't worry with the other wires (yellow etc) as they are for the EGR system. This switch disables TCC at an idle and at WOT I think. So to test it turn the key on, and see if either the blue or green wire is hot with the throttle at say 1/3 throttle. The reason I say check both wires is the switch can be plugged up either way on some applications. Really the light blue wire should be the wire from the brake switch and the green goes to the A wire on the trans. The part # of the switch is 14066239 (I think). It fails quite often. We would always check it 1st because it is so easy to get to. We have found that the best way to set this switch is to adjust it to have voltage going to the A wire at about 1/8 throttle. It is a simple circuit, but not in most manuals.

  Dan Tucker
  transman@prodigy.net

• Date: Tue Jan 18 22:56:45 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No Lock Up
  Leo: Convert the unit over to hydraulically controlled lockup and be done with this headache. Sometimes it's cheaper to eat your pride than to find out the actual cause of the prolblem.

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

• Date: Tue Jan 18 23:11:19 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No Lock Up
  Leo, If you look under the fuse panel, there should be a green wire with nothing connected to it. I have ran a b+wire to that connection and made them work. If nothing else works, you can put a TransGo® full shift kit in a 1982 and it will work for you. It comes with a ball that goes in the end of the tcc solenoid. The only problem you will find will be an engine kill on hard stop. Good hunting.

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

• Date: Tue Jan 18 23:29:00 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No Lock Up
  Leo, I just remembered something that may help. The "F" terminal in the ALDL connector is the tcc wire it makes it easier to check. Hope this helps.

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

• Date: Thu Jan 20 04:57:52 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No Lock Up
  Leo- The switch I was referring to is not the low-vacuum switch.It looks like a temp.sending unit,and I only remember seeing this on 2 or 3 early 6.2 diesels. Hope this helps Cowbell

  Joey Campbell
  bccampbe@neocom.net

FIX;

Leo Weber
alextran@rea-alp.com

QUESTION:

Mileage: mega

Repair History: none

Work Completed: none

Summary: customer wants to install a 700 Iam looking for a shaft that is shorter so his existing t-case will bolt up direct. I have cut and welded these before. just looking for a better deal. need a supplier.

Jeff Anglesey
oldtimer57@hotmail.com

RESPONSES;

• Date: Tue Dec 14 08:43:34 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, looking for shaft
  Jeff, I would have more faith in a spacer block between the case and adapter than cutting and welding the output shaft. Besides, I'm not sure there is that much spare room on the output shaft. Check out www.advancedadapter.com and order a catolog.

  Jimmy Taylor
  odie@gci.net

• Date: Tue Dec 14 10:49:53 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, looking for shaft
  Call American Eagle Tools at 602-966-5831 they make an output shaft for the 700 that is the same as the 350 4x4 shaft.

  Richard Smith
  mrtrans@worldnet.att.net

FIX;

Jeff Anglesey
oldtimer57@hotmail.com

QUESTION:

Mileage: 000

Repair History: install engine and rebuilt trans

Work Completed: none

Summary: I hope this thing hasn't gone in about 5 times, I am having quite a time to day. Any way to speak of this trans problem. no 4-2 or 3-2 after about 40mph. it will make a 4-3. this trans has a transco shift kit and a new s plate. has new pressure reg valve .500 tv boost valve. Iam thinking of stiffing up the tv valve spring. what about the tv limit valve? can some body help

Jeff Anglesey
oldtimer57@hotmail.com

RESPONSES;

• Date: Wed Jan 5 12:20:36 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, kick down problem
  Hi Jeff Your problem is the geometry between the throttle lever and the kick down ratio arm in the transmission. You will have to look at the site and there is some great feedback on how to get the correct "throw" on your detent cable. There have been alot of folks here, myself included, that have tried and tried to make it work but the geomertry is the problem. Basically, the throttle is moving at a different rate than the detent arm in the transmission. -- Kit Lindsay Lindsay Transmission 1111 South Maguire Warrensburg, MO 660 747 2272 or 800 875 4588 lindsay2@sprintmail.com lindsaytransmission.com Serving on TRNi with the industry's best shops --------------------------------------------------------

  Kit Lindsay
  lindsay2@sprintmail.com

• Date: Wed Jan 5 13:56:17 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, kick down problem
  Hi Jeff, As Kit said, The geometry is important. You need to have 3/4 inch space between the center of linkage throw and where the t.v. hooks up. If it has a Holley on it, Sonnax makes a piece to corect problem. Also playing with different govs. might help with your problem.

  John Lovell
  ent@crosslink.net

• Date: Wed Jan 5 14:41:24 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, kick down problem
  Hi Jeff, I think everyone nailed it with the points about the TV geometry. I would just like to add that you need to match everything to the vehicle to get the shift points right. What is the axle ratio? If it is low and you don't have the right governor the trans may 'think' it is going too fast for a kickdown. Also, you need the correct throttle valves for all of the shift valves to get the proper timing of your part throttle shifts, up and down, as well as some of the other 'mystery' valves. I don't think going up on the TV plunger spring will get you far. Whenever you do a custom transplant, building the trans is just the beginning and unless the owner is willing to manually shift when he wants to go fast then it won't matter who's VB kit you use.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  transfixleo@netscape.net

UPDATE:

Jeff Anglesey
oldtimer57@hotmail.com

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Wed Jan 5 16:01:22 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, kick down problem
  I think maybe you have the wrong valvebody gasket installed. It will cover an exhaust hole and drive you up the wall,,,,not to mention burn up the band if you keep trying to get it to work. Been there, done that,,, got the T-shirt! The hole I'm refering to is the little one next to the two check balls that are reight next to each other in the case.

  Darwin Upton
  darwank@usinternet.com

• Date: Wed Jan 5 16:42:51 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, kick down problem
  I left the detent downshift checkball out of one once and had a similar problem, if not the same, it has been many years ago.

  Frank Choate
  jfranklinc@aol.com

• Date: Wed Jan 5 17:09:19 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, kick down problem
  Jeff: We went through a similar problem about 6 months ago. Here's what we learned that can be checked without pulling the valve body: Make sure you can get a minimum throttle 2-1 downshift. If you can, forget the TV adjustment and the possible associated linkage geometry problem(s). That is the first step.--->Make sure you can get a 2-1. THEN: After discussing our problem at length with TransGo, we were 'tutored' to making secondary governor weight and governor spring changes to get our vehicle working correctly. Ours was a morphodite, jacked-up 4X4 truck with monster tires, 4.56 gears, and a Corvette LT-1 engine. What a nightmare. We spent more time getting the transmission calibrated correctly than we did R&R'ing and building the unit! What a deal. :-( A lot of the information you need is in TransGo's 700 lessons. You might want to check it out and give them a call. They got me out of a big-time bind. Let me know if I, or anybody else in the group, can be of help.

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

• Date: Wed Jan 5 18:37:01 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, kick down problem
  Jeff Late v.b. gaskets + early plate== no 3-2 or 4-2 kickdown, but will have 4-3 kickdown.

  Mike Quigley
  mikeq@netcom.ca

• Date: Wed Jan 5 22:16:16 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, kick down problem
  Jeff, If you left out or it moved while you where placing the front most checkball on the valve body side, you will loose your 3-2 and 4-2 downshift, just like what you are experiancing now. Also the MTV Down valve must be free. Oh and put a gauge on it too, find out what line pressure is doing.

  Jimmy Taylor
  odie@gci.net

FIX;

Jeff Anglesey
oldtimer57@hotmail.com

PROBLEM/FIX:

Problem/Fix: Here is the GM part # for the 3/8" cup plug that we use in the 2nd servo in place of the check ball capsule. For some reason our parts suppliers can never find it 8620318 Jim, III

Jim III
stardust@frontiernet.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: a lot

Repair History: other home worker "overhault" it about 1 year ago (has really unsatisfactory feeling, slipping, binding and all the other great feelings) first loss 3rd and 4th then come in for no move

Work Completed: found some mistakes of the home worker not related to this problem found broken rotor and slide and missing rotor guide pressure relief free to move TV boost ,391"

Summary: What can create the force to broken the rotor in 4 pieces and guide in two? Is it possible if the pump halfs are over torqued so the slide stucks? Thanks a lot in advance for all thinkings! Rosi germany

Falk Rossberg
falkrossberg@t-online.de

RESPONSES;

UPDATE:

Falk Rossberg
falkrossberg@t-online.de

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Mon Feb 7 18:09:28 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, broken pump rotor and slide
  Hi Rosi, This is common on 700R4s. In fact, I saw one just last week with the same damage. They parked the Blazer and when they started it and went to leave it wouldn't move. What I'm saying is there is usually no warning. As far as why it happens, I am sure someone else could give you better reasons. Transgo makes "no break" vane rings for the pump for high rpms. Also, I assume worn bushings, pump contamination, and converter runout contribute to the problem. In your case, I bet the customer was running high rpm's in second gear.

  Daniel Wills
  danwills@mindspring.com

FIX;

Falk Rossberg
falkrossberg@t-online.de

PROBLEM/FIX:

Problem/Fix: Hi group! In a lot of 700 I installed the 3-4commercial pack with good results. TCS recommend for me to use high capacity friction plates for this clutch pack. They tell that many rebuilder prefer it as a equal or better and cheaper 3-4 fix. What is your experience with this stuff? Thanks in advance to all. Rosi germany

Falk Rossberg
falkrossberg@t-online.de

QUESTION:

Mileage: lots

Repair History: This unit was installed a year ago by another shop, customer was told it was a 'GM rebuilt'.

Work Completed: Replaced with stock unit, vehicle is gone

Summary: OK.....I was dismantling this unit to rebuild for stock. Model stamp 9YL088 (??????) Other curiosities found during tear down: 1) three orificed cup plugs in (a) lo-rev piston feed; (b) governor return; (c) rear hole in 3/4 accum bore 2) small (light-weight) orange spring between servo cover and 4th piston 3) Check ball (5/16) in solenoid snout 4)It appears to have a transgo kit in the T.V. bore, can see the tiny spring at end of plunger. 5) trans-tec gaskets 6) unit has 'Type 5' wiring, which was wrong for the vehicle, but internal harness plug was unhooked. 7) early style input sprag. 8) no aux VB 9) small 'tit' of casting in the TV exhaust ball space (assume to prevent accidental installation of a ball there) I've already made the decision to scrap this case and VB (don't care to unravel puzzles )but just curious as to what brand shift kit may have used these mods. Or was this a 'factory reman', with the orificed plugs (but why are they in there???) The date-code stamp is identical in size and letter shape to a factory one, and there are remains of the original underneath (but not readable).

Gary Glaenzer
debngary@irtc.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Fri Feb 11 18:41:05 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, curious about this unit
  GG I rebuilt a 700 years ago that had the restricters in the gov feed hole and Lo/Rev hole. At the time I was rather new at rebuilding let alone rebuilding 700s, but I do recall them being there. Are the ones you are talking about aluminum sleeves that are pressed in? These were, and if I recall, mine had not been Shift Kitted. Hope this helps, have a good weekend:-)

  Don Oremus
  dkoremus@execpc.com

• Date: Fri Feb 11 18:48:35 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, curious about this unit
  Don; The restrictor wasn't in the gov FEED hole (the one that takes the screen, but in the return hole (nearest the side of the case). This is truly curious....why would they be there.......they are definitely after-market....it looks like they were put in with a 20 pound hammer and a 3/8" bolt as a driver......

  Gary Glaenzer
  debngary@irtc.net

• Date: Fri Feb 11 18:50:37 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, curious about this unit
  Gary, That model number is for a '82 model trans ( first year ). They had the tit in the TV exhaust ball space because the ball was not used in the first models. I seriously doubt that this was a GM rebuilt unit.

  Robert Bruce
  robertlb@ev1.net

• Date: Fri Feb 11 19:01:31 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, curious about this unit
  GG Come to think of it, this may have had the sleeves in both governor holes, it was way too long ago for me to remember. It was definately something strange, for I have not ran into it since, which is good since the one I did was and early unit unsure of year though. I believe these aluminum sleeves where somewhere around a half of an inch long, I think :-)

  Don Oremus
  dkoremus@execpc.com

• Date: Sat Feb 12 02:08:10 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, curious about this unit
  Hello Gary! The 5/16 check ball in solenoid snout is recommend from TransGo and furnished in it's SysKoKal Kit. It's a great thing (in my opinion). Even if the electrical system fails it will make the TCC able to work correctly. But don't install ball if VB has no bore #13 or aluminium plugs in it. You will end up with all time TCC. I've already seen tranny with # looks like yours stamped on a piece of sheet metal rivet to the left rear side of the case. Originaly code was grind down. Inside was complete equally to the ATSG manuals. I think this is very close to GM specs. In your case I suspecting a "modified" GM rebuild. What can be the reason to put a spring between 4th piston and servo cover. All for now. Rosi germany

  Falk Rossberg
  falkrossberg@t-online.de

FIX;

Gary Glaenzer
debngary@irtc.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: 230000KM

Repair History: none

Work Completed: only first & sec. gear / no engine braking

Summary: Is ther a particular reson for the hub to break abart from driver abuse. Theo from downunder

Theo Heindl
theobald@ozemail.com.au

RESPONSES;

• Date: Sun Feb 6 12:33:30 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Brocken overrun clutch hub
  Theo, if you are talking about the spline portion of the hub that the overrun clutches fit onto, then I would say premature failure. Either fatige or under tempered. I've never seen this portion broke before. If you are talking about the race being cracked or even broken in to multiple pieces, first thing that comes to mind is shifting into drive with high engine RPM's or while rolling backwards. Was the sprag flipped as well?

  Jimmy Taylor
  odie@gci.net

• Date: Sun Feb 6 12:36:45 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Brocken overrun clutch hub
  Hi Theo- I would think maybe the 200,000km's might have played a role in this failure. :-) How were the teeth on the input frictions?Maybe a slipping input sprag. Hope this helps Cowbell

  Joey Campbell
  bccampbe@neocom.net

• Date: Sun Feb 6 12:47:58 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Brocken overrun clutch hub
  Update The hub is broken where it splines to the sprag. The friction look burnt but not wiped. Just trying to establish the cause so it wan't become a CB. Theo from downunde

  Theo Heindl
  theobald@ozemail.com.au

• Date: Sun Feb 6 15:40:13 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Brocken overrun clutch hub
  Hey Theo, If the vehicle is operated in the OD position, the overrun hub will not do anything. As a matter of fact, you could leave it out and the customer would never know. I have only found one of these broken so far. It was on a Camaro that the guy would race and shift manually. There is one thing I think you might want to look into. If the person is driving this vehicle in the "3" position, the overruns will be on. When the trans shifts into third gear, if the band does not release, this will cause a bind in third and may eventually break the overrun hub. The only thing I can think of that will keep the band from releasing is a leak in the check ball capsule in the case. Personally, I cup plug all of the cases and throw away the capsule. I have never had a problem doing this and it's error proof as long as you put the cup plug way at the back of the case. If a bind in 3rd has been occurring, you will probably have burnt 3-4 clutches too. Other than a bind in 3rd with the shifter in the "3" position, I can see no possible way for the hub to break. It is never used while the selector is in OD. The only other thing I can think of is some kind of a cross leak occuring that would feed the overrun clutches in 4th. Overrun cannot be on in 4th. You may want to look inside the pump stator for wear. Leaking between the rings may cause this, although it's never happened to me. By the way, what is a Holden anyways? Where is it made? Fernando Transmission Physicians Tampa, FL

  Fernando Rosales
  surflobstr@aol.com

• Date: Sun Feb 6 16:42:58 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Brocken overrun clutch hub
  Theo, Fernando is correct in that the hub is only stressed when the overrun clutch is on. We see these hubs break in race car applications and we replace them with a heavy duty koline treated hub.

  Jim Eberhart
  eberhart@efortress.com

• Date: Sun Feb 6 23:41:21 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Brocken overrun clutch hub
  Hi Theo, How much power does that lil ole 3.8 have? Are you talking about the low overrun, or the coast overrun? I have seen abuse cause a lot of problems on 700's but never the coast overrun clutch hub. I suspect a faulty part here. However, I have seen several of the low overrun clutch hubs busted and the support and the case from abuse. Take care.

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

UPDATE:

Theo Heindl
theobald@ozemail.com.au

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Mon Feb 7 14:48:37 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Brocken overrun clutch hub
  Theo We have come across this problem quite a lot and to this day there seems to be no reason for this to happen maybe we in Australia are harder on vehicles then most. Formin our rebuild guy has fixed plenty and advised that this may not ever happen in the same vehicle again as to why we are still at the end of that dark automatic tunnell

  John Tate
  autots@tpgi.com.au

FIX;

Theo Heindl
theobald@ozemail.com.au

QUESTION:

Mileage: 20,000 km

Repair History: Customer (another shop) installed this 4cyl Perkins diesel & 700 trans, unit came in first time with improper TV arm ratio setup & trans smoked. Begged us to help him (my first mistake) we rebuilt trans & tv problem was corrected. All was well for 2ooo km & lost lockup.... fluid smelled. Pulled trans & clutches all ok, but TCC is burn't, repalced pump & installed lo stall torque & all was well again for 1500 km & guess what no TCC operation. I am not taking any responsibility for this mismatched set up, now he wants me to build it with no lockup. I have info from Steve Younger seminar years back on building "de-lock" 7oo unit. My question is has anyone done this & does it work ??. This engine is about 120 HP only rev's to 2400 rpm but has a very low power band, final drive is 3:73 ratio.

Work Completed: None

Summary: Will this setup work or are we setting ourselves up again, he had prevous vehicle basically same setup with 350 trans & drove it for 2 years but top speed was 80 km (50 mph).

Ken Buehler
kbuehler@freespace.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Tue Nov 30 21:10:03 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, Repeated TCC clutch failure
  Ken, You can bypass the lock-up on the 700 by installing the Transgo CCV-7 valve kit that you install in the pump and remove the converter clutch regulator valve.There are some warnings associated with the kit and it will explain it when you buy the kit.I have never had any problems installing the kit. This kit then opens up lube oil without having to obtain lock-up. I have done it on many racing 700's with no problem. As far as your problem with the converter burning up it would seem that you either have a problem with the pump cover, stator, cooler or an electrical problem that will not allow the lock-up solenoid to operate properly.

  Donald Stone
  aaatrans@treco.net

• Date: Tue Nov 30 22:21:55 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, Repeated TCC clutch failure
  Don: I've seen that no-lockup kit from TransGo. One of my guys ordered one and it has been sitting on the shelf for a long time. I've been afraid to use it because I have always associated a no-lockup condition in a 700 as a slow, sure death. Could you fill us in on how a street 700 can survive without lockup? I, as well as other members are interested. Thanks in advance.

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

• Date: Wed Dec 1 01:37:33 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, Repeated TCC clutch failure
  Hi Ken, TransGo does make a Non-lock valve for what you describe but I personally wouldn't use it for what you are trying to do. I would rather see you install the JR Shift Kit (or full) to address the TCC problem. Even though it has fairly low gears you will still be operating in the range and power band that will generate heat in the converter if it isn't locked up. You may be tradeing one failure for another. Leo

  Leo Schneggenburger
  transfixleo@netscape.net

• Date: Wed Dec 1 08:46:17 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, Repeated TCC clutch failure
  We have been building non-LU 700's since they first came out the "trick" is to use a converter that has a stall speed that is lower than the cruise rpm @60/70mph. That keeps the converter out of multiplication and very little heat. The manufacturers found that with a LU converter they can build a sloppy converter, loose tolerances etc. not be overly concerned about the stall because the efficency is gained back with the LU clutch applied. Also high/loose converters don't load the engines and they are easier to get to pass the emissions standsrds. It is possible that a vehicle with a lower than stock stall converter may not pass a smog test in states that use a loaded dyno to check emissions in CA. where we are at, they use dyno's I don't know if they use the loaded capabilitie or not.If you feel you have to use a converter with a LU clutch in this application, a low stall converter will help because the turbine speed and impeller/pump speed are closer and the stress is lower when the LU clutch comes on. Remove the check ball capsule from the front of the input shaft.

  Greg Boehm
  greg@valtran.com

• Date: Thu Dec 2 04:47:56 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, Repeated TCC clutch failure
  Larry, The idea of the CCV-7 kit is to open the lube curcuit thus relieving the overheating condition. In Gil's kit it says to remove the lock-up o-ring and use an original lock-up converter. We don't do that. We remove the checkball from the input shaft, leave off the o-ring as it is not needed and we install a torque converter without a clutch which most call a test torque. Basically we have full flow to the cooler all the time and I have never had one overheat yet even in Chevy Suburbans towing a race car 200 or more miles. If you contact Trans-Go they can fill you in on more info.

  Donald Stone
  aaatrans@treco.net

• Date: Thu Dec 2 22:47:13 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, Repeated TCC clutch failure
  Hi Ken, I am like the idea of omitting the lock-up clutch. In my limited experience, I have seen trucks that were overloaded severely loose lock-up. I would thing the load capacitie of the clutch is limited. Also the diesel could be hammering the dampner.

  Daniel Wills
  danwills@mindspring.com

FIX;

Ken Buehler
kbuehler@freespace.net

PROBLEM/FIX:

Problem/Fix: 77 CHEV Change over TH 350 to 700R4. The 700r4 that will be installed has a one wire lock up system. 1. Is there such a item as wiring torque converter lock up kit that can be installed, when making this kind of change over? 2. And Can someone tell me what to do or where I can get a wiring diagram? Thanks Walt

Walt's Trans
waltg@relia.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: new motor

Repair History: pulled unit complete rebuild, fades in and out of lock up on slightest incline.

Work Completed: pulled valve body, changed lockup spring, still does same thing. Also hydralickly locked. same thing. All electrical put back in and worked for a week, now i am back to square one.

Summary: has anyone ever had this problem and know of a fix? Please help having hard time with this one. Thanks, Justin jmpjdp@nque.com

Justin Painter
jmpjdp@nque.com

RESPONSES;

• Date: Fri Feb 25 03:00:45 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, will not hold in lock up on interstate,
  Hi justin, Only have 88 up 700s(with aux valve body)in Aust.I overhauled one a couple of weeks ago and used a Gil reprogramming kit(NoYoYo/SysKoKaL Kit)one of the many things it fixes is the lock up jumping out to easy and lock up to early.I remember that for non aux valve bodies pre 88 you could modify the lock up so it was not dependant on the electrics ,you actually plug the lock up solenoid with a ball so it does not work and then do other mods. There was also some mods for diesels powered vehicles.There's quite a few choices depending on the application regarding valve body springs/governor springs etc but it is easy to install.I was happy with the improvements it made to the unit I overhauled.I think I payed about $100 for the kit (aussie money)properly about $25 in your land.Hope this helps you out. Regards Kim PS SK700-D was the part No

  Kim Walton
  citytrans@webscene.com.au

• Date: Fri Feb 25 10:24:25 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, will not hold in lock up on interstate,
  Hello Justin! I would give the tranny a converter clutch TV valve with a smaller working diameter for the mod up TV. Other thing is making the spring from the tv up valve little heavier. But the second thing will also change the shift timing of the gears. I didn`t believe that can fix your problem with the TCC spring. The early units have lot timing problems and a SysKoKal kit will fix it. What think other members about this? Good luck! please give me info if you try it.

  Falk Rossberg
  falkrossberg@t-online.de

FIX;

Justin Painter
jmpjdp@nque.com

QUESTION:

Mileage: 331,000

Repair History: rebuilt about 2500 miles back all upshifts are good and at the right time

Work Completed: coming back wed.

Summary: around 70 -80 mph if you accelerate fairly hard it will shift back and forth between 4th and 3rd. It will keep doing this until you let off or kick it all the way down. Has anyone run into this before? Thanks Archie

Arch Haymaker
archie@ionet.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Mon Mar 13 19:26:47 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, shifts4-3 4-3 4-3
  Arch, Ran into this many times and changing the governor fixed it. Be sure to check your governor bore as well.

  Donald Stone
  aaatrans@treco.net

• Date: Mon Mar 13 20:28:50 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, shifts4-3 4-3 4-3
  Hi Arch, I think I would look at the gov gear on this one. If it is loose, it could cause what you are describing. Just guessing.

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

• Date: Mon Mar 13 21:33:00 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, shifts4-3 4-3 4-3
  Arch. If the governor checks out ok, try either a Transgo or Fairbanks 3-4 full throttle upshift valve.

  Jim Eberhart
  eberhart@efortress.com

• Date: Tue Mar 14 05:31:53 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, shifts4-3 4-3 4-3
  Hi Arch There is a procedure for drilling the throttle sleeve and plugging an existing hole to move the oil feed to a different location and I did it once to a Blazer that was doing the same thing yours is doing. I have been looking for the paper with the pix on it but I can't find it. If you post me your fax number I will send it to you as soon as I locate it. Kit

  Kit Lindsay
  lindsay2@sprintmail.com

• Date: Tue Mar 14 11:10:03 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, shifts4-3 4-3 4-3
  Hi Arch I have the info you want. Send me your fax number. Thanks! -- Kit Lindsay Lindsay Transmission 1111 South Maguire Warrensburg, MO 660 747 2272 or 800 875 4588 lindsay2@sprintmail.com lindsaytransmission.com Serving on TRNi with the industry's best shops --------------------------------------------------------

  Kit Lindsay
  lindsay2@sprintmail.com

FIX;

Arch Haymaker
archie@ionet.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: 150,000

Repair History: Rebuilt about a year ago. Normal rebuild.

Work Completed: Came back with the inner low/rev sprag race broke, rear carrier broke, metal, etc. Rebuilt, pressure tested, new pump, converter, etc. Has a delay in rev.

Summary: We have a 1988 full size Chevy with a 4l60 (700-R4). Came in (came back rather) with the rev sprag, rear carrier, etc. broke. We rebuilt it. After we rebuilt it there was a slight delay in rev and when you accelerated rapidly, it would bang in. Like maybe one unit is not applying at first. We seem to have no rev boost at idle. At 1000 RPM pressures are normal. Min and max TV pressures good. It's just at idle that we do not have any rev boost. We have replaced the pump with one that has a .030" larger TV boost valve and a .010" larger rev boost valve. Pump rotor to face clearance is about .002" versus .005" in the old pump. New pump even has an inner pump spring where the old one didn't. We thought all this would fix it but nooo. We just don't have any boost at idle. At 1000 RPM all is ok. Idle speed is 500 in drive. Is that normal? Any ideas? Thanks,

Dell Wellons
woodchpr@worldnet.att.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Wed Mar 15 17:24:01 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Delays in Rev - no boost at idle
  Hi Dell, Unless the pump is spectacular, 500 RPM isn't enough. Send the readings (all) at: idle, fast idle (12-1500), and fast idle with max TV. preferably cold and hot. Do you have an aluminum piston in rev? If so, do you have an orifice in the piston? How much clearance in the packs? Does it happen when cold too? How does it operate otherwise?

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Wed Mar 15 18:02:01 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Delays in Rev - no boost at idle
  Hi Dell, I would speed up the idle so you are around 750 to 800 RPM in gear. At 500 the pump volume might be to low to give you any boost pressure. Also when you replaced the pump you didn't by chance use a stator with the wrong size apply hole for the reverse input drum did you. If your stator and the reverse input drum both have the small apply hole I would think that this could cause what you are experiencing.

  David Foster
  transtech@metrolink.net

• Date: Wed Mar 15 18:43:07 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Delays in Rev - no boost at idle
  I agree that 500 RPM isn't enough, but since it's computer controlled I'm not sure I should attempt to change it unless I know for sure what it should be. Leo, I don't have all the readings. I'm at home now, but best that I can remember at 1000 RPMs all pressures were normal at max TV and min TV in all ranges, i.e. PRNDL2 etc. It's only at idle that there is no rev boost. Yes it is an aluminum piston. I'm not sure about the orifice. That is my next step. Clutch clearance is good. Cold, it works great and all other shifts are great. Dave, I'm not sure I can get by with cranking the idle up to 800 RPMs. Although, I'd like to. Thinking about going to the old style rev input piston, elinimating the orifice deal, using solid sealing rings, etc. Not sure about the orifice in the stator support, but the one we took out had the large hole. Thanks. We'll look for more tomorrow.

  Dell Wellons
  woodchpr@worldnet.att.net

• Date: Wed Mar 15 18:51:32 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Delays in Rev - no boost at idle
  do you have a miss match of feed holes drum to stator cant have two small holes one or the other has to be a big hole otherwise rev input clutches dont come on till you rev motor, assuming this isnt a 1993 model which has rev orifice and checkball in vbody and plate instead.........

  Donald Day
  trnsmaster@home.com

• Date: Wed Mar 15 21:01:53 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Delays in Rev - no boost at idle
  Dell, This sounds like the wrong pump / Reverse Input drum combination. The '88 model had a small feed hole in the Reverse Input drum and a large feed hole in the pump stator. Like the others have said, if you changed the pump to one with a small hole then it would not supply enough volume of fluid to feed the small hole in the drum with enough fluid to overcome the bleed hole in the aluminum piston. There is an orficed cup plug availabe from most parts suppliers that will reduce the size of the bleed hole also. They come in bags of 10 so be careful if ordering. We wanted 20 and ended up with 200 the first time we ordered them. Just for reference there are three different combinations: 1. The early reverse input drums with a steel piston has a large square feed hole / small hole in pump tower. 2. The 87 up reverse input drums with an aluminum piston has a small round feed hole / large hole in pump tower. This drum was used in the early 4L60E's also. 3. The later 4L60E reverse input drum with an aluminum piston has a large square hole / small hole in pump tower. They will interchange fairly well as long as you keep the feed holes in the pump tower and rev drum matched properly. Big to small or Small to big. I hope this helps.

  Robert Bruce
  robertlb@ev1.net

• Date: Thu Mar 16 01:30:04 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Delays in Rev - no boost at idle
  Hi Dell, That was a good point about the size of the orifice in the stator. Good place to look. As to idle setting, don't just crank up the base idle screw unless you are sure that the idle speed control (ISC)is set right. This is done by fully extending it and setting to spec (usually @900RPM) and then fully retracting it and setting the base idle screw to about what it is now. Perhaps the ISC is bad? I used to see it occasionally at the dealer. If you find that for example the stator fixes the delay, I would just advise the customer to have it properly set elsewhere.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Thu Mar 16 03:57:02 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Delays in Rev - no boost at idle
  Hi Leo, Isn't the ISC just a controlled vacuum leak? ( More leak faster idle ) Why not get the idle set first even if you have to pull off a vacuum line temporary, to see if the problem with reverse is gone. That would be a lot faster than pulling the unit. If the idle is set ( by Jury Rig ) and the trans works, just take it to a general repair shop to have the ISC checked out. ( JMO )

  David Foster
  transtech@metrolink.net

• Date: Thu Mar 16 07:34:27 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Delays in Rev - no boost at idle
  dell, I checked the spec book and curb idle speed for a 5.0l is 500 rpm with parking brake set in drive.I think you need to be addressing your no boost in rev.

  Ron Geddert
  dadstran@home.com

FIX;

Dell Wellons
woodchpr@worldnet.att.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: ?

Repair History: Overhaul in progres

Work Completed: n/a

Summary: I have ATSG manual, they recommend reducing size of bleed orifice in piston, they say with "Techpack" p/n 77761c. I can't get one of these here in Denmark !! But what size is the orifice after modification ?? I will plug it and then drill !!

Bent Pedersen
blp@post7.tele.dk

RESPONSES;

• Date: Sat Mar 18 11:24:25 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Reverse input piston mod.
  Bent; ATSG recommends drilling and tapping the original bleed hole for a set-screw. Opposite this hole is one that doesn't go all the way through. Drill this one 1/16" 0.062".

  Gary Glaenzer
  debngary@irtc.net

FIX;

Bent Pedersen
blp@post7.tele.dk

PROBLEM/FIX:

Problem/Fix: Awhile back there was questions about the size of the orifice plug. For years I have been using delco #86311146 & nothing else just install & forget it.

Jeff Balak
kdhtrans55@aol.com

QUESTION:

Mileage: unknown

Repair History: Hi group! The car was factory equipped with the 700R4. Someone have taken a swap to 400. Looks like professional job.

Work Completed: The 400 is now worn out and the customer wants to get the original tranny. To do this I have a 700 in stock. Came out a 305" from ´87. plate AA, auxl.body, last steel reverse input piston

Summary: What changes in tranny and also in car must be taken to make the swap also a professional job. (Will install TransGo syskocal kit, alto 3-4 commercial, band kevlar) Any suggestion would be nice. Thanks and best regards Rosi germany

Falk Rossberg
falkrossberg@t-online.de

RESPONSES;

• Date: Sat Dec 11 08:07:16 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, swap TH400 to 700R4
  I would find a diesel gov. for it.

  John Lovell
  ent@crosslink.net

• Date: Sat Dec 11 22:27:05 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, swap TH400 to 700R4
  Falk, I would remove the aluminum plug in the TCC shift valve line up, and install a bushing, valve, spring, and shift valve in it's place. If you leave the bushing in it will apply TCC as soon as you hit 2nd gear. You will also need to remove the Vacuum regulator switch on the injector pump and replace it with the factory TCC CUTOUT SWITCH (14066239).

  Dan Tucker
  transman@prodigy.net

• Date: Sat Dec 11 22:28:54 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, swap TH400 to 700R4
  Falk, You will also need to ground the TCC solenoid "D" wire in the pan.

  Dan Tucker
  transman@prodigy.net

• Date: Tue Dec 14 15:44:41 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, swap TH400 to 700R4
  Hi Falk, The others seem to be covering everything pretty well. I would suggest not using a kevlar band, though. A good used paper band would be your best bet. Leo

  Leo Schneggenburger
  transfixleo@netscape.net

FIX;

Falk Rossberg
falkrossberg@t-online.de

QUESTION:

Mileage: 80000

Repair History: none, at another shop that I do plenty of work for.

Work Completed: replaced shift cable, frayed. disconnect wiring and drives fine. turn off cruise control and converter works fine. as soon as you turn the cruise on the converter goes in and out until you let up on throttle or take out the cruise, will do this at any speed, seems to do it worse at higher speed. Does have a code for EGR.

Summary: could this be a ground problem? Faulty cruise.

Steve Allbee
steve@customtrans.com

RESPONSES;

• Date: Fri Mar 10 12:59:47 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, converter clutch shuddle w/cruise on
  Hi Steve, Read the old post in feedback > In and out of L/U < under the 700 section. I fought one similar to yours, never did fix it ( sorry ) But there is a lot of feedback on the data base. Is this factory or aftermarket cruise?

  David Foster
  transtech@metrolink.net

FIX;

Steve Allbee
steve@customtrans.com

QUESTION:

Mileage: unknown

Repair History: 2 yrs on rebuild

Work Completed: tore down for inspection due to metalic fluid,would make a nice paint color.

Summary: Was wondering what causes the sun shell and rev drum tabs to spread apart scraping case. Any Ideas? Thanks Joe

Joe Zahn
rjzahn@usaor.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Sun Nov 21 13:00:59 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, no shift due to striped gov. gear
  Joe: It may be a bad input sprag. They can check good on the bench, but not hold in the vehicle. When this happens, you most often experience a 4-neutral condition on kickdown. Sand the inner and outer races. Replace the sprag. (Not to mention the drum/shell) It's a done deal.

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

• Date: Sun Nov 21 13:06:48 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, no shift due to striped gov. gear
  Joe, What you are seeing is the classic input sprag failure. It happens when you get a 4-3 or 4-2 part or full throttle downshift and the sprag fails to re-apply. Causes are either worn sprag elements or the elements gliding on fluid. The former requires a simple replacement, the latter can need a little more attention. The old sprags used a smooth surface on the races where the sprag rides. The later races have very fine grooves cut into the face. The grooves are there to provide a track for the fluid to move through and allow the sprag to apply. You can take 180 - 200 sand paper and sand the outer race to make your older sprags work like the newer ones. Often just changing the sprag is all you need to do.

  Jimmy Taylor
  odie@gci.net

• Date: Sun Nov 21 13:38:21 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, no shift due to striped gov. gear
  Joe, no definative answer has never show up for the spreading problem. Everyonce in a blue moon it just shows up.. If you have silver paint fluid, please change the torque converter. Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Sun Nov 21 15:07:01 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, no shift due to striped gov. gear
  Joe, Sounds like classic abuse to me. Does it belong to a kid. That does not imply age. Good luck.

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

• Date: Thu Nov 25 07:48:08 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, no shift due to striped gov. gear
  Hi Joe- My bet is the input sprag is bad.2.8's seem to have this problem more frequently than other engines w/700-R4...JMO Hope this helps Cowbell

  Joey Campbell
  bccampbe@neocom.net

• Date: Tue Nov 30 17:53:24 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, no shift due to striped gov. gear
  Joe Don`t know if this will help or make any sense but I`ve noticed drum & shell spread usually occurs on trans with high stall convertors & input sprags that break break loose at high RPMS. As in S10 ? maybe centrifugal force? Is that 2.8 instead of 3.8?

  Barrie Bowlin
  bowlinauto@webtv.net

FIX;

Joe Zahn
rjzahn@usaor.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: lots

Repair History: rebuilt 6yrs ago, burned 3-4s

Work Completed: fresh overhaul

Summary: Fix data base talks about new throttle valves and sleeves curing this concern, any ideas or fixes? thank you ..Joe

Joe Zahn
rjzahn@usaor.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Thu Jan 6 16:13:50 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, early 1-2 shift
  Hi Joe, The early 700's had horrible shift timing. Get a TransGo Shift Kit, the full one not the JR. It will fix the timing problems as well as keep the clutches and band alive longer. You will love how it works.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  transfixleo@netscape.net

• Date: Thu Jan 6 20:46:31 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, early 1-2 shift
  Joe, Put weaker springs in the gov. The rest of the shifts may be taylored with the tv cable. Good luck,

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

• Date: Fri Jan 7 04:51:20 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, early 1-2 shift
  I'm with leo on this one. what we used to do on these was to make the 1-2 shift valve retainor pin accesable from the out side of the valve-body...then find a slightly heavier spring for the 1-2 shift valve and try it...if it still needed tweaking drop the pan pull the pin and try another spring. or just wimp out and put a shift kit in it. good luck Timmy

  Timothy Carney
  timjames@prodigy.net

• Date: Fri Jan 7 05:30:45 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, early 1-2 shift
  Hey Joe I don't know about full blown SK,but I use the JR and it really does a good job,real nice shifts at all ranges,I was alittle hesitant about the fix on the sec piston and leaving out the lock ringon the first one,just do it.I also make sure I get the clearence down on the clutch paks. Have a nice day, See Ya Harold

  Harold Field
  trblshtr@tdstelme.net

• Date: Fri Jan 7 06:39:24 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, early 1-2 shift
  Joe, I just finished a 700 in a suburban a week ago and it cost plenty, but to do these right you need to put in some parts, on a 700 I've never got away without a new rev input drum always warped, I put in the .500 boost sleeve and 10 vane pump. I always put in a sk jr kit, and you might want to call the dealer and make sure you have the right spacer plate, the diesel model I worked on last week had the wrong one along with the converter sol. I always put the 2-4 band as tight as I can get it, I add to the band pin (weld it) to a measurement of 5.10(I think), I'm at home so I don't have the info in front of me. But you should have a band movement of around .060. When you say early 1-2 shift, tell us what it is.

  Steve Allbee
  steve@customtrans.com

• Date: Fri Jan 7 06:47:28 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, early 1-2 shift
  Hi Joe, You can address this by going to the governor springs to reset shift speed as mentioned, or try a lighter spring in the 1/2 shift valve, yes there is a larger boost valve available and we always install the .471 O.D. boost valve/sleeve kits part no. k61976c (ATC). Some have mentioned using the transgo kit both the complete kit k61908 or the Jr kit k61908j we use both. The larger kit for early units up to about 1985 and the Jr kit for later units along with the larger boost valve. We also install the sonnix servo release check valve. This may all seem like a lot and I saw earlier that some one called it whimpping out to use a valve body kit, but I have a personal opinion on this. I have been in shops where every one is to themselves as to what they do on each type rebuild and I have seen no consistancy on the finished product. If my name is going to be on a product I want it to be the way I think it aught to be. With all the varaibles out there in this game and with everyone and their uncle working on these things before you get it in your shop, you better set some standards for each type of transmission that comes into the shop. I even check all the important holes in the seperator plates to make sure no one has used a post hole digger to strengthen up a soft shift.JMO Richard Randleas Randleas Transmissions

  Richard Randleas
  rrandlea@gwtc.net

• Date: Fri Jan 7 11:07:17 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, early 1-2 shift
  Joe, Try this -take your govenor, remove the gear,drill a 3/16 hole at the end put a 200 govenor spring in the hole so that the valve rests on it ,put the gear back on and install it.Not only will it make the 1-2 a little later,but you also fix a down shift clunk.CJ of Canada

  CJ of-Canada
  info@transtechca.com

• Date: Fri Jan 7 14:48:06 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, early 1-2 shift
  Joe, what you are probably feeling is a normal 2nd upshift around 8-10 mph.A 83 700r4 locks up normally after the 2nd shift, unless you have added a lockup valve kit, which will make it lockup after 3rd. 3rd gear comes in normally around 25-27 mph. solution 1 - It may not be locking up. solution 2 - clip 1 to 2 coils off the 2-3 shift spring to lower 2-3 shift.

  Jimmy Newman
  cttranny@aol.com

FIX;

Joe Zahn
rjzahn@usaor.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: 100,000 plus

Repair History: n/a

Work Completed: rebuilding unit

Summary: I'm trying to install the hi-energy 3-4 clutch pack into the input drum. Evidently there is some difference between the 700's and the 4L60E'S, because I can't get the stackup right. I know that the steels are .106 thick, but I can't tell where the difference is. Any ideas? Thanks in advance, Elliot

Elliot Walters
trnsmsn@aol.com

RESPONSES;

• Date: Wed Apr 5 15:52:59 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, upgrading trans
  Hi Elliott, The five finger apply ring is shorter and you should use the solid pressure plates on top and bottom as they are part of the designs increased ridgidity to eliminate flexing of the pack.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Wed Apr 5 21:35:36 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, upgrading trans
  If you use a .125 bottom pressure plate out of an early 700, 4-.106 steels. 2 commercial .060.? steels together = .120. Use the original top pp and snap ring and you should have about .045 clearance. I put the 2- .060 steels together in the middle of the pack and reinstall the load springs. I have been doing this for years with no problems.I also always use the High energy Borg Warner frictions.

  Dale Blake
  dblake@telusplanet.net

FIX;

Elliot Walters
trnsmsn@aol.com

QUESTION:

Mileage: N\A

Repair History: N/A

Work Completed: N/A

Summary: I am in search of a reliable way to identify the cases. My employer has some gutted out cases, both 86 types, that may ,or may not, require auxiliary valve bodies. The Feed Back database was inconclusive. Any hints? TIA!

Randy Kanary
kanarys@zbzoom.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Tue Aug 31 17:16:25 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, How to identify cases,W\, W\O aux.
  Randy. First see if you have the case cut out at the pump for the auxilary forward tube. Next look at the worm casting around the reverse feed. The auxiliary has a dam in the reverse worm tracking. You might want to look at a known aux case and a known non aux. case to see what I mean. After 1987 the cases had a moon shaped casting mark around the servo and the identification casting #'s are potruding out. These are easy to identify once you see what I mean. Hope this helps and watch out for the 1987's. They will burn you.

  Dale Blake
  dblake@telusplanet.net

• Date: Wed Sep 1 05:33:09 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, How to identify cases,W\, W\O aux.
  Randy, The auxiliary V/B didn't come out until 1987. If yours are 1986, they should be non-auxiliary.

  Chuck Reavis
  quui@aol.com

• Date: Wed Sep 1 07:36:10 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, How to identify cases,W\, W\O aux.
  Hi Randy, As chuck pointed out,the aux vb model did'nt come out till `87,however sometimes stuff gets swapped so ya still gotta know.If it is an aux vb model it will have a check ball and capsule at the low/rev piston feed. Visable at the rear of the channel casting of the case. Note that often the checkball falls out of the capsule but the capsule will still be there.

  Clayton Allen
  claydo1@aol.com

• Date: Wed Sep 1 09:02:59 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, How to identify cases,W\, W\O aux.
  Hi Randy! Check the pump gasket surface for a D4 oil hole (it´s the first left from the band anchor pin) These channel goes to governor feed (rear the second of right if you look in driving direction under the car) If there is a hole -->it´s non auxl. / no hole --> auxl. is needed. Hope you understand "german english" Hope this helps you. Rosi

  Falk Rossberg
  falkrossberg@t-online.de

• Date: Wed Sep 15 17:52:50 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, How to identify cases,W\, W\O aux.
  Thank you ,all, for your input! I think this thread can now be closed, as Fixed!

  Randy Kanary
  rj@kanarysweb.com

• Date: Wed Sep 15 21:54:23 PDT 1999
  Subject: 700R4, How to identify cases,W\, W\O aux.
  700r4's with aux valve bodys can be idientified on the exterior buy the casting seam on the cooling line side..it looks like a long half moon

  Lenard Lof
  alltech.transmissions@usa.net

FIX;

Randy Kanary
kanarys@zbzoom.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: 87043

Repair History: Came in with no 4th Gear Rebuilt trans replaced 2-4 band & reverce input drum still no 4th gear

Work Completed: Check oil presure at idle 105 psi

Summary: 1-2 shift are fine 2-3 shift is slow about 35 mph at very little throttle then no 3-4 shift. It dose not have a neutral condition,just no 3-4 shift, But if you lift off the throttle at 60 mph it feels like it is in neutral then when you get back on the throttle it is in 3rd

John Sines
johnbsines@compuserve.com

RESPONSES;

• Date: Tue Apr 4 10:04:51 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  This trans will free wheel in 1st, 2nd, and third if it has not upshifted on a lift throttle. Your idle line pressure is too high, indicating probably a hung throttle valve, which would also account for no 4th gear.

  Frank Choate
  jfranklinc@aol.com

• Date: Tue Apr 4 16:47:58 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  Hi John, Fix the high line and you will probably fix the no 4th. How is the response? If it seems normal other than the high minimum I would start by looking at the TV cable setting/connection.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Tue Apr 4 18:27:04 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  Sounds like a possible govenor problem or valve body, I would check to see if govenor it faulty or if govenor pressure is leaking by in the bore, It all most seems that govenor pressure isn't high enough or unable to overcome the throttle pressure in either case check the TV valve as well.

  Keith Bruce
  kwbruce@telusplanet.net

• Date: Tue Apr 4 21:32:38 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  John, I would put a gauge on it and when it is supposed to shift to 4th I would watch for a needle flick or a drop in pressure. If it doesn't do either, then it may be a stuck 3-4 shift valve. That's where I would start checking. Good luck.

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

• Date: Tue Apr 4 21:47:36 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  if you do not have a neutral condition then the shift valve is not shifting. did you leave a switch out. I have also seen the cup plug missing on top of the 3-4 suttle valve. it will also make 4th disappear. missing or cut seal on the servo piston in the cover. hope this helps

  Jeff Anglesey
  apautooldtimer57@aol.com

• Date: Wed Apr 5 07:12:53 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  John, Seems to me that if you put the piston in the cover backwards that could cause a no 4th.

  Steve Allbee
  steve@customtrans.com

UPDATE:

John Sines
johnbsines@compuserve.com

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Wed Apr 5 18:02:56 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  john i had one do the same thing,gov looked perfect,eventualy replaced it and it was fixed.could not find problem with gov,got rid of it.hope it helps

  Kenneth Bracy
  transhop@localnet.com

• Date: Wed Apr 5 21:51:59 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  Hi John: Question: Does the pressure stay at 105# no matter what? Very Important. Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Thu Apr 6 00:22:31 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  John, Did you put the fail safe ball in the trans? It is the one the little wicker bill pushes off the seat when the tv cable adjusted properly. I have seen some of those linkages that didn't have the wicker bill and if the ball is there it is in fail safe because there is nothing to unseat the ball. Good luck Roger

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

• Date: Thu Apr 6 01:37:12 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  Hi John, Pull the pan and remove the TV plunger. Use an extension to reach in and push on the TV valve to make sure that it is free. IF OK Put the pan back and run the trans with a gauge on line. You should see low pressure. If you still see minimum of 105# then pull the trans and see why the pump slide is sticking. If it was remaned look for a radious along the outer edge.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Thu Apr 6 04:35:20 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  Hello John! I would try a different set of the boost valves. A time ago I have had a problem with a too long TV boost valve. The effect was too little space for the PR valve to move. This was similar to yours too high line. Good luck! Rosi germany

  Falk Rossberg
  falkrossberg@t-online.de

• Date: Thu Apr 6 06:50:09 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  Hello John! In the original post you wrote ´88 PU and 6.5 diesel. Do you mean 6.2 or is it a swap. If so maybe there is a problem with the TV linkage geometry. Disconnect the cable and check for min TV line pressure. Does the press. increase with rpm (w/o TV cable)? Is there a difference hot and cold? What about the other readings? Rosi germany

  Falk Rossberg
  falkrossberg@t-online.de

UPDATE:

John Sines
johnbsines@compuserve.com

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Thu Apr 6 20:44:53 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  John,did you add a larger boost valve? What kind of torq convertor do you have in there? Did you also check to see if you maybe forgot to or cut the sealing ring on 4th servo piston? What did you change ? CJ of Canada

  CJ of-Canada
  info@transtechca.com

• Date: Thu Apr 6 22:11:13 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  John: When you get this back in the car and you still do not have 4th. Then remove the governor and stick some pieces of vacumn hose in the governor to block the weights OUT. This should give you a forth gear start. Lets find out if we have 4th. For now, check the governor screen, I personally leave them out. Check the governor passages (I have found errant check balls in them). I do have a question. Upon initial tear down, were the 3-4 clutches burned, also are they burned or charred now? One time while experimenting, I block the 3-4 shift valve to the at rest position. The symptoms were the same as yours. If I let off the gas, it was like I was in neutral, then reapply the gas I would be in 3rd. I seriously doubt that all 3 of your VB's would have the same problem. One last thing to check is the sideways movement of the governor. I prefer around 1/16", you can just tap on the governor cover to tighten it (too much movement and you start blocking off passages. Good Luck and get back with clutch info. Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Fri Apr 7 02:17:02 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  While its on the bench, check the pivot pin for the pump slide, if its worn, its leaking reducing pressure. Also check the line bias valve in the valve body very closely. I like to check my pumps, expecially rebuilt ones by bolting it together with the slide in place without the springs and shake to see if the slide rattles as it it should. I still think this hi line pressure is your problem and its acting as you are heavy on the throttle and won't get 4th gear until way over the speed limit.

  Frank Choate
  jfranklinc@aol.com

• Date: Fri Apr 7 03:40:31 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  Hi John, It still sounds like your pump slide is sticking 105 psi is just to high. Take the pump slide put it in the pump without the return springs the veins or the rotor, torque the pump half's. Now shake the pump the slide must rattle around. I think that you have a warped pump and the slide is not able to go through it's full travel, The pressure moves it to high line and the warp keeps the springs from being able to move the slide back to base pressure. Dave Foster

  David Foster
  transtech@metrolink.net

• Date: Fri Apr 7 05:08:39 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  Hi John, High line pressure could be caused by a stuck slide. I heard sonnax makes a tool to check for that. Ask your vendor about it and how it works. Just a thought.

  Jeff Balak
  kdhtrans55@aol.com

• Date: Fri Apr 7 05:35:29 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  John: Most times when the slide is hung in the pump the line pressure will start to rise when you give it full TV but then get unstable and begin dropping. Pull the TV cable only do not increase engine rpm to do this test. If pressure rises good when TV is pulled,the high pressure [105] will be due to a hung Throttle valve, TV limit valve or pressure regulator valve train. Possible mis adjusted cable or crossleak. Leave the 3/8 failsafe ball out if you have to pull the valve body. The no 4th problem may be problem #2. I would move your pressure gauge to the 4th gear tap ( you still should have it on the 88 case. 50-50 chance) Run it through the gears to see if pressure even trys to come up in the circuit. This is the quickest way to get going in the right direction as to if the problem is valve body, governor, or 4th circuit leak. Also remember you can have a good second and no 4th because of to much band clearance. Drill and Tap a servo cover to make a pressure tap if your case does not have one.Useful tool. Let us know.Good Luck. Paul.

  Paul Erickson
  stp1paul@aol.com

• Date: Fri Apr 7 07:04:51 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  The air check tool for the pump slide is cool. It lets you check the slide with all the parts installed and the pump halfs torqued. You blow air into the tool and you can hear and feel the slide move forward and snap back.

  Jim Eberhart
  eberhart@efortress.com

• Date: Fri Apr 7 09:48:04 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  do you have any boost with this or are you in boost? what pressure in rev. and in drive with the t.v. cable pulled?

  Jeff Anglesey
  apautooldtimer57@aol.com

UPDATE:

John Sines
johnbsines@compuserve.com

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Fri Apr 7 13:56:54 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  John, Here is a list of things to check in order: 1. Check max line in Drive and Reverse. Should be 150 psi in Reverse and 210(or more) in Drive. Pressures should not drop off. If it does you may have a bad pump. The pump has to really work hard to make that 4th gear shift so it needs to be perfect. 2. Worn governor bore 3. Gov. Gear too tight. 4. Check for correct governor weights. 5. Make sure Throttle Pressure is not too high so as to not influence line pressure. This will prevent a 4 th gear shift. 105 psi at idle is a little high. It should be a min of 65 to 70. 6. Check to see if the 4-3 sequence valve is worn in your current valve body 7. And the 3-4 shift valve 8. And the 4-3 sequence end plug. Leaks in the above three will prevent a 4th gear shift. If you need it, email your number to me and I will have Bob Warnke help with your unit to see if we can get Joe Consumer back on the road. Please let us know what you find out. Best Regards,

  Howard Johnston
  hkj@sonnax.com

• Date: Fri Apr 7 15:22:07 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  Hi John I haven't seen anyone suggest that you may have the wrong PR valve in the pump. The older valve didn't have a balance hole in it and it would really give you a headache with the high line. Good luck, and hang in there! -- Kit Lindsay Lindsay Transmission 1111 South Maguire Warrensburg, MO. 64093 660 747 2272 or 800 875 4588 Fax 660 747 2861 lindsay2@sprintmail.com www.lindsaytransmission.com Serving on TRNi with the industry's best shops --------------------------------------------------------

  Kit Lindsay
  lindsay2@sprintmail.com

• Date: Fri Apr 7 16:20:59 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  > No 4th gear.. > This trans has high line pressure, ( FYI... Most often a no 4th gear condition is induced by sticking throttle valve.) First--- Disconnect TV cable and check line. minimum line is established with the pressure regulator spring (in pump) Spring tension of about 7#6-8oz @ .850" will give approx 70 psi minimum. Check it. Someone may have put the wrong PR spring in there. If you don't have scale and calipers install green PR spring from SK-700 junior kit. Expect 75 psi line or lower. If minimum line is still hi remove throttle plunger from VB and put pan back up, dump fluid back in it and check hi idle (1000- 1200 rpm) line pressure by rotating throttle cam, TV disconnected. If reading is now 68-72 you have a TV problem. Note: when checking PR spring inspect valve to make sure balance hole is unrestricted.

  Dean Mason
  translab@juno.com

• Date: Fri Apr 7 16:50:54 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  Is it possible you have too much clearance on the servo pin to the case bore?thats where 4th apply oil comes in. You might wanna try an early pin with the teflon rings. just a thought. Good luck.

  Anthony Petti
  sburnout@aol.com

• Date: Fri Apr 7 18:30:26 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  hi john id try putting in a another complete pump

  Gregory Gaal
  gregg505@aol.com

• Date: Fri Apr 7 19:23:17 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  Hi John, I Think gregory is right,pull it out and change the pump,from what I can make out you probably haven't got a valvebody fault,if you have had 3 valve bodies thru this one with no change in line pressure. Check the original pump to see if the decrease oil orifice cup plug is missing from the pump cover(long shot).If you change the pump and it does not fix it then a least you can rule it out as the cause but hopefully it will be the fix and 4th will start shifting again. Every now and then we find nothing wrong with a part that we think may be causing the fault but when we change it fixes the problem,lets hope this applies in your case.Hang in there and you'll get it beat,good luck! Regards Kim

  Kim Walton
  citytrans@webscene.com.au

• Date: Fri Apr 7 22:07:50 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  Hi John, There are a lot of possibilities here, I'll just name things that come to mind. First I would check pressure readings at line then compare to 3rd and 4th readings. It sounds like the problem starts to surface with that slow 2-3 shift like maybe poor line rise or a leak somewhere like maybe on the release side of the 2-4 servo. Possibly at the capsule? 1) severely worn 4th accumulator piston. Hole in center is often worn out. 2) Bad governor or worn governor bore. Won't produce enough Gov pressure to command shift. Maybe a plugged Gov. screen. 3) Weak pump or leaking circuits in pump. I hate to sound like a broken record, but, I always use Superior Super Pumps. They are fully tested and always give my 700's better performance. I HAVE compared and there is no comparison in my book. 4) I never use less than a .471 tv boost valve in full size vehicles. 5) I never use a 2-4 servo smaller than the #553 assembly. Hope this helps

  Clayton Allen
  claydo2@aol.com

• Date: Sat Apr 8 03:34:35 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  John unless you are suffering from "Murphys law" you should be able to "rule out" the V/B & Governor. That leaves the PRV & Casing or the T/V cable or linkage,inc line boost in the T/V line up. I would hook up gauges to line & 4th gear oil going to the 2/4 servo, disconnect the T/V cable ,now check line to see if the line boost in the T/V line up is functioning, then pull the T/V out to approx. 1/4 throttle ( not connected) and check line now put the T/V cable through its full travel ( idle through to K/D) have you lost the high line at idle? No, must mean that the basic PRV pressure is OFF so check the PRV valve & spring. If all this is functioning check pressure at 4th cl. tap, air check the 2/4 servo for leaks. Bob Ryan Ryan's Automatic Transmission Engineering Ltd London UK E-mail bob@firstrate.demon.co.uk WEB www.firstrate.demon.co.uk Phone- 44-208-209-1161 Fax- 44-208-458-7570

  Bob Ryan
  firstrate@firstrate.demon.co.uk

• Date: Sat Apr 8 04:31:42 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  Hi John, If 2nd is ok and third is high and no fourth, maybe you have low governor pressure. I know you've checked the governor and valve body. How about the auxiliary valve body? There is an abuse in the aux V/B that is in the line prior to the governor. We had one that had worn the bore out and had no upshifts like a bad governor. The abuse valve in the Aux. V/B was pounded in too far about 3/16 of an inch and the bore was worn out. This valve is in the line oil circuit before the governor. Maybe it is worn some and you have low governor pressure, enough for 1-2 shift and late 3rd and no 4th. Have you tried a different Aux. V/B? Good luck,

  Dell Wellons
  woodchpr@worldnet.att.net

• Date: Sat Apr 8 05:59:19 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  Hi John, I posted about taking the TV plunger out of the VB and running the vehicle to check pressures. Did you do this? It will eliminate all 'external' boosting pressures (as log as the TV valve is free when you push it with an extension) and tell you what the absolute minimum output pressure of the pump is. Are you still using the same PR spring and valve setup?

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Sat Apr 8 06:30:30 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  You show what idle line is, which you already know is too high, but have you checked the TV cable itself? I noticed on your post that it is a 6.5, which would be a diesel. It has the mickey mouse cable that hooks up at the rear of the intake and has the rod running on up to the injector pump. If it was sticking, undrer the air intake that could cause your high line. I wouldn't worry about 4th until you get pressure down to around 60 or so lbs at idle. Good Luck

  Chuck Clampitt
  mrshift@starcomm.net

• Date: Sat Apr 8 08:08:55 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, No 4th Gear
  John, You have high line at idle, have you pulled out the cable to see if you have line rise. Is the cable moving freely, have you removed the pan to see if the cable is indeed returning all the way, it's possible the cable is no good. On rebuild the pump is the most important piece in this unit, it can make or brake the overhaul. These are some of the things I do on them: 1) take a flate file, not a real course one and run it over the surface, your looking or high spots around the edges and such. 2) take a 1/2 drill bit and drill into your bolt holes for connecting the two halfs together, if the holes were taped up to the surface thay can cause a cross leak so camfer the tops with an oversized drill bit. 3) Always install a 10 vane rotor (Transtar has a nice one)and make sure of the clearances between the bore of the rotor and the rotor. 4) Install a .500 PR valve sleeve and valve(Transtar has these also) save the old one and put it in an s-10. If you install this put in the sk kit(jr) and use the large reference for the pr valve. 5) grind the land of the pr valve for line to lube. 6) when installing the pump slide intall that rubber thingy and the teflon thingy first. Set the slide in the bore and push down on the teflon thing and seal. Then push in the spring and pivot. Now after you got this in push down on the slide and take a single edge razor blade (new one) and slice off the top of that teflon keep the blade flush to the pump cover. I feel this extra could stop up the slide. Been doing this for years with no problems and I do it on all vane pumps. One last note, air check that servo, make sure it has .060 movement on the band, MAKE adjustments by welding more to the end not using shims. If you go in too far with the pin it WILL bottom. And make sure the piston in the cover has the long stem facing into the cover. Good luck. Bassman steve allbee

  Steve Allbee
  steve@customtrans.com

FIX;

John Sines
johnbsines@compuserve.com

QUESTION:

Mileage: 120 k

Repair History: rebuilt last week

Work Completed: replaced pump, replaced VB, sep plate, gaskets

Summary: OK, since John has fixed his, here's my tale of woe: Rebuilt unit, it came back not shifting. Pulled back out, found pump slide looked like it was binding. Installed rebuilt pump, did 10 mile road test, shifted great, next day it came back again. Gage shows 140 at idle, same as before pump replacement. Just got in from changing VB, started it, 60 pounds. Wow...its fixed...... NOT! after 3 blocks, it went back to 140.....very erratic, the gage is doing a dance between 100 and 160..... Guess I'll pull it and replace with a shelf unit, unless anyone has any bright ideas.....I'm guessing cross-leak or crack in case, since that's the only thing not changed.

Gary Glaenzer
glaenzer@csj.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Sun Apr 9 19:55:03 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, intermittent high line
  Hopefully you're done for the night. Let this thing cool down and then in the morning try it again and see if it acts nomal at first and then acts up as it heats up. I guess that would point to a crack somewhere?

  Darwin Upton
  darwank@usinternet.com

• Date: Mon Apr 10 01:27:50 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, intermittent high line
  Hi Gary, I hate to say this but it sounds like a sticky pump slide again. What do you torque the pump to? I use 18-20 ft/lbs. I would build the pump W/O the spring and rotor and see if the slide pops back and forth freely or see about that tool that allows you to check the slide action with it fully assembled. Does anyone know what that costs and who has it?

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Mon Apr 10 05:11:23 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, intermittent high line
  Hi Gary ALl these slides sticking! Isn't anyone sanding these pumps and slides for a nice fit? I probably shouldn't say this but I haven't seen a stuck slide here since Scooter was a pup...... With the problem heat related I am going along with the others that are saying crack/crossleak. Can a worn out boost valve do this somehow? How about the TV plunger? Seems like I remember something about it wearing and fluid pressure building up around it or how about that balance hole in the plate blocked? -- Kit Lindsay Lindsay Transmission 1111 South Maguire Warrensburg, MO. 64093 660 747 2272 or 800 875 4588 Fax 660 747 2861 lindsay2@sprintmail.com www.lindsaytransmission.com Serving on TRNi with the industry's best shops --------------------------------------------------------

  Kit Lindsay
  lindsay2@sprintmail.com

FIX;

Gary Glaenzer
glaenzer@csj.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: some

Repair History: Hello all, this truck is originally a 5spd with a 305 engine, now is a 383 with a 700R4 truck. Went from 3.73 to 4.10 gears, need to now if and where DRAC is.

Work Completed: If it doesn't have a DRAC it will have to get an ATG Recalibrater, to get the speedo correct. I looked under the dash briefly and saw no little white box. Manuals don't even normally acknowledge this wonderful little item.

Summary: If anyone knows if this truck has one and if so where is it located, if not I will have to give the Recalibrater a try. Thank you and have a good weekend. Don Oremus Kilpatrick Eng. & Trans Waukesha WI

Don Oremus
dkoremus@execpc.com

RESPONSES;

• Date: Sat Mar 18 14:35:53 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, DRAC location?
  Don, I'm not that sure on the standard transmission, but the automatic 4L60 transmissions have no external drac. The VSS wires run directly into the speedometer (B16 and B13 I think). The recailbrator is an option, but you can recalibrate the speedo by removing the instrument cluster and working with the resistors. This procedure is in most repair manuals, and really pretty easy, though the times it can be done is limited.

  Dan Tucker
  transman@prodigy.net

FIX;

Don Oremus
dkoremus@execpc.com

QUESTION:

Mileage: NA

Repair History: Cust say 3 transmissions in 3 years. Every time cust has installed himself. He has not bypassed the stock cooler. He just used flush in a can.

Work Completed: Bench job. Fluid is BLACK. Clutches look good. Overrun sprag worn out. Rear planetary carrier cracked. Planetary bearings shot.

Summary: Is it possible to build a trans to hold up to the turbo. He wants to to a 3000lb trailer. I am thinking cust low stall converter, Big Tru-Cool, .5 inch boost valve. Any other ideas or input? I am concerned about lock-up holding up to the power. Since it comp controlled, I can't put in the conv delay valve. I read one of you guy installs 700's in Suburbans without a lock-up clutch. Is this idea worth consideration? I know there is a wide range of opinions on this topic. Thanks a bunch. No I mean a whole bunch.

Daniel Wills
danwills@mindspring.com

RESPONSES;

• Date: Wed Apr 12 19:03:08 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, I want to build one suited to the task
  I know it's going to be hard to do, but under the circumstances (3 units in 3 years, heavy assed trailer) I would INSIST on him letting you install it. That way you KNOW that the cooler gets installed properly, (bypassing rad) and the lines get cleaned. And you can make sure it works correctly after it's installed. The .5 boost valve is good. A lot of folks will come on and say to put in a dozen (O.K.,,,,9) 3-4 clutches, but I have seen them burn up too. I don't like the thinness of the steels. Not enough heat transfer,,,,,,and you already said the clutches looked good. A low stall TC would be good. The non L/U TC will still make a lot of heat if a lot of weight is being pulled. You can use a Transgo shift kit, or you can not use one. Either way. Make sure you charge good for your work!

  Darwin Upton
  darwank@usinternet.com

• Date: Wed Apr 12 20:21:50 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, I want to build one suited to the task
  I would want to know what gears are under it. I would think they SHOULD be at LEAST .373 if he wants it to live long. JMO

  Chuck Clampitt
  mrshift@starcomm.net

• Date: Fri Apr 14 01:49:28 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, I want to build one suited to the task
  Hi Daniel, Get a TransGo Reprogramming Kit for it. I would suggest getting a good book and a sandwich and call the product support line at TransGo and see if they have any extra suggestions.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

FIX;

Daniel Wills
danwills@mindspring.com

QUESTION:

Mileage: 150.000mls

Repair History: none

Work Completed: none

Summary: I need pictures of this transmission in order to locate parts. There is one clip or retainer near the park-lock whichi dont know where it came from! I have no sectional picts of that tranny whatsoever.

Erik Schulte
schulte@schulte-automobiltechnik.de

RESPONSES;

• Date: Sun Apr 23 15:47:46 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, parts location
  it's a steel-wire clip or bracket and looks like its holding something in place.It fell down when I was pulling the last clutches from the output-shaft out of the housing. The tranny was laying with the oilpan upside on a flat bench. It's appr. 1.1/2 inch long and almost one inch wide and with a lot of fantasy it looks like a "C"

  Erik Schulte
  schulte@schulte-automobiltechnik.de

• Date: Sun Apr 23 15:57:10 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, parts location
  Eric... the "thing" you found, is the Anti clunk spring for the center support. You better take a good look at the lugs in the case to be sure that they are not worn from the support. If the lugs are worn, put in a case saver!

  Pete Morgan
  pjm59@worldpath.net

• Date: Sun Apr 23 16:06:06 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, parts location
  Sounds like the center support spring.

  Harold Hawkins
  harolds1@flash.net

FIX;

Erik Schulte
schulte@schulte-automobiltechnik.de

PROBLEM/FIX:

Problem/Fix: I have been swapping auxillary VB unit and non-Aux unit almost forever, with absolutely no problems. I intend to do that on this one. The only difference beside AUX is the Aux has 30 spline torque converter and the one non-Aux that I intend to install has the old 27 spline. The question is will this present any installation problems. The vehicle will also receive a separate Tru-cool cooler. Thanks, Jim, III

Jim III
stardust@frontiernet.net

PROBLEM/FIX:

Problem/Fix: Jim III, I think the weak link in this conversion would be the input shaft, if the van is to do any hard work Emory

Don Emory
mwolfing@vicon.net

QUESTION:

Mileage:

Repair History: Rebuilt and airchecked, no shortcuts.

Work Completed: Non-perfect road test.

Summary: 700R4 Non-aux-VB. 1-2 nice shift 3 makes the shift and then is neutral or spin-up then will go into 4th. Now the 3-4 clutches have to be on to get 3rd or 4th. So I'm assuming the 3-4 clutches are working. TV is stuck with no line rise at about 75# The only thing that I can think of is that is not enough pressure to hold 3rd. 4th only requires 75 or 90# to hold it. I have installed the cup plug in the servo. any thoughts. Jim, III

Jim III
stardust@frontiernet.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Wed Apr 26 21:50:09 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, has 4th, no 3rd
  jim im not sure if this is related to a post i saw a day or two ago about puting a 83 or so in a 90somthing suburban? but if it is my advice would be take that piece of ##### out and give the customer something that wont hurt your shops reputation. if this is a diferent post im sorry. and this is just my opinion.

  Billy Tippit
  batippit2@cs.com

• Date: Thu Apr 27 02:48:13 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, has 4th, no 3rd
  Jim, You know you have a pressure problem. Fix that first.

  Dell Wellons
  woodchpr@worldnet.att.net

• Date: Thu Apr 27 06:08:07 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, has 4th, no 3rd
  Hi Jim III, This is what I do on all the 700R4 that I rebuild to help improve 3rd. Block off 3-4 accumulator in case. I use (1) 3/8 nut and the thin black pump washers until the accumulator piston is almost flush with the case. Leave out checkball in the case by the 3-4 accumulator. Leave out 3rd checkball in the case (the one to the very front on drivers side). Try this you won't be disappointed - don't worry it still will not shift very hard. It stops the shutters I used to get before, as the transmission would shift into 3rd (especially 87-up).

  Kent Nelson
  kent@mich.com

FIX;

Jim III
stardust@frontiernet.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: NA

Repair History: Not knowen

Work Completed: Tear down, stop by mud

Summary: OK- I will try this again. Has anyone done work on a trans that has been in flood and has set for 6-12 months?? I have a 700R4 I was going to build for stock but have been unable to do much to get it cleen. Any suggestions? as I am ready to junk it. Larry Williams Tucson, Arizona

Larry Williams
maxiepoo2000lw@netscape.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Sat Apr 22 15:02:52 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Trans been in flood
  Larry; If its got mud inside I'd scrap it. Not worth the risk of a piece being stuck just enough to resist your efforts at cleaning, but not enough to stay stuck at 1000 miles down the road. Just my opinion.

  Gary Glaenzer
  glaenzer@csj.net

• Date: Sat Apr 22 19:08:04 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Trans been in flood
  Hi Larry, I have done some trannys that have been in floods, but I haven't done a 700. If I was to try, I would be using the parts washer and a sandblaster as needed. I would completely tear down the valvebody and be sure it is clean. In sumary, I am sure you can do it. It is just a matter of how much time you are willing put into it.

  Daniel Wills
  danwills@mindspring.com

• Date: Sat Apr 22 19:08:38 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Trans been in flood
  larry, Ive built quite a few of these units in floods here in N.C. but if its saturated with mud or rust from sitting awhile i would kick it off to the side and use parts if there good in a pinch situation if need be,you would probably spend more time cleaning this bird then its worth, just my opinion.

  Tony Yurkevicius
  trannyman123@aol.com

• Date: Sat Apr 22 19:39:42 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Trans been in flood
  hi larry the only way that i would use a water damaged unit is if it were very recent. yours is six months. what about the rollers in the planets there has to be some pitting in there or the bearings i think all you'll be building is a time bomb. i don't know what you guys pay for a 700 core but here in new york it's about 25.00 to 50.00 bucks. not worth the effort to clean that unit. i would scrap the whole thing good luck

  William Chechel
  wchechel@aol.com

• Date: Sat Apr 22 19:50:19 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Trans been in flood
  Larry, 2 thoughts come to my mind. 1, is if you have an Ultra-Sonic cleaner it greatly increase the parts you can reasonibly salvage. 2, if it is really bad........maybe a reman will be the most profitable fix for you. I'm sure the customer would understand the extra expense, and GM should take the core. I have gotten burnt a couple of times rebuilding 'swimmers'(pre-ultrasonic) by not sanding the pistons and drums where the lip seals run. If they are very rough, it will sometimes roll the seal off.

  Dan Tucker
  transman@prodigy.net

• Date: Sat Apr 22 19:55:50 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Trans been in flood
  Hi Larry, Jeeze, I don't know about you, but I've got 700's stacked like cord wood.Unless it has sentimental value, I'd chuck it. Not worth the effort. (just my opinion) Dave

  Dave Hocanson
  hsp@bright.net

UPDATE:

Larry Williams
maxiepoo2000lw@netscape.net

MORE RESPONSES:

UPDATE:

Larry Williams
maxiepoo2000lw@netscape.net

MORE RESPONSES:

FIX;

Larry Williams
maxiepoo2000lw@netscape.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: 98000

Repair History: none

Work Completed: none

Summary: I am building a 700R CORE none auxiliary vb, with a (type 4 Wiring Diagram MODEL: FA, MA, MM, TJ, YK, YN, YP,YT) for a costumer who is going to put in a 57 CHEV with a CHEV 350 engine. He would like not to have the lockup converter option. Questions: 1. Anyone installed converter without a lock up clutch in a 700r? 2. If the question to 1. Is yes what has to be done to the lockup part of the Hydraulic system if any? 3. What about the electrical part of the trans? 4. Anything that I didn’t mention? Thank you for you input. Walt

Walt's Trans
waltg@relia.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Sun Apr 23 14:02:06 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, rebuild core with no lock converter
  Walt, Gil makes a valve for this procedure, and get a dummy converter you must use a conv. W/O a clutch....hope this helps...Emory... oh yes, just toss the wiring and switches and pipe plug the switch holes.

  Don Emory
  mwolfing@vicon.net

• Date: Sun Apr 23 14:35:31 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, rebuild core with no lock converter
  Hi Walt, Along with Gil's Valve and special converter, make SURE that this car has low gearing and a TruCool LPD cooler. Synthetic would be a plus too.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Sun Apr 23 14:47:21 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, rebuild core with no lock converter
  Hey Walt, I've built a few 700's for friends to be used in older vehicles that do dot have the wiring, and what seems to work is putting a large(orange) checkball from an AOD into the L/U solenoid, and putting a diesel L/U valve/spring assembly in. This way you will still have L/U come in when vehicle speed gets to appx. 47 mph without wiring.Remember that lock up is now fully hydraulic, so it will not drop out until vehicle speed drops below the apply speed...

  Pete Morgan
  pjm59@worldpath.net

• Date: Mon Apr 24 19:45:06 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, rebuild core with no lock converter
  walt all you have to do is leave it unpluged. the problem is the trans overheating from the converter slip. if he,s running a 4.11 rearend no problem, if he,s using 2.78 your screwed.

  Billy Tippit
  batippit2@cs.com

• Date: Mon Apr 24 20:57:56 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, rebuild core with no lock converter
  Use trans-go de-lock kit , don't know the part # but your supplier should have it. Get torque built with out tcc (I believe there has to be a spacer put in place of the clutch). did this on a diesel last winter & worked ok.

  Ken Buehler
  kbuehler@freespace.net

FIX;

Walt's Trans
waltg@relia.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: 91000

Repair History: Overhauled trans 30 days ago with kit and converter, pump Came back with no/late upshifts, dropped pan, metal,,,Converter went bad,dropped bearing, put metal in trans

Work Completed: rebuilt again, now no upshift at all, replaced case didn't like some things about it,put in sometimes late upshifts again, replaced valve body and installed tv spring,works 90% of time but when hot it has an occasional late upshift and maybe no od at all, also does it after useing reverse it seems..pull over bang pedal a few times and back to working perfect

Summary: what would you guys try next?

Dennis Gipe
dgipe@cvn.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Wed Nov 24 07:49:35 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, Late upshift when hot
  Check: gov. & bore, TV balance hole in seperator plate(drill to .056.

  Ronnie Bingham
  mrtrb@bellsouth.net

• Date: Wed Nov 24 23:49:43 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, Late upshift when hot
  Hi Dennis, Sounds like you could still be fighting metal contamination. How about putting a gauge on it and see how your tv pressure responds. Maybe the tv valve is sticking still. I like using inline filters if I am not sure if it is clean

  Daniel Wills
  danwills@mindspring.com

• Date: Thu Nov 25 02:39:01 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, Late upshift when hot
  Hi Dennis, It sounds like there is still metal in the cooler from the converter failure. I would bypass the cooler, preferably with a TruCool Cooler, and for the sticking TV valve I would get a TransGo 700 JR Shift Kit. It contains a new, self cleaning throttle valve along with a complate stack up for that valve which won't hang up. It also makes for nice shift quality and a long lasting trans. Leo

  Leo Schneggenburger
  transfixleo@netscape.net

• Date: Thu Nov 25 15:52:58 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, Late upshift when hot
  Dennis, If you are fighting metal contamination than do yourself a favor and get a Tru-cool cooler and bypass that stinkin radiator.

  Steve Allbee
  steve@customtrans.com

FIX;

Dennis Gipe
dgipe@cvn.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: ?

Repair History: Trans was built for this hotrod.

Work Completed: Rebuilt unit with new converter. master kit & bushings & filter.

Summary: On this unit, torque converter came apart, filling unit with fine metal. After overhauling , this trans has a pronounced knocking noise anytime the pressure rises above 150 PSI. I took pressure tests as follows. P 100 230 R 155 280 N 100 230 OD 100 230 D 100 230 2 205 205 1 205 205 As you can see, I have good boost. When the pressure passes 150 PSI, it starts to knock like a broken flexplate. Only thing is, whren it passes 260 PSI, It shuts up! I thought I would run this by you guys before I shoehorn this thing back out(PITA) Thanks in advance.

Paul Davies
phdavies@theramp.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Thu Apr 13 18:48:16 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Knocking Trans
  Paul, I had one similar to this about a month ago. It was a 383 stroker motor with a 700R4 I built and he installed. when it came in, It sounded like a broken flex plate, but would shut up about 4000 RPM. It turned out that the thrust on the crank was loose just enough to let the crank walk forward into the mains from trans pressure pushing on the converter. When it was reved up, the oil pressure in the engine must have compensated the trans pressure and the knock would stop until the RPMs started back down. At idle and just above it wouldn't knock. The engine had a high pressure pump, so it carried about 40 psi at idle hot and 80 psi at 4000 RPM. I stuck a new rear main bearing in it to see what would happen, and it didn't make any more noise,...BUT, it will eventually without fixing the crank I'm sure. You can check the crank end play with a pry bar between the block and crank near the rear main.(engine off of course) Might be worth a look. Good luck. Dave

  Dave Hocanson
  hsp@bright.net

• Date: Fri Apr 14 15:33:05 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Knocking Trans
  Hi Paul, Dave may be right about the crank. Is the gauge steady when you hear the noise or does it bounce with the noise? If it does then the pump slide is going nuts, may be aggravated by the 1" boost valve !

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Sat Apr 15 01:16:52 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Knocking Trans
  Hello Paul! Try to find out why do you have so high pressures. Pressure rise seems to be good, but you must have about 10,5 lbs at the PRvalve to get so high line. Otherwise there must be something wrong. Maybe slow movement of the PR valve due to the dirt you refer to. Maybe leaking decrease oil on the slide. Slow movement of the slide due to dirt. What is the PR force and the combination of the boost valves? From what kind of car comes the tranny? Did you something recalibrate during thr OH? Keep in touch! Rosi germany

  Falk Rossberg
  falkrossberg@t-online.de

FIX;

Paul Davies
phdavies@theramp.net

PROBLEM/FIX:

Problem/Fix: need to know if no tcc will cause trans to overheat and burn 3-4 clutch, also need copy of bulitine.

Ronald Abbott
merle7@bellsouth.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: 100,000 ?

Repair History: Muffler shop replaced 3 seals, then I got it. Removed pump, replaced worn conv. to pump bushing, enlarged drain back hole to 1/4 inch,cleaned & checked p/r & boost valve, re assembled pump and installed w/new gasket,seals and rings.

Work Completed: Muffler dudes reinstalled it and drove it,said it was fine. Customer didn't make it out of the lot and it started spewing oil again. they put it on the hoist and said it was the seal again.

Summary: They are dragging it in here tomorrow. Could someone please refresh my memory on why these seals blow out. Oh yeah, its got the seal retainer on it too. The seal fits tight and the pump is in great shape. Trans shifts good according to the owner.

Dave Hocanson
hsp@bright.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Wed May 3 21:36:13 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Keeps blowing out converter seal
  Dave I would just get a different pump and reseal it the same as you did. It's possible you have a hairline crack in it. Did you check the hub to bushing clearance, .003 is good. Also you didn't say that you changed the converter. If the bushing was bad probably the hub is also worn some. Good luck Tom

  Tom Whitty
  twhitty@nji.com

• Date: Wed May 3 21:49:20 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Keeps blowing out converter seal
  Dave, Check to be sure this vehicle doesn't have a cracked flywheel and also that dowel pins are installed and holes in case not reamed out. Check converter for cracks to the hub as well as all welds. This is easy as you can install a rubber freeze plug in the converter neck and tighten the nut. Put it in your cleaning machine to heat it up. Drill a small hole through the rubber so you can apply pressure to the converter and don't give it the full 125 PSI or you will get hurt and need a change of clothes. Replace pump bushing and be sure to use locktite 640 on the bushing as well as new pump seal. Be sure to grind second land off from the top of your pressure regulator valve. You have have a high line condition and grinding this land will make the pressure more stable as well as help the converter. I have also found small cracks on the front pump. Some look like casting flaws and they will leak. Probably easiest for you to just replace the pump and be done with it. Hope this helps

  Donald Stone
  aaatrans@treco.net

• Date: Wed May 3 22:14:19 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Keeps blowing out converter seal
  Dave, Is the seal physically blowing out of the pump? Probably not with a seal retainer installed, the rubber would seperate from the metal seal housing first if the retainer is in good shape. I have also never had to drill the drainback holes on a 89 model either. So I will assume that you are talking about just leaking at the front seal area. These torque converters are very bad for cracking the hubs lengthwise from the bottom corner of the pump gear slots. I would check this very closely. If it is cracked then be sure to recheck the pump bushing. A cracked converter hub will destroy the bushing in a very short time. Also, if the bushing stop at the front of the pump bore has been knocked off by someone removing/installing a bushing incorrectly, then the bushing could have spun out or walked forwards causing a leak too. If it is indeed physically blowing the seal out of the pump with a seal retainer installed and the drainback holes drilled out to 1/4" then you probably have a extremely high pressure and/or excessive converter hub to bushing clearance, although this would be highly unusual in my opinion. I hope this helps.

  Robert Bruce
  robertlb@ev1.net

• Date: Thu May 4 01:09:50 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Keeps blowing out converter seal
  Dave, I drill the drain back holes to 5/16 and locktite the bushing and seal in with sleeve retainer. I stake the bushing if it isn't a duralife bushing. I also put the seal retainer on it. I think in your case I would also make sure the converter hub isn't worn out. Good hunting.

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

• Date: Thu May 4 01:37:22 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Keeps blowing out converter seal
  Hi Dave, One small note to add. When you drilled the pump, did you also drill the stator half? I find the later pump bodies uually are OK from the factory but they never changed the hole size on the stator.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Thu May 4 06:31:54 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Keeps blowing out converter seal
  Dave, At this point I would replace the flywheel and the converter and make sure the end of the crank for the stub on the converter is OK.

  Steve Allbee
  steve@customtrans.com

FIX;

Dave Hocanson
hsp@bright.net

PROBLEM/FIX:

Problem/Fix: Well the 700-R4 has finally done it. Gotten old like the Powerglide of years past. We had 2 of these this week and have been fighting it for a couple days. These tranny's are getting high mileage and have been rebuilt numerous times. We found the problem, it drops the 3-4 clutch. The input shaft is becoming loose where it presses into the drum, and the 3-4 clutch feed is very close to the edge. When very carefully air checking, we found it leaking at that point, and the hotter it gets the more it leaks. We condemned 4 drums today. We put them in the parts washer for a few minutes and they really leak. Just thought you might like to know.

Frank Choate
jfranklinc@aol.com

QUESTION:

Mileage: 138,000

Repair History: trans rebuilt by someone else 6 months ago

Work Completed: test drove,checked for power to tcc switch.

Summary: hi group, cust brought truck in and said that trans had been rebuilt about 6 months ago.he has a late shift on the 2-3 shift and no tcc but he has replaced feedback Q-jet with a carter and has butchered the cable and the vacume lines to the tcc vacume switch.my question is since he has replaced the carb and he expects me to wave my magic wand and make it all better,does the tcc vacume need to be manifold or ported vacume. any help will be greatly app. thanks to all bryan mead reliable automotive & transmission oak grove mo 64075 b.l.mead@worldnet.att.net

Bryan Mead
b.l.mead@worldnet.att.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Wed Nov 3 15:31:12 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, tcc inop
  Hi Bryan, Hook that baby up to ported vacuum. This way the switch closes only at part throttle. No throttle no vac, full throttle no vac. These switches work great for retrofits too.

  Clayton Allen
  claydo2@aol.com

• Date: Wed Nov 3 16:00:40 PST 1999
  Subject: 700R4, tcc inop
  Bryan, If this truck looks like it's going to take a lot of time to figure out a big wiring mess, save yourself the headache of fooling with port vacuum switches and wires by installing one of those little silver two prong normally closed valvebody switches behind the 3-4 shift valve, then hook a wire from one prong of the switch to the power wire of the lock-up solenoid, ground the negative wire of the lock-up solenoid on a valvebody bolt, run a hot wire to the other prong on the valvebody switch and you will get lock-up right after forth gear. hope this helps, Steve R.

  Steve Robinson
  gearhead2@webtv.net

FIX;

The author's membership with TRNi expired. Therefor, the thread was closed with no fix.

QUESTION:

Mileage:

Repair History: owner try to rebuild the trans

Work Completed: n/a

Summary: When I got this trans it was all mix up early & parts got it all back together same year parts works nice BUT the oil pressure goes cazys at ilde 65 in park give it some gas rise to 75 come back down ok right ? So I drive it oil pressure goes 120 to 0 to 100 back down 0 it does it so fast that I can hear the needle on the gauge hitting againtist it self !!! So What the hell is it ? Robert

Robert Mata
j200tm@starquest.net

RESPONSES;

FIX;

The author's membership with TRNi expired. Therefor, the thread was closed with no fix.

QUESTION:

Mileage: 98,000

Repair History: none

Work Completed: did oh relaced tc,bushings,band,shift kit,etc.

Summary: after oh it worked fine after about a month on the road it ame back when it goes into lu its ok but when your doing 60mph then leave off the gas and coast to about 50mph then step into it again when lu applies it vibrates like crazytouch the brake its goneonly thing i did so far was to put dr. tranny additive in it told customer to call me tuesday and let me know like some ideas on this one thanks,

Gregory Gaal
gregg505@aol.com

RESPONSES;

• Date: Fri May 26 21:27:17 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, vibration during lock-up
  greg what brand of converter did you use?(would really like a reply for that.) what shift kit and why? i have an idea but need more info. billy

  Billy Tippit
  batippit2@cs.com

• Date: Fri May 26 22:44:25 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, vibration during lock-up
  Gregory, Here's the way I fix these. I put double the amount of injector cleaner called for and a bottle of Isoheet in the fuel tank. Then I have the customer to drive it for a week before he brings it back. I have found dirty injectors cause this more than anything else. The only other thing I have found is the magnet on the distibutor shaft gets loose but this usually throws the engine timing around until it is more noticable. Hope this helps.

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

• Date: Sat May 27 08:04:54 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, vibration during lock-up
  GREG HAVE YOU TRIED TO STALL THE VEHICLE LIKE COME TO A COMPLETE STOP AND STEP ON THE BRAKE AND WITH YOUR RIGHT FOOT STEP ON THE GAS TO ABOUT 3/4 TROTTLE OR MORE AND SEE IF ITS A PLUG OR PLUT WIRE IF IT SHAKES AND VIBRATES WHEN AT A STOP THEN ITS YOUR PLUGS OR WIRES OR DISTRIBUTOR OR INJECTORS CHECK IT THAT WAY. SOME TIMES TCC APPLY WHEN IGNITION IS BAD CAN MAKE A VERY SERIOUS VIBERATION. JCAPHOOK LATERS GOOD LUCK

  James Leal
  jcaphook@aol.com

UPDATE:

hi fellow members,i posted this problem a week or so ago i had a reply from someone who said they could tell me exactly what lock up spring to use but i cant find who it was must have deleted it by mistake.this is a 85 gmc safari van v-6 after we oh. it it goes into lock up fine but after your going about 55-60 mph and let of gas then step back on it vibrates bad first thing i did was to put dr.trannys additive in it didnt help, so vans coming back tomorrow would like some info on this please thanks.

Gregory Gaal
gregg505@aol.com

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Tue Jun 6 04:43:23 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, vibration during lock-up

  ignition miss under load very common causes shutter/vibration light brake petal {enough to light brake lamps}during shutter if it comes+goes with brake on/off most likely ign miss good luck

  Webster Dave
  drwtt@wtco.net

• Date: Tue Jun 6 10:27:18 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, vibration during lock-up

  Gregory. Put in the red spring from the 200 SK (it is for the accumulator valve) That will give you 11 pounds. I have gone up to a 16 pound spring with no ill effects. It will also raise LU and you will have a stronger apply. Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Wed Jun 7 16:36:11 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, vibration during lock-up

  jim thans for the info i used the red spring like u said that did the trick thanks again.

  Gregory Gaal
  gregg505@aol.com

FIX;

problem was fixed thanks again jim closing thread now.

Gregory Gaal
gregg505@aol.com

QUESTION:

Mileage: 250,000

Repair History: overhauled this trans about a year ago and it has worked fine.

Work Completed: verify complaint works great untill you go full throttle

Summary: if you shift this transmission into nuetral reverse or park, then go back to drive it works fine again. untill you go full throttle. What do you say guys? any help here. my plan is to pull the valve body and look at the t.v. plunger.

Jeff Anglesey
oldtimer57@hotmail.com

RESPONSES;

• Date: Wed Feb 2 09:18:19 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Max t.v. after full throttle
  You're headed in the right direction, but it won't be the plunger, it'll be the throttle valve. You might want to put a spring on it, available at most trans. suppliers.

  Frank Choate
  jfranklinc@aol.com

• Date: Wed Feb 2 09:51:40 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Max t.v. after full throttle
  Hello Jeff! I would install a no stick TransGo TV valve. Also drill TV balance in plate to 0,055" Hope this helps Rosi germany

  Falk Rossberg
  falkrossberg@t-online.de

• Date: Wed Feb 2 10:10:34 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Max t.v. after full throttle
  Jeff, Drill TV balance hole in spacer plate to 0.55". This was a common problem on all GM TV cable controled trannys. They will work fine until a full throttle downshift is completed. I hope this helps.

  Robert Bruce
  robertlb@ev1.net

FIX;

replace case and valve body

Jeff Anglesey
apautooldtimer57@aol.com

QUESTION:

Mileage: all

Repair History: none

Work Completed: none

Summary: looking for interchange. for years I have interchanged these never worring about it just aux valvebody and none. then pwm . I have a bunch of core stuff, and want to build some completes. as I look I see a area around the screen on the cover that on some have a hole with a orface plug in it. others have a dam then that hole is not pluged. it looks like a guy could miss match and have a severe leak of pressure. has any one had any experance with this? Jeff

Jeff Anglesey
apautooldtimer57@aol.com

RESPONSES;

• Date: Fri Mar 31 16:44:16 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, looking for pump interchange
  Jeff; ATSG bulletins # 87-13 and 97-02 give a lot of information on this subject.

  Gary Glaenzer
  glaenzer@csj.net

FIX;

thanks for all your help

Jeff Anglesey
apautooldtimer57@aol.com

QUESTION:

Mileage: 120,000

Repair History: none

Work Completed: Balanced rear driveshaft twice, replaced rear shaft. Changed all mounts, changed pinion angle.

Summary: I am posting this for a friend. This all wheel drive van has a vibration that starts around 40 mph and doesnt go away. You can feel it right through the floor and seat (swear it was drivesahaft).if you remove the front shaft, nothing changes. He phoned a gm techline and they said something about a transfer case bulletin concerning this. Anyone heard of this. Any fresh ideas appreciated.

Mike Quigley
mikeq@netcom.ca

RESPONSES;

• Date: Sat May 13 19:41:06 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, vibration at 40 mph
  Please listen (read) very carefully what I'm going to tell you. I'm speaking from 6 years experience with these pigs. The Chev Astro is probably the WORST p.o.s. for trying to fight a vibration, and I had fought many when I was at the dealership! And the AWD version just makes the job twice as hard! The damn engineers at GM don't even know what to do with the things. Many, Many hours have been spent on these. If your friend doesn't have a lot invested in this job, tell him to walk away now, while he still can. But,,,,,,,if you insist,,,,,the ONLY way you can get the rear shaft balanced, is on the vehicle! let me say that again. YOU HAVE TO BALANCE THE REAR SHAFT ON THE VEHICLE!! And the only accurate way to do this is with an electric reed tach. And they are in excess of $1200.00. That is the only way I (and many others) have been sucessful. You say that with the front shaft removed, there is no difference? Are you sure? If it has that old style front shaft, that can give a lot of trouble also. I wish you, or your friend all the luck on this one, but sometimes it's better to walk away. You can call me at the shop about this if you like. 763-241-8199

  Darwin Upton
  darwank@usinternet.com

• Date: Mon May 15 18:32:53 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, vibration at 40 mph
  Hi Mike... I use to work for a Chevy dealer,and had one of those AWD Astros give me the same problem. After replacing the front prop shaft with the updated version, the vibration was still there!! I called the tech line several times, and they had me replace the viscous clutch in the T/C,replace rear axle ring and pinion and all bearings,then replace the complete axle assembly with a brand new one,replace the front prop shaft again,and then they sent out a field tech. He had the vibration totally gone in less than 1 hour with 2 hose clamps on the front shaft!! By using the EVA tool, we found the problem was in the front drive-line, and the way he explained it to me was that even though we added the hose clamps to the front shaft, it didn't mean the shaft was out of balance,just that we used the front shaft in order to balance the complete front driveline. ie: front shaft,front axles,carrier,ring,pinion all as an assembly.I don't know if you have an EVA tool, but it sure did the trick! Once knowing how to read and understand the data it gives you, I don't believe theres a vibration that couldn't be fixed with it! I'll be anxious to hear what you ended up doing to fix this monster!! Good luck...

  Pete Morgan
  pjm59@worldpath.net

FIX;

No fix. just closing thread.

Mike Quigley
mikeq@netcom.ca

QUESTION:

Repair History: Rebuilt unit 3 years ago

Work Completed: Unit needs OH. Rebuilding now

Summary: This truck has been converted from a diesel to 454 w/Edelbrock high rise manifold, and performer carb (kinda' like a Carter AFB) TV cable is all cobbled up, and I'm sure improper tv pressure is the reason for unit failure. What is the rule of thumb when trying to get the cable mounting bracket, and angle of throttle lever set right? Why do people have to butcher thier cars???? Thanks Pat@Transmission Technicians Niles,MI

Patrick Chamberlain
patrickcpatman@aol.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Wed Jun 21 05:48:00 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, aftermarket carb/TV setting

  Pat, We usually install a universal cable so we can adjust the center distance from the bracket. We then use a tv cable kit part#81-909S from transtar which is a spring/retainer carb end. This combination will cure your problem. Etranz

  Ernest Spear
  etranz49@gte.net

• Date: Wed Jun 21 07:44:19 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, aftermarket carb/TV setting

  Patrick, We did an 88 diesel to 454 conversion 2 years ago. Fought the TV adjustment for DAYS!! Napa has a cool cable bracket available, part # 7352458. Good luck !

  Jeff Johnson
  pctm@turbonet.com

FIX:

I think I got enough info Thanks all!

Patrick Chamberlain
patrickcpatman@aol.com

QUESTION:

Mileage: NA

Repair History: Not Known

Work Completed: None

Summary: This man who owns this Astro van is coming in AM to buy a 700R4 I have built for stock. My question is my valve body has only 1 switch, his is unknown. Should I pull his valve body and electric and switch to my trans if there is a difference or will it work anyway. I have this feeling it won't work!!! I need an answer right away!!!

Larry Williams
maxiepoo2000lw@netscape.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Thu Apr 27 21:30:24 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, 700r4 valve bodies
  Valvebody, Governor and Pressure Regulator lineup should all be changed from old trans to new trans or you could encounter shift problems. Don't forget to swap the speedo too.

  Donald Stone
  aaatrans@treco.net

• Date: Fri Apr 28 06:37:13 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, 700r4 valve bodies
  To add to what Donald Stone said. On the 4x4, not sure about 2x4, the cases are narrower where the torque converter cover bolts on. The cover bolts on with 4 bolts instead of 6 bolts.

  Dale Blake
  dblake@telusplanet.net

• Date: Sat Jun 10 12:32:38 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  Gary: Hindsight is always 20/20, so I will wait to tell you how I handle the situation you are in (business-wise) and only deal with the techncial issue at hand. Carburator geometry is critial for proper pressure rise. 132psi @ WOT is not enough. From your description, it seems like you have a slow, or lazy, pressure rise. I would be willing to bet the 4X4 truck does not have the factory intake, carb, or linkage & bracket. -or- a combination of the previously mentioned. Questions to help the group diagnose your problem: 1. Does it have a 2-1 forced downshift? 2. Is the carb, intake, TV/throttle bracked & TV cable OEM? After we have that information, we can intelligently help you out of the bind you're in. Anxiously Awaiting To Help You,

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

• Date: Sat Jun 10 22:31:07 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  Hi Gary, With these early 700's I would use Gils noyoyo kit,this kit fixes alot of the shift timing problems as well as be able to void(block off) the tcc solenoid so that lock up works without being commanded electrically (it takes longer to fit than the jnr but its worth the extra effort). Your line pressure rise is lazy (considering the jnr kit increases line pressure by about 15% from std)so you need to address that problem maybe it is in the cable set up and that may cure the shift flair,try the max test making sure the cable/tv is at full travel.The third flair could also be caused by the check ball capsule in the servo housing if it is worn it may be affecting the shift timing from 2nd to 3rd,you can change the capsule (differcult while in the vehicle)or fit a sonnax check valve #77701-076 behind the capsule to correct the timing of the shift(you can also increase the third orifice in the v/b plate to get quicker/firmer apply.Also the .100" 3/4 clutch clearance would probably not be helping,I like to run .025"-.040".Hope this helps you out,good luck! Regards Kim PS. With the Jnr Kit I've never been able to fit the spacer washer behind the 2nd servo I always end up grinding the apply pin down to get the band clearance right(1/16" pin travel).

  Kim Walton
  citytrans@webscene.com.au

• Date: Sun Jun 11 10:27:44 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  Gary, the tv rise problem needs to addressed first.You need to check the tv geometry and correct it in order to go any further.#1 make sure the carb has full throttle with the pedal to the floor and fixed if not so. #2 with the throttle at wot the tv cable must be pulled to max movement and you should check this with the pan off for a visual conformation and correct it or you will be chasing your tail. You didn't tell us what carb was being used on this truck,If it is a holley some of them had the wrong ratio for the tv cable pull pin ,to far away or close to thr throttle shaft center line.Sonnax makes a corrector lever for this but it may not be right for this. If the carb is oem replacment rochester you should be ok. Once the tv relationship is good 68# min line is ok but max line shuold go to around 175 -210 psi in drive and 90psi min and 250-275 psi max line in reverse.Don't try to fix shift problems until line rise and fall is correct ,again tail chasing syndrome. I too like close tolerances on the 3-4's around .025-.040.This will help reduce 2-3 flairs but not fix them. the vette piston will correct most 2-3 flairs but not all of them. If you reset the 3-4's you will be happier with the results from the vette piston route. The 3-4 shift valve assy may not be needed once the line rise is working .The truck should have the needed electrical to work the T/C if it still works and if not use the tech and parts in the 700 green box kit to make it work and calibrate it to the desired road speeds.In the younger kit hole C is 3rd gear feed and to big of a hole (more than .110 ) will make 3rd soft or loose felling at light to med throttle and stay around .083 - .086 on hole B . I hope this helps

  Dwight Armstrong
  dlarmst@juno.com

UPDATE:

Rechecked Line Pressure With new gauge. 65# at Idle in N. Full TV at Idle in N. 160#. Same Readings in DR. Rev. 105# Idle, 230# Full TV. Carb. is Quadrajet, Braket is off factory Engine, pulled pan to make sure Cable was pushing plunger all the way in at full throttle and it is. It does do a Forced 2-1 downshift. The trans is a TK type 1 Wiring in the ATSG Manual, For help on Tcc, Ordered Vette Servo and sonnax valve will install on arrival, Is that Gils noyoyo kit something I should do instead of wiring through brake and pressure switch on VB ?? Also I found that the filter was very loose in pump bore and O-ring, will replace.Thank so for for the help.

Gary Nelson
nelsonauto@hotmail.com

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Mon Jun 12 12:30:04 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  The large green Transgo kit works very good, especially in the early units that used all the valves. I prefer to set them up with the diesel/ 2.8 springs in all of them as it makes for a slightly later 3-4 and lock up. I do not like the way they work with the check ball installed in the TCC solenoid, although the trans will work. They work much nicer especially on on forced downshifts if you take the time and correct the TCC electrical system properly.

  David Schaffel
  dbschaffel@home.com

• Date: Mon Jun 12 21:00:00 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  Gary, when I build most any non-aux unit I will use the noyoyo kit and the 700-JR on the aux units. The only time I really use the lock-up bypass is when the car is not equipt for it or it dosen't work otherwise I try to use the factory stuff. Now I was fliping through my car mags. and low and behold a company called painless wiring build a kit for the GM lock up control around ...oh hell now I can't find it O well

  Dwight Armstrong
  dlarmst@juno.com

UPDATE:

Got a Problem installing sonnex valve 77701-076, per instructions tapered end of valve installs into case,and should be driven in flush with or in a little from valve body surface, OK, My hole is to big valve slides up hits capsule and will fall back out. What's the Problem?????

Gary Nelson
nelsonauto@hotmail.com

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Sat Jun 17 02:05:37 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  Hi Gary, I don't know why the sonnax servo check valve is loose in the case never had that problem.Obviosly you can't use it in this trans.I would extract the capsule and fit a new one.You can exact it using a 5/16 tap or a #5 easy out and a small slide hammer and install it using a old 700 PR valve as a driver and when the wide end of the valve is flush with the case the capsule is installed correctly, learnt this trick from Jim III.Hope this helps you out,good luck!!! Regards Kim

  Kim Walton
  citytrans@webscene.com.au

UPDATE:

Sonnex Valve, Welded end and remachined, hole in case was .010 bigger then valve, Valve worked fine after welding, If valve didn't fit, I figured the capsule wouldn't, so I tried this and it worked. Also found out that friend of customer, Installed His own design VB spacer plate, Left out Detent and low Check ball and install Spring first then piston in 3-4 Accmulator, anyone done this??, and way. Only thing I could see he did on plate was open 2-3 feed to .140 witch is Ok now, since I am Installing Corvette servo and Sonnex valve, Trans is a Tk 1983, Still Need to Know how to hook wires to pressure valves on VB for TCC, No longer has computor, Thanks for help so far.

Gary Nelson
nelsonauto@hotmail.com

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Sun Jun 18 14:24:53 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  Gary: If I understand you correctly, you are asking how to connect the wires on a unit that is no longer computer controlled. It doesn't matter. If the electrical system is no longer functioning, it is a futile attempt. On such units, I use TransGo's Shift Kit and put a 5/16" checkball in the snout of the TCC solenoid as instructed. However, if you use the checkball in the snout of the TCC solenoid w/o the the Shift Kit, I have experienced L/U right on top of 2nd. Plus, there is no part-throttle release of the TCC. Just break down on Monday and order the TransGo Senior Shift Kit (not the Junior). It will make life wonderful; I promise. Also, with this kit, and no functional computer system, you can put 1/8" pipe plugs in all of the electrical switch holes in the valve body....clip the wires off the TCC solenoid, and forget about any electrical problems, FOREVER. :-) Sincerely,

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

• Date: Sun Jun 18 20:01:19 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  Gary In addition to what Larry said, make sure the valve body you are using has a lock-up shift valve. If it does not have a lock-up shift valve the trans will lock-up on top of the 1-2 shift. Use the heavy lock-up spring in the Shift Kit. A corvette servo may make your 2-3 flair worse. A Sonnax servo valve may correct your problem. If you use a Corvette servo, don't forget to drill out the Sonnax valve if you have to use one.

  Jim Eberhart
  eberhart@efortress.com

• Date: Mon Jun 19 05:04:07 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  Hi Gary, I just read your last update and it seems that there is alot more problems in this trans due to your customers friend mucking around with things.I just love these ones:-( This is what you could try,if you fitted a junior kit set it up exactly how the instructions show (green box would be my first choice), correct anything that has been changed by the customers friend.Your original flare was more than likley caused by the 3/4 feed being drilled to .140 (are you sure this guy hasn't drilled anything else? maybe you should replace the plate) anything over .090 can give you problems in this area unless you correct it, a sonnax valve check valve will do this,this trans will have a harsh 3rd shift at .140,I only go this far in a high performance application ,then when you add a corvette servo(don't forget to re drill the sonnax valve to suit) to that it will have a fairly bumpy 2nd shift as well,is this what your customer is looking for? If you what to carm it down then you can go down on the 3/4 feed .110-.120 with the sonnax valve and run a 4L60E 553 servo piston (better apply than the original 544 servo piston but not bumpy). In regards to setting up the lock up electrics,I think another member posted some info on that one,might be worth going back through the replies.Hope you can get this one down the road soon,good luck! Regards Kim

  Kim Walton
  citytrans@webscene.com.au

FIX;

Thank You All that helped !!! I installed Gils Noyoyo, a 093 vette servo, had to make sonnex 3-4 accum. valve fit passage, and redesigned TV sleeve as described in one of your fixes,Trans works fine. Found more things Costomers friend did, thing you may not normally see. Again Thank You!!!!

Gary Nelson
nelsonauto@hotmail.com

PROBLEM / FIX:

Problem / Fix: Here's another discovery by accident. We had rebuilt this transmission in a 1984 Surburban w/ 6.2 diesel and on the test drive discovered that we had hard, nearly chirp the tires hard, 1-2 shift. First we had a TV cable problem creating high line pressure, but after that was fixed we still had a hard 1-2 shift. Pulling down the valve body revieled that we had put a 3-4 shift spring in the 1-2 accumulator valve accidently while trying to recalibrate for a piston change. I've used valve body kits before that would give a very firm 1-2 shift but this unit had a greater change in that spring than I've felt in doing a complete kit. No blocking off the accumulator piston or drilling out excessive holes.

Jimmy Taylor
odie@gci.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: 142000

Repair History: Trans rebuilt at 116000 went 16000 and had a lock up shudder replaced ness parts and now its back with same problem with only 14000

Work Completed: Cut converter apart and found clutch coming apart

Summary: Has any one had this problem? Any info will be of great help

James Schuler
goldenboys5@uswest.net

RESPONSES;

FIX;

Replaced pump

James Schuler
goldenboys5@uswest.net

QUESTION:

Repair History: rebuilt trans ,rear planet was gone do to lube problem rebult checked cooler flow

Work Completed: came back afeter less than 100 miles planet melt down no lube to gear train , clutches and band like new

Summary: what are we missing here

William Brenzel
gbren1425@aol.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Mon Jun 19 21:29:01 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, planet melt down

  William, How about some details for us on what if any hardparts were used to build this thing 100 miles ago and what softparts used also this will help us help you better.

  Dwight Armstrong
  dlarmst@juno.com

• Date: Mon Jun 19 21:40:02 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, planet melt down

  Wrong lube dam seal in input drum, feed holes plugged in output shaft,, too much endplay, worn bushings. That is if cooler is still flowing OK. Also rear planet with oil deflector MUST be used with matching beveled support.

  Chuck Clampitt
  mrshift@starcomm.net

• Date: Mon Jun 19 21:47:52 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, planet melt down

  Hi William, I would check to make sure all your lube passages are clear in the output shaft. Double check the seal in the input drum. I think at this point, I would bypass the original cooler with a Tru-Cool. Good luck!

  Daniel Wills
  danwills@mindspring.com

• Date: Mon Jun 19 21:58:14 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, planet melt down

  When you havbe this kind of problem it makes good sense to change allthe bushings in the trans. Anopther thiong that I would do is to check the output shaft oiling ports to make sure that they are all clear . The third thing I would do is to make sure that cooling system is clear all the way from the outlet line to the cooler and then back into the trans. arIzzOna kid no I did'nt spell arIzzOna wrong .

  Ronald Izzo
  i220@juno.com

• Date: Mon Jun 19 22:29:13 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, planet melt down

  William, Take your output shaft and feed solvent into the top of it and see if it flows through every hole. Then do the same with the input drum where the lube seal rides. There must be a restriction in those two shafts. If not, check stator busings and tube for ring grooves. What condition was the lube seal when you pulled it back out? If it was tore up, suspect worn bushings. Did your planet train match up correctly? Another thing about the lube seals, since they came out with "lip seal", I have noticed more meldowns more so than the solid ones. They seem to be less tolerent of bushing wear than the solid types. If my kit only comes with the lip seal, I would hunt me down a solid type. In my mind, this is strictly a mechicanical problem since it only lasted 100 miles. I hpoe this helps. Butch

  Butch Vipperman
  rvipperman@kimbanet.com

• Date: Mon Jun 19 22:42:08 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, planet melt down

  Number one killer of planetaries is that plastic, serrated, (whatever the hell it is) that is in the input housing and mates with the output housing. Replace on every job. The older ones were white in color and the newer ones are red in color. Now the lube hole for the red (pink) has been moved and you are supposed to replace with that color only. (Do not know if this is true). Anytime I have a burned planet, it gets a Tru-Cool mounted separate from the radiator. Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Mon Jun 19 22:43:44 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, planet melt down

  Bill: I think what everybody else said pretty much covers it all, but I though I would give you some thoughts. COOLER ISSUE: Unless your factory cooler was severely restricted, or the cooler lines were pinched almost shut, I don't see how the rear planet could crap out in only 100 miles. INPUT DRUM LUBE SEAL ISSUE: Unlike a lot of transmissions, the 700 gets fed it's lube from the front of the input shaft and the rear planet is at the end of the circuit. So what everybody is saying about bushings, oil holes, and the lube seal boils down to making sure you are loosing lube somewhere because the rear planet is at the "end of the line" as far as the rear lube circuit is concerned. WORTH MENTIONING: The is a bulletin our showing that GM changed the location of the lube hole in the front of the output shaft where it meets the input drum lube seal. Make sure you don't have a mis-match between the output shaft and lube seal. Good Luck,

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

• Date: Mon Jun 19 23:21:32 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, planet melt down

  William, You've probably already checked this, but sometimes I have seen a trans get trashed and pack the shafts full and no lube can get through them. I have had some that I had to actually dig the trash out of them. Good Luck.

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

• Date: Tue Jun 20 01:50:47 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, planet melt down

  Hi William, What everyone else said, plus... How is the vehicle used? If for some reason this is pushed to the point that it is under heavy load and L/U doesn't engage, this can happen. In some cases what is required is a lower rear axle ratio. Also, did you grind the PR valve as per the Shift Kit instructions?

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Tue Jun 20 04:52:22 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, planet melt down

  Once you get this unit back into the vehicle, it's time to check the real flow of oil that's returning to the trans for lube. I just recently got a SonnaFlow & I don't know how I ever got along without it(especially for no more than it costs). When it comes down to it, I think you are going to find the pump on this thing, even though it looks good, has a poor output after it gets Hot. Combine that along with end clearence and bushing problems and you have the recipe for disaster. Most all 700's have way too much, Rear drivetrain end clearence is often looked, Slow Down, take a deep breath, and fix this thing!

  Jeffery Funk
  shiftkit@specialtytrans.com

• Date: Tue Jun 20 05:17:06 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, planet melt down

  Hi William We once replaced the stater in a 4L60 pump and found that the lube hole hadn't been drilled in it. It made it about 60 miles before it melted. If you repalced the stater in your pump then you should install it in the case and blow through the cooler oil return fitting to see if lube oil is passing through. Hope this helps. Kit

  Kit Lindsay
  lindsay2@sprintmail.com

• Date: Tue Jun 20 05:20:40 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, planet melt down

  origanly overhualed with rear planet, reverse drum , forward drum, do too cracks inside .overhaul kit and converter

  William Brenzel
  gbren1425@aol.com

• Date: Tue Jun 20 05:38:31 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, planet melt down

  Bill: What Leo said triggered a thought in my head. If the PR valve is not ground (line-to-lube modification), if the PR valve stays closed, or mostly closed, for ANY reason, it automatically shuts off lube oil by design. Just a thought worth mentioning. Sincerely,

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

• Date: Wed Jun 21 17:15:15 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, planet melt down

  hi bill, i think u got some good info from everybody so far i just read that u replaced the forward drum was this a used one? maybe u got a bad one something wrong with lube circut on it, also talking about those lube seals ive been using the brass seals in there had no problems and holds output shaft in line pretty good.

  Gregory Gaal
  gregg505@aol.com

UPDATE:

hooked up cooler line flusher that has line flow presure test with heated fluid , when the temp of fluid would rise the cooler flow would drop , my guess is this could be the hole problem.

William Brenzel
gbren1425@aol.com

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Thu Jun 22 09:02:47 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, planet melt down

  Because the flusher flow readings will Lie to you, do yourself a favor & buy a sonnaflow, NOT A AD ! I don't know how We ever got along without it! Jeff

  Jeffery Funk
  shiftkit@specialtytrans.com

FIX:

checked cooler flow , presure wnt down when hot replace with true cooler. vehicle went out and hasnt been back for over a week

William Brenzel
gbren1425@aol.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: I Rebuild Trans, Customer installed, When I Sonic cleaned it,Printed on top it said Remanufactoried For GM

Work Completed: Main line pressure test at Idle 68# and at Full TV 132# This seem OK, Trans Was buildt stock with a 700 Jr installed I did not install washer spacer in servo, was to tight, could not turn output shaft.

Summary: The owner put in a Carb. engine diched computor so I need to Know how to hook up TCC. Its installed now, fuse to brake switch,Brake switch to A terminal, Trans shifts OK 1-2, shift into third at about 50 mph, Sometime not always, I'll get a Short Flair When Shifting to third under med to heavy Accel., One Thing I Know I Did And Will not Do Again is Let 3-4 Clearance stay at .100 The ATSG Book gave me Tolerance Of .049 to .113 so I let it go at that, I Read a 2-3 flair problem in Fixed Data and Iam Going to try a Corvette Servo, Also If Kevin Perkins Reads This, Your Info on OD shifting at any throttle is something I would like to try on this trans, Send Pictures If you Could, I Think the 4th shift when I let up on throttle is a Misadjusted TV Cable, Being It didnt stick When I Did Pressure Test. ? I am Hoping to fix With out taking Trans out to close up 3-4 clutch Clearance. Any Advice, Thanks, Nelsonauto@Hotmail.com

Gary Nelson
nelsonauto@hotmail.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Sat Jun 10 12:32:38 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  Gary: Hindsight is always 20/20, so I will wait to tell you how I handle the situation you are in (business-wise) and only deal with the techncial issue at hand. Carburator geometry is critial for proper pressure rise. 132psi @ WOT is not enough. From your description, it seems like you have a slow, or lazy, pressure rise. I would be willing to bet the 4X4 truck does not have the factory intake, carb, or linkage & bracket. -or- a combination of the previously mentioned. Questions to help the group diagnose your problem: 1. Does it have a 2-1 forced downshift? 2. Is the carb, intake, TV/throttle bracked & TV cable OEM? After we have that information, we can intelligently help you out of the bind you're in. Anxiously Awaiting To Help You,

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

• Date: Sat Jun 10 22:31:07 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  Hi Gary, With these early 700's I would use Gils noyoyo kit,this kit fixes alot of the shift timing problems as well as be able to void(block off) the tcc solenoid so that lock up works without being commanded electrically (it takes longer to fit than the jnr but its worth the extra effort). Your line pressure rise is lazy (considering the jnr kit increases line pressure by about 15% from std)so you need to address that problem maybe it is in the cable set up and that may cure the shift flair,try the max test making sure the cable/tv is at full travel.The third flair could also be caused by the check ball capsule in the servo housing if it is worn it may be affecting the shift timing from 2nd to 3rd,you can change the capsule (differcult while in the vehicle)or fit a sonnax check valve #77701-076 behind the capsule to correct the timing of the shift(you can also increase the third orifice in the v/b plate to get quicker/firmer apply.Also the .100" 3/4 clutch clearance would probably not be helping,I like to run .025"-.040".Hope this helps you out,good luck! Regards Kim PS. With the Jnr Kit I've never been able to fit the spacer washer behind the 2nd servo I always end up grinding the apply pin down to get the band clearance right(1/16" pin travel).

  Kim Walton
  citytrans@webscene.com.au

• Date: Sun Jun 11 10:27:44 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  Gary, the tv rise problem needs to addressed first.You need to check the tv geometry and correct it in order to go any further.#1 make sure the carb has full throttle with the pedal to the floor and fixed if not so. #2 with the throttle at wot the tv cable must be pulled to max movement and you should check this with the pan off for a visual conformation and correct it or you will be chasing your tail. You didn't tell us what carb was being used on this truck,If it is a holley some of them had the wrong ratio for the tv cable pull pin ,to far away or close to thr throttle shaft center line.Sonnax makes a corrector lever for this but it may not be right for this. If the carb is oem replacment rochester you should be ok. Once the tv relationship is good 68# min line is ok but max line shuold go to around 175 -210 psi in drive and 90psi min and 250-275 psi max line in reverse.Don't try to fix shift problems until line rise and fall is correct ,again tail chasing syndrome. I too like close tolerances on the 3-4's around .025-.040.This will help reduce 2-3 flairs but not fix them. the vette piston will correct most 2-3 flairs but not all of them. If you reset the 3-4's you will be happier with the results from the vette piston route. The 3-4 shift valve assy may not be needed once the line rise is working .The truck should have the needed electrical to work the T/C if it still works and if not use the tech and parts in the 700 green box kit to make it work and calibrate it to the desired road speeds.In the younger kit hole C is 3rd gear feed and to big of a hole (more than .110 ) will make 3rd soft or loose felling at light to med throttle and stay around .083 - .086 on hole B . I hope this helps

  Dwight Armstrong
  dlarmst@juno.com

UPDATE:

Rechecked Line Pressure With new gauge. 65# at Idle in N. Full TV at Idle in N. 160#. Same Readings in DR. Rev. 105# Idle, 230# Full TV. Carb. is Quadrajet, Braket is off factory Engine, pulled pan to make sure Cable was pushing plunger all the way in at full throttle and it is. It does do a Forced 2-1 downshift. The trans is a TK type 1 Wiring in the ATSG Manual, For help on Tcc, Ordered Vette Servo and sonnax valve will install on arrival, Is that Gils noyoyo kit something I should do instead of wiring through brake and pressure switch on VB ?? Also I found that the filter was very loose in pump bore and O-ring, will replace.Thank so for for the help.

Gary Nelson
nelsonauto@hotmail.com

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Mon Jun 12 12:30:04 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  The large green Transgo kit works very good, especially in the early units that used all the valves. I prefer to set them up with the diesel/ 2.8 springs in all of them as it makes for a slightly later 3-4 and lock up. I do not like the way they work with the check ball installed in the TCC solenoid, although the trans will work. They work much nicer especially on on forced downshifts if you take the time and correct the TCC electrical system properly.

  David Schaffel
  dbschaffel@home.com

• Date: Mon Jun 12 21:00:00 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  Gary, when I build most any non-aux unit I will use the noyoyo kit and the 700-JR on the aux units. The only time I really use the lock-up bypass is when the car is not equipt for it or it dosen't work otherwise I try to use the factory stuff. Now I was fliping through my car mags. and low and behold a company called painless wiring build a kit for the GM lock up control around ...oh hell now I can't find it O well

  Dwight Armstrong
  dlarmst@juno.com

UPDATE:

Got a Problem installing sonnex valve 77701-076, per instructions tapered end of valve installs into case,and should be driven in flush with or in a little from valve body surface, OK, My hole is to big valve slides up hits capsule and will fall back out. What's the Problem?????

Gary Nelson
nelsonauto@hotmail.com

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Sat Jun 17 02:05:37 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  Hi Gary, I don't know why the sonnax servo check valve is loose in the case never had that problem.Obviosly you can't use it in this trans.I would extract the capsule and fit a new one.You can exact it using a 5/16 tap or a #5 easy out and a small slide hammer and install it using a old 700 PR valve as a driver and when the wide end of the valve is flush with the case the capsule is installed correctly, learnt this trick from Jim III.Hope this helps you out,good luck!!! Regards Kim

  Kim Walton
  citytrans@webscene.com.au

UPDATE:

Sonnex Valve, Welded end and remachined, hole in case was .010 bigger then valve, Valve worked fine after welding, If valve didn't fit, I figured the capsule wouldn't, so I tried this and it worked. Also found out that friend of customer, Installed His own design VB spacer plate, Left out Detent and low Check ball and install Spring first then piston in 3-4 Accmulator, anyone done this??, and way. Only thing I could see he did on plate was open 2-3 feed to .140 witch is Ok now, since I am Installing Corvette servo and Sonnex valve, Trans is a Tk 1983, Still Need to Know how to hook wires to pressure valves on VB for TCC, No longer has computor, Thanks for help so far.

Gary Nelson
nelsonauto@hotmail.com

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Sun Jun 18 14:24:53 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  Gary: If I understand you correctly, you are asking how to connect the wires on a unit that is no longer computer controlled. It doesn't matter. If the electrical system is no longer functioning, it is a futile attempt. On such units, I use TransGo's Shift Kit and put a 5/16" checkball in the snout of the TCC solenoid as instructed. However, if you use the checkball in the snout of the TCC solenoid w/o the the Shift Kit, I have experienced L/U right on top of 2nd. Plus, there is no part-throttle release of the TCC. Just break down on Monday and order the TransGo Senior Shift Kit (not the Junior). It will make life wonderful; I promise. Also, with this kit, and no functional computer system, you can put 1/8" pipe plugs in all of the electrical switch holes in the valve body....clip the wires off the TCC solenoid, and forget about any electrical problems, FOREVER. :-) Sincerely,

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

• Date: Sun Jun 18 20:01:19 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  Gary In addition to what Larry said, make sure the valve body you are using has a lock-up shift valve. If it does not have a lock-up shift valve the trans will lock-up on top of the 1-2 shift. Use the heavy lock-up spring in the Shift Kit. A corvette servo may make your 2-3 flair worse. A Sonnax servo valve may correct your problem. If you use a Corvette servo, don't forget to drill out the Sonnax valve if you have to use one.

  Jim Eberhart
  eberhart@efortress.com

• Date: Mon Jun 19 05:04:07 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 Flair,OD backoff Acell

  Hi Gary, I just read your last update and it seems that there is alot more problems in this trans due to your customers friend mucking around with things.I just love these ones:-( This is what you could try,if you fitted a junior kit set it up exactly how the instructions show (green box would be my first choice), correct anything that has been changed by the customers friend.Your original flare was more than likley caused by the 3/4 feed being drilled to .140 (are you sure this guy hasn't drilled anything else? maybe you should replace the plate) anything over .090 can give you problems in this area unless you correct it, a sonnax valve check valve will do this,this trans will have a harsh 3rd shift at .140,I only go this far in a high performance application ,then when you add a corvette servo(don't forget to re drill the sonnax valve to suit) to that it will have a fairly bumpy 2nd shift as well,is this what your customer is looking for? If you what to carm it down then you can go down on the 3/4 feed .110-.120 with the sonnax valve and run a 4L60E 553 servo piston (better apply than the original 544 servo piston but not bumpy). In regards to setting up the lock up electrics,I think another member posted some info on that one,might be worth going back through the replies.Hope you can get this one down the road soon,good luck! Regards Kim

  Kim Walton
  citytrans@webscene.com.au

• Date: Thu Jun 22 06:52:51 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Repeted broken Flywheel

  John: Converter runout, as in the 3 pads aren't running true. Drilling line-to-lube and having wide fluctuations in the converter pressure. Bent or out-of-square flywheel mounting flange on the crankshaft. Hey.....gotta go....I'll finish this up later..

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

• Date: Thu Jun 22 21:03:52 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Repeted broken Flywheel

  Hi John, Is it breaking around the crankshaft or at the converter bolts? I would suspect a high frequency vibration. Sincerely.

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

• Date: Thu Jun 22 21:43:02 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Repeted broken Flywheel

  John, I would be changing the torque converter and flywheel at this time. I feel you have a converter problem seeing you have checked everything else. Also be sure there is no pilot bushing in the back of the crank. I had a Ford Bronco 2 do this to us 4 times and finally changed the converter and it never came back and it was the original converter until the last flywheel. We assume that the converter was balloning and not able to move in and out of the crank on acceleration. Instead it flexed the flywheel until it broke the center out every time.

  Donald Stone
  aaatrans@treco.net

• Date: Fri Jun 23 00:29:03 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Repeted broken Flywheel

  John: Sorry I cut you off on my last post, but I had to go. The most important thing I wanted to say; I didn't because I had to go. Here's the deal: GM has some weird thought processes. On a lot of what I call "the flat-top bellhousing" applications, they have crankshaft spacers. This applies to rear and front wheel drive transmissions. There is a sintered iron insert (sort of looks like a pilot bushing for a standard, but not) that is pressed in the end of the crank. I have run into situations, especially with rebuilt cranks/motors where this is missing. This crankshaft spacer not only centers the flywheel to the crank, but it also is the pilot hole for the torque converter. Make sure the crankshaft spacer is in the end of the crank; not damaged; and not worn out. ATC sells these seperately, or you can get one from the dealer. As previously mentioned by Don Stone, inside this same spacer I'm speaking of, you could possibly have a standard transmission pilot bushing installed and not realize it. Before you install the transmission, I would take only the converter and see how it fits in the crank and against the flywheel WITHOUT the transmission. That will probably identify your problem. Sorry about taking so long to get back to you. Sincerely,

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

FIX:

I am sorry to say that I have no real fix. The customer came by in a new Yukon to pay her bill. All we did was replace the flywheel. I'm sure it will again. If you are car shopping in Maryland, beware of a blue and white Blazer.

John Lovell
ent@crosslink.net

QUESTION:

Repair History: rebuilt by someone else who changed the case to a auxillary case with non auxillary parts

Work Completed: changed back to a non auxillary case during the rebuilding of transmission and install a transgo jr 700 r4 kit.

Summary: this vehicle shifts too quick no matter where you set the throttle cable. put another throttle cable on this vehicle but did the same thing. any one out there who had this problem please, please help.

Janice Easter
hun6@juno.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Mon Jul 17 15:22:22 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, shifts too quick no matter where you set

  I had one do this several years ago and it turned out that someone had installed a 350 governor, or maybe it was a 400 governor with the gear changed. Cant remember. However...I changed the governor and cured the problem.

  Tommy Painter
  county9@yahoo.com

• Date: Mon Jul 17 15:45:22 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, shifts too quick no matter where you set

  One other thing if the gov, doesn't take care of it. Feel the cable and see if it might have too much tension. I have had some problems with the "no-stick" throttle vavle spring getting loose and stooping the stroke of the throttle valve. Good luck, Yogi

  Jeff White
  stealth@mscomm.com

• Date: Mon Jul 17 20:10:06 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, shifts too quick no matter where you set

  Janice: Put a pressure gage on this pupply and get back with readings. If I had to make a guess, I would be looking at TV limit valve or TV valve stuck rearward. Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Tue Jul 18 00:01:05 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, shifts too quick no matter where you set

  Hi Janice, Check the governor to make sure it is free. If it is, try weaker governor springs. Good luck.

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

• Date: Tue Jul 18 06:33:40 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, shifts too quick no matter where you set

  I have not read this entire string, but the first thing i would check after all these other suggestions, is the valve body gaskets. 700"s can do weird things with wrong vb gaskets, reversed gaskets,and dont forget some 87"s that were not aux vb use aux vb gaskets. Good Luck!@

  Bruce Bekkerus
  a1mhd@aol.com

• Date: Tue Jul 18 10:24:57 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, shifts too quick no matter where you set

  Janice, If it's a 4x4 make sure it isn't in low range. I know my manager wouldn't know. Bill

  William Pihl
  drcheckball@webtv.net

• Date: Wed Jul 19 07:53:44 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, shifts too quick no matter where you set

  Hi there - the only thing I can think to add on this is regarding the transgo sk. Make sure you don't use the tv valve provided if your tv plunger is stamped with a 93. I did this a few years ago and for the life of me can't remember the resulting symptom except that it affected tv pressure. Good luck!

  Michelle Oberg
  trannychic@aol.com

UPDATE:

this vehicle originally had a 305 engine in it but the customer put a 350 engine with a 4 barrel elderbrock carburator. I have changed the governors and also put another cable on this vehicle. In rebuilding the unit I installed a rebuilt pump from Dacco/Detroit which in which I had to use my own valves (tv,lockup,etc) to complete the pump assembly. Also a torque converter was installed in here also. This vehicle makes me think that someone has died in this vehicle. My rebuilder has never had a 700 to kick him like this. I thank you all for your input but none has worked. He knows about the 93 tv. any other help you all can give me will be greatly appreciated.

Janice Easter
hun6@juno.com

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Wed Jul 19 09:57:42 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, shifts too quick no matter where you set

  I still would like to have some pressure readings. It would sure eliminate a lot of guessing. You mentioned that you put in another pump. Was the black filter that is on the outside of the pump reinstalled. The filter is black and about the size of a nickel. Not reinstalling this filter will cause the symptoms that you have. Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Wed Jul 19 10:46:40 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, shifts too quick no matter where you set

  Jim he has installed the black filter back in the pump. The line pressure readings are as follow: Idle---------90 Reverse------80 Drive--------80 Upshift------95 This vehicle rack test good but when you take it for a test drive the shifts are just too quick.

  Janice Easter
  hun6@juno.com

• Date: Wed Jul 19 11:03:57 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, shifts too quick no matter where you set

  Janice: Head right to the TV limit valve. Good luck, Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Wed Jul 19 12:21:45 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, shifts too quick no matter where you set

  Janice, Do you have line rise. pressure test and pull out the cable. If not the slide could be stuck in the pump.

  Steve Allbee
  sallbee@worldnet.att.net

• Date: Wed Jul 19 13:16:21 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, shifts too quick no matter where you set

  just had the same problem, replace the govenor with a new one

  Ernest Gaddis
  egaddis@bellsouth.com

FIX:

I would like to thank all that responded to my problem but special thanks goes to JimIII. The rebuilder put the wrong spring in the tv limit valve. This spring was in the transgo jr kit. Mixed with the accumulator spring I believe. Again, thank you Jim. This was the real fix.

Janice Easter
hun6@juno.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: Customer replaced dash with exchange unit because speedometer was working intermitant.

Work Completed: Installed Rebuilt trans. Road test confirmed no Lockup. Hooked up Shaeffer and confirmed the problem is not in the transmission. Scanner shows no vss signal and speedometer on scanner shows 0. Speedometer in dash works fine. Cruise Controol does not work.I have code 24 VSS circuit. I tried a known good ECM and same thing.

Summary: I believe my problem is somewhere in the DRAC. But I don,t get to work on the vehicles very often so I don,t know how to tell for sure.Maybe someone could help me out here? The customer is from out of town and wants his truck. If it is the DRAC he wants to get warranty from the place he got the dash from. Can I or should I connect the 4th gear switch directly to the ground side of the Lockup solenoid to get this guy going. What are the major side effects to doing this? I don't want to let him take his truck without lockup and he doesnt want to spend anymore time or money in this town if the problem was caused by the replacement dash. Thanks in advance. Dale Blake Elbow Automatic Transmissions Rocky Mountain House, Alberta,Canada Phone:403-845-2784 Fax: 403-845-4983 dblake@telusplanet.net

Dale Blake
dblake@telusplanet.net

RESPONSES:

• Date: Tue Jul 25 05:59:15 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Code 24 VSS circuit

  Hey, Dale: Dan Tucker ran in to this same problem a while back. Check out: http://www.transbuilder.com/trni/z_fix99/4l60a.html#50 He says the VSS wire breaks INSIDE the insulation and is very hard to diagnose. We had one that nearly ate us alive with the same problem. We sent ours to the dealer and they put in a new ECM, DRAC, and wiring harness. -PLUS- 2 VSSs. before they figured it out. The fix for this is listed in the TRNi Fix Database. Good Luck,

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

• Date: Tue Jul 25 07:29:53 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Code 24 VSS circuit

  Thanks Larry. I checked the fix database before I made a post. The first thing I checked was the wires under the vehicle. I pissed around pulling all the wires out of there looms and then realized I would not have a working speedometer if I had a broken wire. Thats the way I figure it anyway, I could be wrong. Dale Blake Elbow Automatic Transmissions Rocky Mountain House, Alberta,Canada Phone:403-845-2784 Fax: 403-845-4983 dblake@telusplanet.net

  Dale Blake
  dblake@telusplanet.net

• Date: Tue Jul 25 09:31:44 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Code 24 VSS circuit

  Dale, If this guy is beating you up to get his truck, I would wire it as you say to get L/U in 4th. I also would document the heck out of the procedure you went through, and have him agree to hold you harmless. I can see it now, the guy gets home 200,000 km from your shop, takes it to a local shop, then wants YOU to pay to "put it back the way it's supposed to be." Good luck!

  Jeff Johnson
  pctm@turbonet.com

• Date: Tue Jul 25 19:44:11 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Code 24 VSS circuit

  Dale, If I was the customer I would want my PCM to know the VSS. Because the scanner is not seeing the MPH, I doubt if the PCM realizes that the vehicle is really moving. Timing, fuel mileage, and all kinds of performance issues could come into play without a VSS in the PCM, beside the TCC apply. If this is indeed the case, fixing the problem becomes more important. I suspect that you have a problem in the wiring from the instrument cluster to the PCM. I'm not sure of the pin number at the cluster A17??, but the wire is brown (or brown/white) I think, and it runs to the PCM's pin A10. I've seen the wire broken at least twice. I never have dug into it to find out why, I just run a new wire. One last note, if the speedometer has been replaced, make sure it is the right one. MOST of the 1989 have the white bar behind the rib speedometer. The speedo needle looks like a picket fence. MOST the 1990 models have the white bar that is fully exposed with a bright red or orange line to show the speed. I know this sounds crazy but there are 2 different speedometers, and they will fit, but not work right. I think the buffer part is the only difference. I think the speedo by itself will interchange. We keep one of each in stock (used), so we can just slap it in when you need one. A lot of the problems with the clusters on these models is the connecter directly behind the speedo. You can easily remove speedo itself and tighten the connections on it. This fix is for the ones that the speedometer doesn't work. You know the kind you can slap the dash and they go to working.

  Dan Tucker
  transman@prodigy.net

FIX:

Well I did not repair the VSS problem. I did wire the lockup ground directly to the 4th gear switch. Thanks to those that replied.

Dale Blake
dblake@telusplanet.net

PROBLEM / FIX:

Problem / Fix: Can anyone tell me if there is a book or list of 700R4 transmission codes that will tell me what year and model the trans came from. I am dealing with trans that came out of unknown vehicles. I am just a home shop builder. I have done my own 700R4s but i would like to start setting up some for stock streetrod use. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Whitley Tabor
dodge312@home.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: None

Work Completed: O/H s/k Converter

Summary: When lock up comes on at 30mph it comes on top of 2-3 shift and becomes very harsh. Sometimes it comes on a 40 mph and it is fine. Whatinputs is the computer using to tell it to go into lock up. Thank you, Len

Leonard Marucci
len@kwiknet.net

RESPONSES:

• Date: Wed Jul 19 21:08:47 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Lock up Early 30 mph.

  Leonard: Being an 89, this should have the auxillary valve body. If this is so, then with the pan off, you will see the wires that go to the lockup solenoid, temp switch, which is 2 prong and is just held on by a bolt) and a pressure switch (the connector going to the switch should be green). First off, you must remember that "most" domestic vehicles ALWAYS have 12V going to everything, which means that most electrical components are live and the computer either decides to ground this device or just be informed that the devise has grounded itself (circuit completed and devise is activated). Now since you are locking up, that means the computer is sending the 12v, so lets concentrate on the pressure switch. I'm at home and my computer recently crashed, so I do not have access to the hydraulic diagrams that I want. I am working from memory and cannot remember which gear activates the pressure switch. If you will send me a reminder after 9AM EST, I will receive it at my office and will be able to respond with a more accurate fix. Good Luck. Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Thu Jul 20 06:42:49 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Lock up Early 30 mph.

  How is your throttle pressure? Might try increasing it.

  Dell Wellons
  woodchpr@worldnet.att.net

• Date: Wed Jul 26 17:59:51 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Lock up Early 30 mph.

  Hi Leo what I use to install I delayed lock up valve from G.M.these valve was for correct the problem on diesel units if you install the valve and gasoline applications is necesary to cut two o three coils of the spring is supply in the kit is all I remember for now good luck.

  Willie Torija
  wtori@prodigy.net

• Date: Thu Jul 27 00:02:30 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Lock up Early 30 mph.

  Hi Janice check to see if the valve body and gov. is not for a 6 cyl. this type of set up will cause a very early upshift specialy for 350 engine hope this can help.

  Willie Torija
  wtori@prodigy.net

FIX:

After I road tested it a few times, the lock up went up to 40 mph. I delivered the vehicle.

Leonard Marucci
len@kwiknet.net

PROBLEM / FIX:

Problem / Fix: Hi folks! After installing a lot of TransGo kits I readed in the instructions on the last page of the full kit something about a road test sheet and 4 work sheets that should included in the kit. Unfortunately I have had never a kit with this infos. TransGo told me they canceled this infos because of nobody wants them. Does anybody have this infos? It would be very helpfull to have it. Otherwise what are your recommend road test procedures on the 700? Any help would be great. Rosi germany

Falk Rossberg
falkrossberg@t-online.de

QUESTION:

Repair History: OH Unit 3 times and last time it got a purchased reman unit. Keeps coming back with same problem. Customer does not seem to abuse. He does light hauling (lawn mowers).

Work Completed: RB unit as outlined above

Summary: The fluid always seems to be full. We have an Aux Cooler and inline filter installed. We have never had this many repeat probs with a 700?? I was wondering if it is perhaps posible for the fluid to leak into the t-case and then back into the trans when sitting still causing the trans to RUN low on fluid but check ok. I know that sounds a little far fetched but I am grasping at straws here???

Joe Stewart
mjment@fuse.net

RESPONSES:

• Date: Mon Jul 31 19:58:48 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Repeat 3-4 Clutch Failure

  Joe If you haven't checked the tech tips or fix database at TRNi, then this would be a good time to do so. There are a lot of tips in there on this problem. Definately look at the input shaft seal of the transfer case, that year should be hard and brittle by now.

  Don Oremus
  dkoremus@execpc.com

• Date: Mon Jul 31 20:09:33 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Repeat 3-4 Clutch Failure

  Hi Joe- I've replaced a bunch of transfer case input seals on GM 4wd's, but I don't ever recall fluid leaking back into the tranny.It's always the other way..fluid leaks from trans.into transfer case. Do you have any pressure readings for us to go by? Cowbell

  Joey Campbell
  bccampbe@neocom.net

• Date: Mon Jul 31 20:15:02 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Repeat 3-4 Clutch Failure

  Joe: In my mind the worst customer that you can get are these guys that mow lawns in the summer and plow snow in the winter. If they do landscaping also, it is just a disaster waiting to happen. I get top buck from these people. Is your cooler being run separate from the radiator, if not please do this. Has the pressure regulator valve been modified by removing that one land for cooling. Always overfill this puppy by one inch on the stick. Lastly, they should be instructed to never, ever tow in OD. They always come into the shop pulling the little trailer and then one day you see them tooling down the road with that monster steamroller on it. Good Luck. Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Mon Jul 31 20:17:01 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Repeat 3-4 Clutch Failure

  Joe- Don Oremus is right...if the transfer case seal has'nt been replaced already,it should be.Willing to bet it's hard as a rock.I just have'nt seen one cause the fluid to come back into the tranny before. Cowbell

  Joey Campbell
  bccampbe@neocom.net

• Date: Mon Jul 31 21:44:10 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Repeat 3-4 Clutch Failure

  Hi Joe one of the bigest problem this unit has is a leak on the third accum. check ball, also the travel of the pin for 2nd. and 4rth remenber only .062" to apply is only thing I can remember, hope this help .

  Willie Torija
  wtori@prodigy.net

• Date: Tue Aug 1 01:43:06 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Repeat 3-4 Clutch Failure

  Hi Joe, Everyone has given excellent advise so far. You must get a gauge on this. If there is ANY delay in pressure rise compared to throttle (it should be like you have a string attached to the gauge from the peddle), the clutches will start to go, beginning with the 3-4's. Make sure that the 3rd accum capsule isn't leaking and good bushings, endplay and rings are essential to help keep the oil from crossleaking into/out of the input housing clutch packs. If you are POSITIVE that all of these are good, the TransGo Jr. Shift Kit would help cure the common problems on these trannies.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Tue Aug 1 04:17:09 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Repeat 3-4 Clutch Failure

  check tv cable geometry , tv cable isnt hooked to an edelbrock carborator is it?

  Donald Day
  trnsmaster@home.com

• Date: Tue Aug 1 07:18:16 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Repeat 3-4 Clutch Failure

  Joe, My best advice on this unit is to check pressures. But if you already have it apart, than take and remove the 3-4 acc. check ball in the servo area and plug it with a 400 park pawl plug, than build up your input housing and plug your bottom hole in the input shaft and inject air through the check ball in the housing, should hold air for 15 seconds minimum, also if there is a bleed hole near the input shaft about 1 1/2 inch away (has a plug with about a .020 hole) plug it with a bb ( you can get one ofthese from your kid) Also when air checking make sure there is no leaks around the input shaft where it's pressed into the housing ( put brake cleaner around it) Use only Borg plates in the 3-4's ) If the capsule with the check ball in the housing leaks you can get new ones #24208262 from GM.

  Steve Allbee
  sallbee@worldnet.att.net

• Date: Tue Aug 1 07:29:10 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Repeat 3-4 Clutch Failure

  Joe, one last thing, make sure and install the .500 boost valve and the biggest cooler Trucool makes.

  Steve Allbee
  sallbee@worldnet.att.net

• Date: Tue Aug 1 08:28:32 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Repeat 3-4 Clutch Failure

  Hi Joe If I'm reading your post in repair history,you rebuilt the trans 3 times and then bought a reman unit.I would think it's external if that's the case.The only things I can think of would be make sure it does go into LU,not just commanded. And put some preassure on the radiator,pump it up good and see if you still got cooler flow.On the transfer seal I've only seen it go to the transfer,if so much oil goes to transfer that it would cause transfer problems it should blow out the transfer vent.I change the seal every trans overhaul and use the double lip single seal type.Oh also on the inline filter, pull it off and check the pipe,make sure the pipe was reamed after the cut,it may have a very small orfice now. Hope this helps,See Ya Harold

  Harold Field
  trblshtr@tdstelme.net

FIX:

Pulled Unit back out and t-case front seal that was replaced twice(The double seal between the t-case and the unit) was as hard as a rock! We always change these things but I guess we got ahold of a bad one. Unit has obviously leaked into the t-case because the t-case was way overfull. The kicker is, the customer had a driver that had been adding atf and he did not tell us. So when we checked it and saw no leaks we assumed that is was not leaking. WRONG!! That was what was buring up the 3-4 clutches. He would run it low, fill it up and run it low again. Does not take long for the 3-4's to go in that scenario.

Joe Stewart
mjment@fuse.net

QUESTION:

Repair History: None

Work Completed: completely rebuilt transmission. new convertor

Summary: truck came in blowing out pump and vent. tore down found lock up solenoid bad. rebuilt transmission, new converter, new lock up solenoid. install all psi are good. test drove was all good locked up worked fine. release truck to customer. customer has 30' travel trailer hook up and got 7 miles down the freeway in 3rd gear with a 50 mph head wind and blew out the top vent. went to tow the truck back in and fluid was ok so I ask the customer to drive it back and no problems. unhooked trailer and test drove. everything is shifting great. what am I looking for to repair this problem.

Dennis Johnson
ace1@gorge.net

RESPONSES:

• Date: Sat Jul 22 22:56:32 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Blowing out top vent under tow load

  Dennis, put the biggest Tru-Cool transmission cooler that will fit in this puppy. Run it SEPARATE from the radiator. Be prepared to be amazed, you will drop around 100F of transmission operating temperature. Good Luck, Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Sun Jul 23 01:28:05 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Blowing out top vent under tow load

  Hi Dennis, 50 mph head wind and 30 foot travel trailer? That spells a very hot condition for the transmission. I agree with Jim, III put the biggest Tru-Cooler on this thing. I imagine if it had a trans temp gauge it would scare the owner out of his wits. Good Luck,

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

• Date: Sun Jul 23 04:03:58 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Blowing out top vent under tow load

  Hi Dennis, I couldn't agree more about using the TruCool LPD cooler but, you describe conditions where I'll bet the converter was not locked and therefore the cooler will not be enough. In extreme cases you may have to change other areas to make the trans live. What axle ratio does this have? You may have to lower it to keep the converter locked under those type of conditions. You will have to drive it with the trailer and see if it is staying locked under all conditions. Did you also grind the 2nd land on the PR valve? This will keep lube flowing if the converter is locked but the down side is that you lower the overall pressure when you do this. Although it won't help keep the unit locked under those conditions, you would be wise to install a TransGo Reprogramming Kit (too heavy of an application for just the SK)in this job to keep the frictions alive down the road. Make sure that the pump halves are flat, too.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Sun Jul 23 05:16:10 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Blowing out top vent under tow load

  D.J. What kind of trans fluid are you using? I have had this same problem and I corrected it with scyn, atf. I use Ansoil atf on all heavy duty and Chrys trans.

  Robert Kauffman
  fox2377@aol.com

• Date: Sun Jul 23 07:46:10 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Blowing out top vent under tow load

  Hi Dennis, I agree with the others bypass the radiator cooler, Tru-Cool makes a real nice large cooler 11x11x 11/2" I my opinion it is to heavy to mount to the radiator, use the straps that come with it and leave some room between the radiator and cooler, It works great. Also drill out the COOLER FEED HOLE IN THE PUMP TO .125 ( 1/8" ) I do this during every 700 rebuild, also grind off the #2 land of the pressure regulator valve and use the .500 ( 1/2" ) boost valve this will get the fluid flowing real good and keep that puppy from puking oil. Dave Foster d.b.a. The Transmission Technician 1312 Morningside, Dr. Melbourne, Fl. 32901 321-728-1155 AAMCO Master, A.T.R.A., & A.S.E. certified

  David Foster
  transtech@spacey.net

• Date: Sun Jul 23 16:40:58 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Blowing out top vent under tow load

  Hi Dennis- I am a little confused when you say "went to get truck,fluid O.K." Was the trans.full? If so,then is it possible that it may have been overfilled when it left the shop? I agree with JimIII that a large Tru-Cool aux.cooler should be installed...he's right about the drop in trans.temp. One other thing that I have noticed on most G.M.4X4 transfer cases is the input shaft seal is most always brittle after 75,000 mi.or so. That will let trans.fluid enter the transfer case,and many times cause the t.c.to leak from the vent,or will push out the plastic plug on the top. Hope this helps

  Joey Campbell
  bccampbe@neocom.net

• Date: Sun Jul 23 19:37:05 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Blowing out top vent under tow load

  Hi Dennis, had this problem and found thin o-ring in overrun clutch was torn. Hope this helps. DEL

  Delbert Gray
  delinpa@pa.net

• Date: Sun Jul 23 20:12:26 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Blowing out top vent under tow load

  Does truck have heavy duty trans cooler?If not this is very well could be your problem.Does fluid "foam up"?I have had this happen to me several times before and trans cooler fixed mine every time.Hope this helps.

  Mark Hall
  mark46martin@aol.com

• Date: Mon Jul 24 07:13:21 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Blowing out top vent under tow load

  Dennis, There's only a couple of things that'll cause this. The T/C airerating or a crossleak in the pump. Loose bushings in the stator support might cause it to aireate. And a crossleak in the pump will send pressurized oil right into the vent circuit. Follow the vent circuit through the case & into the pump. Look at the casting around the circuit. Are there any nicks? Or maybe it's just not flat. Since it doesn't do it cold or even at normal temps, an easy fix might be to thicken up the oil with some synthetic motor oil & install a cooler. Good Luck & let us know.

  Ted Turney
  tedeb@pacbell.net

• Date: Mon Jul 24 18:33:43 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Blowing out top vent under tow load

  WHAT SPEED ARE THEY GOING? ARE THEY TOWING IN OD OR 3(D) EARLY 700'S WOULD VENT WHEN TOWING IN OD BECAUSE THEY WOULD NOT HOLD IN LOCK-UP.

  Thomas Baldwin
  tb7ny@yahoo.com

FIX:

Install Larger cooler corrected all problems

Dennis Johnson
ace1@gorge.net

PROBLEM / FIX:

Problem / Fix: Wanted to say thanks to those who responded to my previous post on July 26.2000 for 700R4 trans identification codes. Recieved tremendous help from Mr. Glanzer in Illinois. My complements to TRNi for a great web site and to all those that post. You all are some of the most knowledgeable people that i have ever come across. Thanks again.

Whitley Tabor
dodge312@home.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: none

Work Completed: building trans

Summary: building a 700r4 for a 72 chevelle,customer does not want lock up,had a converter built with no clutch. is ther anything else that needs to be done in the trans when using a converter with no cluch?this is an early non aux. valvebody unit.anyone out ther do this before.i never built one with out a lockup cluch before and dont want any problems.using a 30,000lb cooler and ground the land off the pressure reg. valve.

Anthony Petti
sburnout@aol.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Thu Jul 20 16:28:51 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, using converter with no clutch

  Yes there is, but it's not a big deal. You have to put in a valve made by Transgo, in the pump where the lockup valve goes. And then take out the encapsilated checkball at the end of the input shaft, and leave the o-ring off. Of course I'm sure by now you realize you don't need the solenoid. :> Just make sure you use a good cooler.

  Darwin Upton
  darwank@usinternet.com

• Date: Thu Jul 20 16:30:04 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, using converter with no clutch

  Anthony, When doing this, you must use a valve in the pump to replace the CC valve. TransGo makes it. Ask your supplier........... Emory

  Don Emory
  mwolfing@vicon.net

• Date: Thu Jul 20 18:06:37 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, using converter with no clutch

  Ditto, transgo non lockup valve for pump reroutes converter & cooler flow correctly.

  Bernard Robbins
  gearbox@dellnet.com

• Date: Sat Jul 22 03:24:59 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, using converter with no clutch

  Hi Anthony, ASlong with the TransGo L/U valve, make SURE that this car has low rear gears (min. 3.73, 4.11 is better).

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

FIX:

thanks,used the transgo valve,worked fine!

Anthony Petti
sburnout@aol.com

PROBLEM / FIX:

Problem / Fix: Installed new Bryco stator support and had 3rd gear starts and bind up in manual low. The problem was a defective Bryco stator. There is a crossleak between the forward clutch feed and the 3-4 clutch feed underneath the pressed in steel sleeve in the stator due to poor casting. I called Bryco to inform them about the problem and at first they seemed unaware of the problem and said they would check into it and call me back, the next day after not hearing from them I called again and was told that there was indeed a problem and explained the casting flaw. He also said that they had 18 complaints about it. I would suggest that everyone aircheck their stators before installing them, I had 2 defective stators, one was purchased last week and the other about a month ago from ATC-METRAN. If Bryco had known about this they should at least notified us or their distributers.

Tom Whitty
twhitty@nji.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: rebuilt transmission

Work Completed: visual

Summary: we have a diesel suburban that has had the wiring removed for the lock-up. My question is . If we grind the land on the pressure regulator valve can we run without convertor lockup? and if not this is a 1982 vehicle so can we simply hook 12 volts to the connector on the transmission to have lock-up. We tried checkballing the solenoid but it really makes a pig out of it thanks

David Duste
dustman@wave.net

RESPONSES:

• Date: Wed Aug 23 18:37:17 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, no lock-up

  David, Is there a reason you don't want it to work as it was designed?

  Kenneth Hayes
  deranger@ipa.net

• Date: Wed Aug 23 20:14:38 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, no lock-up

  David There is an inexpensive kit available from superior that will make a mechanical lock up. They work great. No wiring required. It comes with 5 different springs so that you can set the lockup at whatever speed you want. I just installed one yesterday and was extremely impressed. The vehicle shifted to od at 48mph anf then converter applied at 55mph. Its much easier than rewiring the vehicle.

  Tommy Painter
  county9@yahoo.com

• Date: Thu Aug 24 01:39:24 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, no lock-up

  Hi David, I would install the TransGo Shift Kit (full, not Jr). It will allow you to use the checkball setup, plus it will fix the horrible shift timing that the '82's had. It will also make the trans last a lot longer, too.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Thu Aug 24 05:16:09 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, no lock-up

  David, if this trans is an 82, than you should a lock-up shift valve train in the valve body. With this you can use a heavier spring to raise the speed at which the lockup clutch applies. If you make to late though, you may get a complaint of loss of fuel mileage seeing that this is a diesel. If you have a Transgo kit, they give you plenty of springs for this application. Bob Perry

  Robert Perry
  bobauto2000@aol.com

• Date: Thu Aug 24 05:25:13 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, no lock-up

  Dave: I agree with Leo & Bob. In addition to what they said, I would install the roll pin for the lockup valve train upside down from the bottom. That way, if you choose the wrong spring and the lockup speed is either still too early, or too late, you can change the spring with the valve body still in the truck. You won't have to remove the valve body. I just hate lubricating my eyeballs and armpits with hot ATF. :-( Sincerely,

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

• Date: Thu Aug 24 05:47:07 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, no lock-up

  use normaly open switch 4th gear port in valve body nearest 2nd accm and run 12 volts to it 4th gear only lock up.

  Les Richardson
  lesauto@kca.net

• Date: Thu Aug 24 05:58:52 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, no lock-up

  Dont buy any shift kit save half the money and get the lock up valve from the dealer. Part # 08673299

  Brian Rogers
  eatons_trans@netzero.net

• Date: Thu Aug 24 07:29:08 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, no lock-up

  Dont buy any shift kit save half the money and get the lock up valve from the dealer. Part # 08673299 Brian Rogers eatons_trans@netzero.net Brian, Isn't 8673299 the number for the speed sensor(VSS)for the large hole extension housing?

  Michael Habif
  mhabif18@aol.com

UPDATE:

The reason for not bringing it back to stock operation, is that the vehicle is a assembled mess. An old logger rig that has the wiring in a mess. Sounds like the Superior kit is the ticket to eliminate the wiring. Have ordered one and will install tomorrow. Also has anyone put one in on a diesel and which spring from the kit did you use? Dusty

David Duste
dustman@wave.net

MORE RESPONSES:

FIX:

Used the superior kit for eliminating the wiring and it worked great. Used the heaviest spring and it worked very well with the diesel. Thanks very much for all the info Dusty

David Duste
dustman@wave.net

QUESTION:

Repair History: pressures are as follows P,N,OD,3 w/o throttle 140 to 150 psi w/ full throttle 180 to 190 psi R 215 psi w/o TV R 270 psi w/ full TV 2 210 to 225 no matter about Tv 1 175 w/o Tv 1 215 w/ full Tv

Work Completed: Hello folks! I overhault this tranny w/ all recommendations and w/o any short cut. installed SK700 TransGo senior ,471" main boost valve 2nd boost ,3" rev boost ,37" line bias purple AND white spring (recommend by TransGo at phone) enlarged Tv balance hole to 0,062 (recommend by TransGo at phone) after press test removed plunger and sleeve and pressures are good (about 75 to 80) TV valve free to fall out due to it´s own weight plunger #94 Spacer gaskets correct pump slide free to move installed failsafe checkball back

Summary: Any idea on this would be great. If some one answered it would be great to have a phone # maybe there is a back question. The customer needs his car ASAP. Thanks to all in advance. Rosi germany

Falk Rossberg
falkrossberg@t-online.de

RESPONSES:

• Date: Wed Aug 9 13:40:21 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, pressure readings too high

  Falk, Disconnect the t.v cable from throttle body and check pressure. If pressure drops to 80 +/- 10 psi then remove t.v. plunger spring and install original one and readjust from inside car not at throttle body. Good luck

  Paul Moore
  n8249b@chartertn.net

• Date: Wed Aug 9 16:19:50 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, pressure readings too high

  Hi Falk- This a just a shot,but is the t.v.cable link hooked to the t.v. bracket(in the pan)closer to the pan rail than to the v.b.?I seem to remember an old bulletin concerning this. Like I said,just a swag. Cowbell

  Joey Campbell
  bccampbe@neocom.net

• Date: Wed Aug 9 21:50:14 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, pressure readings too high

  Hi Rosi, Did it have the fail safe ball in it when you disassembled it? I have some of those that didn't have the little pin in the tv linkage to offseat the fail safe ball. Just a thought.

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

• Date: Thu Aug 10 01:59:38 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, pressure readings too high

  Hi Falk, A couple of things come to mind. Normally, the TransGo SK would have you leave out the failsafe checkball, for this reason. Have you tried it without it? This would also allow you to try it with the TV cable disconnected just to check. If that doesn't do it, make sure that the TV Limit valve isn't sticking.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Thu Aug 10 05:38:14 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, pressure readings too high

  Falk is the cable bracket touching the tv plunger in the pan? I hope this helps Phillip

  Phillip Gongre
  bojaxx@aol.com

UPDATE:

Hello folks! Thanks for all the replies. After removing the failsafe ball the pressures are fine. PN43 w/o TV 80psi PN43 w/ TV 165psi R w/o TV 125psi R w/ TV 250psi 2 225psi 1 215 psi All shifts feeling good also good performance. But it wouldn´t 2-1 kickdown. The cable adjustment is tightest I can. This mean the lightes touching the cable boost the pressure at the gauge. Only one click more boost the press w/o any throttle. Nevertheless there is no 2-1 kickdown. The throttle cable linkage is the originally one from a "crossfire" TransAm of ´84. What should be the total cable travel from zero to full throttle? Anything else that could be important here? Thanks in advance. Rosi germany

Falk Rossberg
falkrossberg@t-online.de

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Thu Aug 10 15:48:34 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, pressure readings too high

  Hi Falk, The correct range of travel is 1 7/8" from closed to WOT. If this isn't correct, fix this first. I have seen factory setups that didn't have the correct travel, especially on THM200's. Was that CrossFire a 700? Are you saying that the car won't WOT 2-1 after the minimum throttle 1-2 upshift, as the SK instructions tells you to check? Or is it that it doesn't kickdown 2-1 at a point that you feel it should? Make sure that the injector throttle plate is actually at the wide open position first and then, with the pan off, make sure that the plunger is fully seated in the VB at WOT. If that is OK, take the SK instructions and make sure that all of the end plugs are in place that go in the VB (the little aluminum plugs). Next make sure that the individual TV throttle valves for each shift valve is properly indexed. You will see a flat indentation on the end of each of the TV Valves that will line up with the roll pins when they are in correctly. Also make sure that any pressure switches that are on the VB don't leak when checked (some will squirt a little oil out as they are air checked, but it shouldn't keep blowing out). Is this the correct trans for the car or is it a transplant? If all parts, especially the VB and governor are original and these checks don't bring out the problem, you may have a factory mismatch of one of the VB components. At that point you may be better off contacting TransGo again with what you find but if you want to call me, my home number is 1-716-872-6505 and my work number is 1-716-288-9070 (5AM till ?), this is Eastern Standard Time here.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

FIX:

Hello folks! I double checked line bias, TV limit, PR, both boost valves. No mismatch, misassembly or sticking. I figured out after flooring the pedal w/ engine off and start it the pressure pumps up from 70 to 140 psi. Starting w/o flooring the pedal before give immediately high pressure. The failsafe ball can effect this as Leo mentioned. I removed it and got good pressures. After correcting the TV cable travel to 1 7/8" as Leo mentioned I have had a good road test. Thanks for all your ideas. Hopeful you have good day. Rosi germany .

Falk Rossberg
falkrossberg@t-online.de

PROBLEM / FIX:

Problem / Fix: Chuck- You need to post to the "new transmission problem" area. We can't reply to a "problem/fix' post as it is a one time message. To answer your question, there are different sized of feed holes in the reverse input drums and if you use a drum with the big feed hole in a late tranny you will get a really harsh reverse engagement. Likewise, if you use the late drum with the small hole in an early trans you will get a reverse delay. Just check the size of the hole and try and match it. Kit ----------- Kit Lindsay Lindsay Transmission 1111 South Maguire Warrensburg, Mo. 64093 www.lindsaytransmission.com 660 747 2272 You pay 800 875 4588 I pay 660 624 2861 Cell 660 747 2861 FAX Serving on TRNi with the Industry's Best Shops ------------------------------------------------------- Subject: 4L60E, Reverse input drum interchange - PROBLEM/FIX Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 13:49:12 -0700 (PDT) From: TRNi Inc Reply-To: error@webbcon.com To: "trni3@mh.databack.com" Date: Wed Sep 6 13:49:10 PDT 2000 Subject: 4L60E, Reverse input drum interchange Vehicle: 1993 chevy c1500 Problem / Fix: I was wondering if you can use an old syle reverse input drum(one with a steel piston)in a newer application (one that uses aluminum piston).This clutch never had a durability problem so why all the changes. Chuck Baker dc2klann@aol.com

Kit Lindsay
lindsay2@sprintmail.com

QUESTION:

Mileage: 140000

Repair History: Just rebuild with a Gill Y. Jr shift kit

Work Completed: road test make sure up shift and detents are ok

Summary: Just rebuild with a Gill Y. Jr shift kit. Everything works great.....except just before coming to a stop, you can feel it down shift very noticeable. Any suggestion. Question 1. Does anyone know why Gill Y. puts a special plastic check ball No. 5 in the (bath tub location) in the valve body. Question 2. What does it do? Thanks Walt

Walt's Trans
waltg@relia.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Sat Feb 26 15:49:32 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, down shift very noticeable
  Hi Walt, I would grind the servo piston down in the center @ 1/8" or so. If I remember correctly they don't have you do that on the JR(or am I thinking of the 4L60E SK?). I believe that the rubber ball is meant to seal off the little notch in the hole on all but the diesel units to help keep the L/R alive. Personally, whenever I have an older 700 like that I use the full SK since it fixes all of the timing problems that they have. Maybe that is part of your problem?

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Sat Feb 26 16:52:38 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, down shift very noticeable
  Hi Walt, I agree with Leo in the early 700's run the full Gil kit(NoYoYo)it fixes alot of shift timing problems.I fit the jnr to 88 up tran's only(with aux v/boby).There was a post yesterday about 700 (early)with lock up problems and the noyoyo was the fix.Goodluck! Regards Kim

  Kim Walton
  citytrans@webscene.com.au

• Date: Sun Feb 27 07:16:13 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, down shift very noticeable
  Hello Walt! I´m with Leo in the recommendation to install the full kit in the trannys before 1985 because of very common timing problems. But I did not believe that the full kit will cure your problem if the Jr. can´t. Was this complaint present before installing the Jr.? I know there was an service bulletin for a complaint such as this. And you should grind the servo as Leo indicated. This will effect the 4-3 downshift. Which down shift is your´s. A time ago I have had a Blazer with a 3,73 axle from ´88 with the same complaint. So I did not believe it´s a problem of early units. But the customer didn`t like spend money in this. So I couldn´t find out it. Do you have also an axle similar to this? The 2-1 down shift is only releaseing the band by the servo return spring. This means the L/R roller comes on. If this is too hard I fear you must live with it. Good luck. Rosi germany

  Falk Rossberg
  falkrossberg@t-online.de

FIX;

Was only affected in D position only The way I understood it from the Trans Go tech is that will happen in drive but not od OD position works fine.

Walt's Trans
waltg@relia.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: 10600

Repair History: none

Work Completed: none pending

Summary: 700R-4 Subject: Mechanical Diode by Raybestos (forward sprag replacement) Has anyone installed one? If so what would be your rating form 1-to-10 and any comments. I would appreciate your input. Walt THANKS

Walt's Trans
waltg@relia.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Wed May 3 19:55:48 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, pending, OH Subject:
  I have never used one, have a friend that uses them exclusively, rates it a 10.

  Frank Choate
  jfranklinc@aol.com

• Date: Wed May 3 20:14:35 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, pending, OH Subject:
  Walt I have used one of these one way diodes with no problems so far but after found out that they have a high failure ratio. I'm still sweating on this one. Hope this helps.

  Richard Ennest
  rennest@cgocable.net

• Date: Thu May 4 04:21:38 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, pending, OH Subject:
  I will not use them in anything but a drag strip trans. Raybestos still does not have all of the KINKS worked out of this part. The problem is when the transmission is in 4th gear the sprag or diode is overrunning. This causes the flappers of the diode to melt down or have premature wear because of the internal alignment of the rotating parts in the transmission. (not everyone puts a full set of bushings in on every trans.) This is what a Raybestos Tech. told me as well.

  William Anthony
  roadmaster.trans@att.net

• Date: Thu May 4 04:26:04 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, pending, OH Subject:
  Yes,,,,,,I have used 2 of them,,,,,,,,,,,,and have had 2 CB's because of them. The problem is the outer "hub" makes contact with the inner race and makes metal,,,,,,lots of metal. When I had my failures, I talked with a Tech at Raybestos. He said they were in the process of redesigning the part,,,,,,possibly putting a bushing in there. They paid me for the parts and labor,,,even a TC. It was originaly made for dragracing. On a street vehicle, driving in OD, that hub is overrunning, and that is where the problem starts. Soooooo,,,,, if you're intenet on using one, make sure they have updated it. I haven't checked into them lately, so maybe the problem has been solved by now. Call Raybestos and find out.

  Darwin Upton
  darwank@usinternet.com

• Date: Thu May 4 04:33:54 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, pending, OH Subject:
  Hi Walt, I have used a couple. The first one took a crap. Raybestos did send me a check to cover the price of the diode and R&R. The other is still out there some where.

  John Lovell
  ent@crosslink.net

• Date: Thu May 4 09:01:19 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, pending, OH Subject:
  Walt, we installed 3 of them about 3 or 4 yrs ago.Pulled them all back out. my rating number is not on your scale

  Ron Geddert
  dadstran@home.com

• Date: Mon May 8 07:42:59 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, pending, OH Subject:
  Raybestos removed them from the shelf. Saying that they would not hold.

  Stanley Roper
  roper@nwol.net

FIX;

Decided not to use the manecanical dioe after reading the input information from the rebuilders.

Walt's Trans
waltg@relia.net

QUESTION:

Mileage: 88000

Repair History: None Never bin oh

Work Completed: Road test

Summary: Transmission has never been worked on. Can ay of the following be the cause? Question: 1. TV cable adjustment 2. Fast engin idle. 3. Governor. 4. Band out of adjustment 5. Can a broken accumulator Spring the problem? Your input will be appreciated!! Walt

Walt's Trans
waltg@relia.net

RESPONSES;

• Date: Sat Apr 1 02:29:08 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Hard down shift
  Hello Walt! Do you mean coast down shift or half throttle or detent or with the selector? Wich downshift or all? The causes will be different. Good luck! Rosi Falk - Mobile germany

  Falk Rossberg
  falkrossberg@t-online.de

• Date: Sat Apr 1 03:01:54 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Hard down shift
  I think everybody on TRNi should get together when talking about downshifts, Lets specify, coastdown shift or kickdown shifts. I'm ASS-U-ME-ing since you mentioned engine idle, we are talking about a coastdown. Lets talk about what happens on a coastdown on a 700, in the OD selector position, a 4-3, 3-2, or 2-1 should not be felt if the engine idle is proper as it is overruning 2 sprags. At or after stop, it may jerk as the engine torques back into the forward clutch for several reasons, engine idle too high, bad mount, slack in the output shaft splines, slack in differential, bad U-joint, etc. In the D3 selector position, everything being normal, a very slight bump can be felt on a 3-2 coastdown and this is normal as the overrun clutch is applied, but not on a 2-1 as it is still overrunning the low sprag. On a kickdown, you'll have to be very specific, as to which gear, etc. Clear as mud?, I thought so.

  Frank Choate
  jfranklinc@aol.com

UPDATE:

Walt's Trans
waltg@relia.net

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Sat Apr 1 13:24:10 PST 2000
  Subject: 700R4, Hard down shift
  Walt: An excessively fast engine idle can cause a harsh downshift on this year and make. Beleive it, or not, we had one come in that had a harsh downshift due to a bad thermostat. The ECM never saw the engine come up to temperature, so the natural fast idle the engine is supposed to have when cold, was always there. Customer replaced the thermostat....fixed. However, if it was TV cable-related, you would have late & harsh upshifts, as well. I wouldn't think it was a broken accumulator spring (although they have a tendency to break a lot), or you would have a very firm 1-2 upshift. Check the engine idle speed, first (because that's the easiest) and let the group know if it's in the 700 RPM range, first...then get back to us. Thanks for the question, as well as posting you fixes. We can ALL use the information. Thank you. :-)

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

FIX;

Was only affected in D position only The way I understood it from the Trans Go tech is that will happen in drive but not od OD position works fine.

Walt's Trans
waltg@relia.net

QUESTION:

Repair History: Rebuilt a year ago.

Work Completed: Check main line and testdrive. 1-2 TOO early at 5mph at light acc..Other shift right on time.Adjust tv no change.Main line as follow: Warm at idle : 65psi in d4,d3 and120 in d1. Reverse is 115.Pressure rise is good.

Summary: Is there any way too correct 1-2 shift. I did have .283 int./rev and and.471boost valve.Thank you.

Quan Trinh
qtrinh4805@aol.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Wed Sep 13 11:01:06 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 1-2shift too early

  Hello Quan , put a heavier spring on the 1-2 shift valve it should take care of your problem.

  Curt Preston
  gbat2@webtv.net

• Date: Wed Sep 13 12:39:11 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 1-2shift too early

  Hi Quan, I would check your 1-2 shift valve spring. Could be broken or weak.

  Daniel Wills
  danwills@mindspring.com

• Date: Wed Sep 13 13:20:39 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 1-2shift too early

  Quan, There are truck 700s that are calibrated to shift early on the 1\2 and regular shift on the 2\3 and 3\4. If that is not to your taste the replace the valve body Stuart

  Stuart Kay
  powerflo@juno.com

FIX:

Thanks everyone, i removed the valve body this afternoon and the 1-2 shift vakve spring was broken in to two pieces.I Stole another spring from a stock valve body, and it worked great.Thank you once again. Quan in Texas.

Quan Trinh
qtrinh4805@aol.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: unknown

Work Completed: Transmission was burnt up. Rebuilt transmission,install one of dacco pump and torque converter.also install ball and capsule.flushed system good. After installing transmission back in vehicle it cuts the engine off in forward and reverse and also has fluid coming out of the overflow.

Summary: Have anyone out there had any problem like this other than a 4x4 that's listed in the fixdata. The torque converter was replaced on the second installation after the first attempt. Could it be in the rebuilt pump from dacco? Dacco pumps comes with out the valves in them. Check all valves when pulled out the first time and all was free. Any suggestion other than putting it out of it's misery.

Janice Easter
hun6@juno.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Wed Sep 13 19:54:19 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, oil overflow/shuts engine off

  Try this: Remove the cooler line, out to cooler, put a fitting and a hose onto that fitting at the case and run the hose into the filler tube. Then try it and see if you have the same problem. Slowly pull the hose up out of the filler tube and check flow. I'm guessing that you have a resticted cooler or cooler feed and the lack of cooler flow is backing up inside the converter and applying the converter clutch. Also something to watch for on rebuilt pumps is missing cup plugs.

  Jimmy Taylor
  odie@gci.net

• Date: Thu Sep 14 04:32:55 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, oil overflow/shuts engine off

  This is probably not much help but........ A couple of years back we had a pump from Dacco that was missing some of the small cup plugS.After we put an experianced pump in all was fine. Timmy

  Timothy Carney
  timjames@prodigy.net

• Date: Thu Sep 14 05:28:42 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, oil overflow/shuts engine off

  Pull it out and check the face clearance of the pump. You prabably have a bad pump. I quite buying Dacco a long time ago because of these kinds of problems.

  Gerald Martire
  transmission_doctor@yahoo.com

UPDATE:

cooler flowed fine for about 30 seconds and then started releasing air.

Janice Easter
hun6@juno.com

MORE RESPONSES:

FIX:

after all the headache we finally put another dacco pump in and that took care of all the problem.

Janice Easter
hun6@juno.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: got bench job after another guy rebuilt 3or4 times, we believe he switched valve bodies,after install late 2-3. increased governor waits and better but still needs to come down to 30mph from 37. switched 2-3 valve train and sleeve to larger diameter from.459 to .479 with little effect, but left spring the same.

Work Completed: switched 2-3 valve and sleeve to larger diameter from .459 to .479

Summary: we have been told that the seperator plate is diffrent for a diesel. identification? we are going to try a softer sring next in the 2-3 assy.but the one we have is only slightly softer and i thingk the larger diameter valve and sleeve we installed would have had a more pronounced effect than a spring change. tips, suggestions? this is our first use of this service

Sam Jones
transmission.exchange@imsday.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Thu Sep 21 09:32:41 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, late 2-3shift, 1-2good,3-4 not bad

  Sam: You need diesel valve body, transfer plate, regulator valve train and governor. Usually, when you run into these differences it is because someone replaced the diesel engine with gas, and the transmission shifts too soon. Yours is the opposite. As far as the transfer plate goes, you need GM part # 8654483, which has the letter 'S' stamped on it. HTH

  Lane Floria
  lane@net-link.net

• Date: Thu Sep 21 10:16:53 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, late 2-3shift, 1-2good,3-4 not bad

  Hi Sam You say it's your first time on the net here,well welcome,it is a good tool.I think your going to need to get a deisel VB and plate, and maybe govenor,Transtar can help you with parts. Hope this helps you,See Ya Harold

  Harold Field
  trblshtr@tdstelme.net

• Date: Thu Sep 21 11:05:11 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, late 2-3shift, 1-2good,3-4 not bad

  HAD THE SAME PROBLEM ON A PICK UP TRUCK.THE VALVE BODY&SEPERATOR PLATE IS DIFFERENT FOR DIESEL APPLICATION.

  Don Harrington
  donhd53@sprint.ca

FIX:

ended up changing only seperator plate with a "b" diesel seperator plate with little effect. changed 2-3 shift spring to a lighter working height. we thought that changing the valve and sleeve from a .459 to .479 would have a greater effect since a bigger diameter increases the pressure at the spring but it seemed to have less effect than changing the spring itself. alls good.

Sam Jones
transmission.exchange@imsday.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: trans was rebuilt a few yrs back came in with 2-4 band smoked and 3-4 clutches wasted everything else ok

Work Completed: after pan removal pulled unit and did a oh mok,band,tc,sk,etc.

Summary: on road test found l.u. was coming on right after 1-2 shift we disconnected lu. outside trans and adjusted tv cable works great customer had to take truck was going camping this weekend will bring it back on tues. or wed for diagnosis its been so long since i had this problem on one of these i forgot procedure on checking for this problem. this vb. has 3 switches on it can someone tell me most common things to check on this thanks in advance.

Gregory Gaal
gregg505@aol.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Sat Aug 12 13:21:40 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, lu comes in right after 1-2 shift

  Greg: I had a 4T60E do the similiar think once and I had left a small thimble filter out of the channel plate, found out this was a orfice restrictor, install it and worked fine. But what going through my minds eye is I can't recall that type of an orfice in a 700 except for the govn. feed at the rear of the case and the lock-up filter in the front of the case. If that front filter is left out could this be the same problem?

  Frank Nelson
  nelsonfj@wcoil.com

• Date: Sat Aug 12 13:49:02 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, lu comes in right after 1-2 shift

  Sounds like one of the switches is stuck on. The lockup solenoid is energized all the time.

  Dale Blake
  dblake@telusplanet.net

• Date: Sat Aug 12 14:42:25 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, lu comes in right after 1-2 shift

  hi Gregory 700's use 2nd gear oil for l.u. & some lu on top of 2nd / release shift to 3rd /lu, release / 4th then lu again sometimes hard to get around on some models. does yours have a tcc valve in v.b.assy' if so replace it w/ a stronger spring that won't coil bind etc. in sleeve / or use desiel set up . might cut "d" wire wire in series w/ non grd s/w in 4th tap/servo if two wire type just be sure not to put ball in snout of sol. seen this cause same complaint on some models.

  Frank Wadlow
  ftwadlow@aol.com

• Date: Sun Aug 13 10:25:57 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, lu comes in right after 1-2 shift

  Try unplugging the LU wires from the case. If it still has LU you have a Hyd problem

  Jeffery Funk
  shiftkit@specialtytrans.com

• Date: Sun Aug 13 19:58:59 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, lu comes in right after 1-2 shift

  You know since you unpluged the trans & problem stopped I would be looking for a short to ground on the negative side of the solenoid harness, because there is 12v power to the solenoid with ignition on & brake released. Maybe the insulation is cracking on the wires in the pan & shorting against a wire clip, or heavon forbid an r&r man pinched the harness in the bell housing, if not then the ground wires run up the driver side back of the motor to a vacuum switch mounter on the firewall between the brake booster & the engine. Hope this helps.

  Bernard Robbins
  gearboxr@home.com

• Date: Mon Aug 14 14:31:42 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, lu comes in right after 1-2 shift

  Greg, if I'm not mistaken the unit you are working on should have a tcc valvetrain. The unit always has a hot coming from the computer on the earlier models,the switches just pull to ground. True you probasbly have a bad switch but I would try to recalibrate the tcc circuit with another spring also. Should'nt lock up that early even if the switch was hung in that year model........ Tommy

  Tommy Bolton
  vegagt74@aol.com

FIX:

closing thread

Gregory Gaal
gregg505@aol.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: trans exchanged with shelf unit

Work Completed: trans exchanged with shelf unit

Summary: We have hooked up signal monitor (uncertain if it was hooked up correct) We hooked the positive red (Popper tester) to the red on lock up solenoid and the negative black to the ground side of solenoid. Light does not come on at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Christopher Helmuth
transmissionhouse@hotmail.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Wed Aug 9 20:02:11 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, no lock up

  Hi Christopher, key on engine off there should be 12 volts to tcc solenoid red wire this voltage will go away when stepping on the brake, if thats good then its up to the computer to ground the solenoid depending on tps & vss & map inputs. Or you can attach the tcc ground wire to a normally open 4th gear switch & tcc will come on & off with 4th gear.

  Bernard Robbins
  gearbox@dellnet.com

• Date: Wed Aug 9 23:24:28 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, no lock up

  Christopher, Check the "F" terminal on the DCL under the dash. If the "F" terminal isn't B+ then check the brake light switch and the computer. Good luck.

  Roger Pryor
  whizwheel@aol.com

FIX:

We replaced a circuit board enclosed in a black box next to the module. The fuse on the board was burned out. (sorry but I do not have part numbers).

Christopher Helmuth
transmissionhouse@hotmail.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: This is a rebuilt core off my self,with SK,OH kit,convertor.I do bushings etc and get piston travel down in paks.I'm thinking it must be related to the two symtoms but don't see it.

Work Completed: All shifts except 2/3 are good and on time.No kick down but cable is free and adjusted.,VB on bench now but don't see anything to cause this that I know.

Summary: I have air checked it and all sounds right as far as bleed by and piston travel.I air checked servo and that moves good.All the valves are moving,so if you can point me in the right direction I could use it. Thanks I hope I'm not considered a bone head and am filtered off all your e-mails See Ya Harold

Harold Field
trblshtr@tdstelme.net

RESPONSES:

• Date: Mon Oct 2 08:30:06 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, No kick down/ 2/3 flare

  Hello Harold, My first inclination is a poor pressure rise problem. I'd make sure that your cable is adjusted properly first of all. Second, I'd put a gauge on it and check for good pressure rise. This step may uncover your problem right away. Make sure you don't have a worn out boost valve. Personally, I put a .500" boost valve in all 700's. They are readily available from Sonnax. This would especially be a good idea in a hard working 4X4. Luckily for you, you can do this without pulling the trans out. It's a bit of a hassle getting it back in, but it can be done. If this is not your problem, then you may have a problem with the checkball capsule in the case leaking. The one that's directly behind the band servo. Normally, I pull all of those out and put a cup plug in it's place. It definitely won't leak and I've never had a problem doing this. If that still is not your problem, you may want to check your servo. Do not EVER use a 554 servo. In this truck, I probably would have gone with a 092 servo if it's a V-8. If it's a V-6, I'd go with a 553. The servo not only applies the intermediate band, but also acts as the accumulator for 3rd gear. If the servo is too small for your application, you can get a flare. The last thing, which would be aweful, is too much clutch clearance in the 3-4 clutches. Personally I prefer to keep mine pretty tight. I usually keep it around .030" Too loose could cause a flare. Also, you may want to check your band clearance. I like to keep it at .125" of travel. If it's too much travel, you could always weld on the end of the servo pin to get the desired travel. That's all I can think of for now. By the way, you are not considered a bonehead. Just be sure to post a good fix so we can all learn from each other. Also try and help your fellow transmission brothers when they are in a pinch. That's what the whole thing's about. Fernando Rosales Transmission Physicians 5802 S. Dale Mabry Tampa, Fl 33611 (813)835-8728

  Fernando Rosales
  surflobstr@aol.com

• Date: Mon Oct 2 08:35:51 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, No kick down/ 2/3 flare

  October 02, 2000 Hi Harold, No...you're not a bonehead and don't even consider it! With regards to your 700 with 2-3 flair and no K/D, the two symptoms seems to fall into the area of insuffcient pressure rise. Since you didn't post any pressure readings, it's difficult to pinpoint the cause. Install the TV lineup into the VB. Look carefully at the middle lands on the TV valve through the round hole in the VB casting. Now depress the TV plunger to the bottom. When the plunger is fully depressed, the two lands on the TV valve must be visible towards the 9:00 position in the VB casting hole. Ensure that you have this valve and all others free and properly installed. Install the VB and before you put the pan on, have someone step on the throttle to the floor and ensure that the TV plunger is bottoming. Put the pan on and install a gauge. Test drive and if the 2-3 flair and / or no KD is still present, record the pressures (especially during the 2-3 flair) and update your message. Stevie L. TEST Research.

  TEST Research_Tech_Dept
  testResearch@ibm.net

• Date: Mon Oct 2 10:27:15 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, No kick down/ 2/3 flare

  Hi Harold- Is it possible that you have a mis-match on the v.b./separator plate? (vented line bias valve vs. non-vented type.) Just the first thing that popped into mind. This maybe a "bonehead" reply! :-) Cowbell

  Joey Campbell
  bccampbe@neocom.net

• Date: Mon Oct 2 11:02:31 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, No kick down/ 2/3 flare

  Check the throttle valve, and make sure there is no extra spring on the inner most valve. I have had several come in where a previous builder has added a return spring similar to those we use on the Chrysler governors, to the throttle valve. These springs cock and cause problems with the tv system.

  Gerald Martire
  transmission_doctor@yahoo.com

• Date: Mon Oct 2 11:06:27 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, No kick down/ 2/3 flare

  Harold, Double and triple check your valve body gaskets to make sure that you are using the right gaskets for this unit. Been there done that, causes wierd problems.

  Gerald Martire
  transmission_doctor@yahoo.com

• Date: Mon Oct 2 11:22:06 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, No kick down/ 2/3 flare

  Thanks for all the replys,I just got back to the garage and still have the VB on bench.I didn't start with oil psi because I was sure it was in the kick down area,I had installed SK and thought I messed it up.So I checked all the valves,plate,and gaskets,and all seems well.I tried to get the plate down without loosing the balls so I could see if I messed up there,too late now for oil psi so I'll get there after I get it back together.I always air check clutches on bench and check the hub etc and unless I was sleeping that all should be ok.Pak clutch gaps are always set down around .030 or as needed,I never skip that,again unless I was sleeping,but still you can hear nice clutch apply.I am going to pull servo to see if something is messed up there.Travel is always checked on bench as well as capsule. I'll get back with fix(positive thinkging)or oil psi which ever is needed. Thanks for the help,I am always looking for something I can help you all with,but most of what I've done is the older stuff,and you've all been there.This is the first time I've ever had this problem,I don't have problems often but when I do I am weak in fixing them. See Ya Harold

  Harold Field
  trblshtr@tdstelme.net

• Date: Mon Oct 2 11:33:38 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, No kick down/ 2/3 flare

  Oh I forgot to mention on the earlier post I'm not sure if you call it flare what this is doing.All shifts are good and on time and rev is good,one reason I skipped oil psi and went strait to no where.It shifts to 3rd at right time,you feel the timing of the shift then nothing then it's in 3rd,so maybe it is something other then flre. Harold

  Harold Field
  trblshtr@tdstelme.net

• Date: Mon Oct 2 12:06:32 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, No kick down/ 2/3 flare

  Harold, just change the entire input sprag assembly. Put in the one that you cannot see the copper ring as you look down into the input housing. I have been fooled by a few of them, so if you already have the second design, then replace with same. Good Luck Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Mon Oct 2 14:04:01 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, No kick down/ 2/3 flare

  Hello again Well I got VB on and same thing.I am hampered by the lift kit he's got on the trk.I cannot get it in any gears lower then OD,on the colum.It starts in low and shifts up ok.The oil psi's for P=80/150for R=120/225,N=80/150and OD=80/150,I was on road and when the flare happens oil psi's stay at 80 as they are when you take off and it goes 1-2.I did have kick down some at lower end.I would like to see oil psi in manuel 1-2&3 but colum will not go down,He's at the end of rod.The servo looked good,I did find some fussy material from rags in it and cleaned it out.I guess I'll have to take it out. See Ya Harold

  Harold Field
  trblshtr@tdstelme.net

FIX:

Well Fellars it's working OK.I can not tell you the fix.I had unhooked the shift rod and put it in first by hand to test further and out of frustration I floored it because his rear brakes aren't worth two cents and the wheels spin instead of getting stall After the hand shifting for oil psi's I went for one last run before I took it out and it shifts great and has kickdown.Go figure.I use the thick paper out of kits on my bench surface and once I caught a peice of it in one of the pump capsules and luckily I saw it before I but the pump in.Somewhere looking in Transdoc and the CD I see something about pump capsules,so I don't know if when I floored it maybe something blew out.He's going to take it and I'll hold my breath. Thanks for all the replys and help. See Ya Harold

Harold Field
trblshtr@tdstelme.net

QUESTION:

Repair History: Rebuilt Trans Kit, Band, Input sprag, Converter, Shift Kit

Work Completed: Pulled Trans 2-4 Band Cooked All Clutches Looked Fine

Summary: Is This A Servo Problem I Have Tried Two Used Servos Thanks

John Sines
johnbsines@compuserve.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Sat Aug 26 09:13:17 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Soft 1-2 Shift

  Hi John, Could you provide us with more detailed info, starting with pressure readings? This is all ranges at: idle, fast idle, and fast idle W/TV pulled full, plus, how is the TV response (does it respond as if the gas peddle is attached to the gauge so that whenever the peddle is moved, the gauge should move). Was the band 'cooked' originally? Is this an actual Shift Kit? Does it have the original carb setup (meaning is the TV geometry correct)? How is the 1-2 accum piston and bore? What size servo are you using (should be a 553, minimum and never the 554)? You can also put a gauge on the 2nd and 4th oil, to see if you are getting oil in the curcuit at the wrong time, dragging the band.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Sun Aug 27 12:24:50 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Soft 1-2 Shift

  hi john, things to look for, bad drum not straight check with a straight edge, weak spring in back of servo use blue spring from superior,install s-kit, also check checkball capsule in case inside servo hope this helps.

  Gregory Gaal
  gregg505@aol.com

• Date: Sun Aug 27 22:02:12 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Soft 1-2 Shift

  Hi John, Leo makes a few good points, is the carb a rochester & does the arm bottom out the plunger at WOT with the pan off? Who's shift kit, did it tighten up band clearance (can help a warped drum, straight edge across band surface), 553 & two groove pin, change to a 3 groove pin & a 093 servo, 1-2 accumulator piston to pin fit, check it with the 3-4 pin from case if it wobbles change it, if the housing is scratched up change it or install sonnax fix.Needs a good sound pump 2 slide springs for more pump volume, .500 boost valve & green PR spring for good line rise.1-2 feed hole size depends on taste, I like it smooth & firm 093piston-.95, 553-.110. I'll assume you didn't change the case,spacer plate, or valvebody, so you shouldn't have a mismatch, but your kit should help you there.

  Bernard Robbins
  gearboxr@home.com

UPDATE:

After pulling this trans four times we removed the retainer & ball in the servo and pluged that hole. We put the trans back in and had a good second gear, but after about six or seven miles lost second but still have forth. Pressure is park & neutral is 63 psi reverce 105 psi d4 63 psi d3 63 psi d2 & d1 120 psi we have tried 3 servos where do we go from hear THANKS.

John Sines
johnbsines@compuserve.com

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Mon Aug 28 08:32:31 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Soft 1-2 Shift

  Sound like your going to have to pull the trans back out, this time use a borg band and make sure the travel of the band is only 1/8. Oh and check the reverse input drum with a straight edge.

  Steve Allbee
  sallbee@worldnet.att.net

• Date: Mon Aug 28 08:49:50 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Soft 1-2 Shift

  Hello John , 256k thats alot of miles . I didnt see any main line pressure readings so I will guess . check the boost valve if thats ok , go to your 1-2 accumulator valve it is either worn out or the spring is dead . sonnax makes a service kit for this and it comes with 3 springs to dial it in . hope this helps

  Curt Preston
  gbat2@webtv.net

• Date: Mon Aug 28 15:56:45 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Soft 1-2 Shift

  Hi John, I had this same experience once only on a 700, good forth and no second, after many attempts to solve the problem we finally determined that the case bore in the area where the outer seal for the second clutch piston rides was worn. We made a seal by using a servo straight cut seal from something but I do't remember what, sorry but it worked fine and stayed out. It's something to check. Good Luck!

  Hal Quantz
  halq@hotpop.com

• Date: Mon Aug 28 18:37:14 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Soft 1-2 Shift

  If it worked fine for a little while, maybe your servo cup plug started leaking.And you know I worked for GM thru the '80's & chrysler & olds thru the '90's & have built more 700's than I can remember & have yet to ever need to change or delete the servo check ball. Reading some post it seems alot of guys do.

  Bernard Robbins
  gearboxr@home.com

• Date: Tue Aug 29 01:29:24 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Soft 1-2 Shift

  Hi John, I am reposting my original response in hopes that it will be answered: Could you provide us with more detailed info, starting with pressure readings? This is all ranges at: idle, fast idle, and fast idle W/TV pulled full, plus, how is the TV response (does it respond as if the gas peddle is attached to the gauge so that whenever the peddle is moved, the gauge should move). Was the band 'cooked' originally? Is this an actual Shift Kit? Does it have the original carb setup (meaning is the TV geometry correct)? How is the 1-2 accum piston and bore? What size servo are you using (should be a 553, minimum and never the 554)? You can also put a gauge on the 2nd and 4th oil, to see if you are getting oil in the curcuit at the wrong time, dragging the band. I see that some pressure readings were given but the rest must have been cut off somehow from your post. Also, What does the cup plug have to do with second gear? It is on the 3rd gear side of the servo. If that helped then you must REALLY have a problem.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Tue Aug 29 14:59:04 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Soft 1-2 Shift

  Somebody said to chk the band clearance and from experience that is what I would do first. I had one do the exact same thing after I machined a little too much off of my reverse drum. I had no 2nd but I still had 4 th. You can bet that I chk the travel on the band regularly now ,especially when I machine the drums. Tommy

  Tommy Bolton
  vegagt74@aol.com

• Date: Tue Aug 29 19:12:06 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Soft 1-2 Shift

  Hi, John. If the band was originally burned from the first rebuild, I would try a shorter length servo pin or grind the pin that you have a few thousanths so your band will be a little looser. Might try to sand the reverse input drum and check with straight edge. Good luck, Jason.

  Jason Gilbreth
  gilbreth@aeneas.net

FIX:

Thanks for all your help. It was the Reverce Input Drum where the band runs wase not flat. I never had this problem before, But I will check it from know own. Thanks again

John Sines
johnbsines@compuserve.com

PROBLEM / FIX:

Problem / Fix: Car runs till hot then goes neutal noisy, sounds like stripped sun shell.Cant find problem inside.Is not in transfer.

Randall Fredette
caref@ctel.net

QUESTION:

Repair History: Rebuilt after convertor failed

Work Completed: Installed check ball in lockup solenoid as customer claimed he had intermitent no lockup

Summary: Trans had failed torque convertor, did complete overhaul, now customer says there is no engine braking when slowing below 70 km (40 mph) on a grade the car coasts away & he has to ride the brakes, also swears that lockup came on in 2nd before we overhauled it. We did not alter any calibration on the valve body (no shift kit). Lockup occurrs at 65 km (35 mph), vehicle has engine braking in manual 2nd & low.

Ken Buehler
kbuehler@freespace.net

RESPONSES:

• Date: Wed Aug 16 20:39:31 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, No engine braking in drive position

  Hi Ken, it's possible that it did have lockup in 2nd before, but GM didn't desiegn it too. It's should come on in 3rd at about 30-35 mph with lite throttle. no engine braking in drive range would be a leak in the coast clutch circuit, the reason it comes on in manual 2nd & 1st is the increased line pressure in these ranges overcomes the leak.

  Bernard Robbins
  gearboxr@home.com

• Date: Wed Aug 16 20:40:09 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, No engine braking in drive position

  Ken: First off, get that check ball out of the solenoid. If you have a M200 Sk laying around put the RED accumulator spring in the TCC valve. This weighs in at 11 pounds, you can go up to 16 pounds. This will put you into LU at a higher speed. It will also kick you out of LU at a slower speed. As far as 2nd gear LU goes, that is just stupid. I like to have it come on right after 4th, but that would take some wiring changes. I will be glad to help with this. I recommend that you do the spring change first. Get that check ball out. Remember the solenoid can be charged, but if the TCC valve is not stroked, then no LU. Good Luck and please post the fix. Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

FIX:

Vehicle never returned so I,m closing this thread.

Ken Buehler
kbuehler@freespace.net

QUESTION:

Repair History: rebuilt trans complete

Work Completed: basic test

Summary: need wiring diagram for tcc. this is a calif. emissions and is a bit different. ecm will not ground the sol. but I can't find out which wire from the ecm is to test. could use a diagram real bad. thanks Jeff

Jeff Anglesey
apautooldtimer57@aol.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Thu Nov 2 01:49:10 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, tcc electric

  Hi Jeff, I don't have the schematic but how about making it L/U hydraulically by blocking the sol snout with a checkball?

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Thu Nov 2 04:35:43 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, tcc electric

  Jeff: What Leo says can possibly help. I've personally done it many times. However, if it does fix it, when you deliver the vehicle to the customer warn them of the 'trailer-hitching' effect. When you perform this modification, the TCC doesn't disengage when you let up off the gas. Also, lockup can come in slightly early and give the driver the feeling of "no power" or "lugging the motor". For several years I was using the diesel poppet-valve converters in these to avoid the 'trailer-hitching' effect, but the cores for these types of converters have become very rare. Almost extinct. When they went to the 30-spline input shaft in '87; that idea didn't work unless you had a custom built converter. :-( Sincerely,

  Larry Bloodworth
  larry_b@certifiedtrans.com

• Date: Thu Nov 2 08:53:18 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, tcc electric

  Hi Jeff Your FAX number please........... -- ----------- Kit Lindsay Lindsay Transmission 1111 South Maguire Warrensburg, Mo. 64093 www.lindsaytransmission.com 660 747 2272 You pay 800 875 4588 I pay 660 624 2861 Cell 660 747 2861 FAX Serving on TRNi with the Industry's Best Shops -------------------------------------------------------

  Kit Lindsay
  lindsay2@sprintmail.com

FIX:

thanks for the responses, I had the customer on my back and wound up tracing the wiring. was a pain in the butt, but it had to be done now, you know what I mean. Thanks any way. Jeff

Jeff Anglesey
apautooldtimer57@aol.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: scan for codes none presant

Work Completed: All seems to be fine with this vehical however vehical is extremely over loaded wont stay locked up cause you have to keep your foot at least half throttle to maintain speed 55mph

Summary: Is there anything I can do to satisfy this guy converter is constansly locking and unlocking tps voltage is about 2.00 volts when it unlocks and this is where he has to keep the throttle to maintain speed.

Jody Schroeder
jody@compfxnet.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Fri Oct 13 17:56:10 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Torque converter wont stay locked up

  Well it's an '87 model, so the VB should still have the hole for the lockup valve train. Install the late lockup valve train & put a ball in the solenoid & lockup will come on around 4th gear & unlock with kickdown pressure. Of cpurse if it still kicks out at the speed he wants to drive, install the early sleeve & valve & spring. This will bring it on around 35 mph & be much harder to kick out. If its got that much weight on it, without torque mutiplication from an UNLOCKED torque converter it probably wont maintain speed unless even more throttle is added. He should have bought a heavy duty 3\4 ton instead of the light duty 3\4 ton & he would have an axle ratio made to tow & a 4l80e instead of a 700. Although I don't remember GM making the light duty 3\4 ton untill about '90. Anyway, if its working that hard, you better get a big cooler on it.

  Bernard Robbins
  gearboxr@home.com

• Date: Fri Oct 13 19:02:04 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Torque converter wont stay locked up

  Jody: Have roger install a 16# coilbind spring in the TCC valve. Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Fri Oct 13 21:21:29 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Torque converter wont stay locked up

  Your post does not mention whether or not it is unlocking in 4th or 3rd. Assuming it is 4th and it is very overloaded, what happens when the owner puts it in 3rd? Whenever we get a customer that trys to do things with a vehicle that it was never suppose to do, we take them for a special test drive. With the vehicle in 4th at a 55 mph cruise, manually downshift the vehicle to 3rd without changing your accelerator position. In most cases, the vehicle will gain speed and you will find that you have to let up on the throttle to maintain your cruising speed. End result is more power with better fuel economy. Dave Schaffel dbschaffel@home.com

  David Schaffel
  dbschaffel@home.com

• Date: Sun Oct 15 22:09:03 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Torque converter wont stay locked up

  Jody, Let's see the 1987 model is computer controlled TCC. This means that the valve body should NOT have a TCC valve in the valve body, but a plug instead. It should have a 2 wire TCC solenoid. It should also have a a 4th gear and maybe a 3rd gear switch. The gear switches do indeed affect the TCC command strategy. A bad 3rd or 4th gear PSI switch can cause 'ticky' TCC apply and release. What you need to know is the TCC being commanded to release? Look at the gear switch state positions on the scanner while driving it. 2.00 volts is close to being so heavy of a throttle, that you may have to alter the vehicle in some way to offset the load.

  Dan Tucker
  transman@prodigy.net

UPDATE:

This is a Jasper unit under warranty and after contacting there tech guys they want us to replace the lockup sol. Customer has taken vehical and we ordered new solenoid awaiting customer to return vehical for work to be completed. Will keep you all posted of actual fix.

Jody Schroeder
jody@compfxnet.com

MORE RESPONSES:

FIX:

Closing this thread we replaced tcc solenoid as per request of Jasper engines and transmissions. This job has been extremely difficult in determining the customers complaint even when driving down the road with this customer his complaint changes everytime he is questioned never get the same story twice. We observed the lock up not releasing when applying the brake or letting off the gas brake switch is working. Customer wired up his own computer we are passing the buck on this one.

Jody Schroeder
jody@compfxnet.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: overhauled unit last year. always had flare. unit works perfect otherwise.

Work Completed: changed fluid and filter.

Summary: is there any fixes without r&r. i have the valve body on the bench. thanks for any input.

Jacob Holdrege
jakesrepair@aol.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Wed Nov 8 14:20:42 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 flare up

  Hi Jacob, Were there any tricks done, like hogging out the 2-3 feed? IOf so then resize the hole and try it again. Otherwise you can try tightening the band adjust and see if it helps. If not, the TransGo Shift Kit should take care of it.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Wed Nov 8 15:17:42 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 flare up

  The old gil kits sometimes created this problem. Quick and sleazy repair is to go one size bigger on the servo piston. If you shift kit the superior works better for this problem. Don

  Don Callender
  tranclin@firstworld.net

UPDATE:

this trans does have a gil kit. 3rd feed hole .170. 3-4 accumulater has stock natural spring. sorry for leaving this out.

Jacob Holdrege
jakesrepair@aol.com

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Wed Nov 8 19:06:00 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 flare up

  Jacob, The 3-4 accumulator does not affect 3rd gear. Only 4th. I normally just block that one off by ramming a checkball into the case. As far as your 3rd gear flare. Just step up to a Corvette servo and that should take care of it. It will firm up your 1-2, but it will also firm up your 2-3 and most likely remove the flare. The servo acts as the 3rd gear accumulator. Most importantly, I think you should have checked your pressure. If you have too low pressure, you can get the flare and putting in a bigger servo will only mask a deeper problem. You should definitely check the servo size. 554 is absolutely unacceptable. 553 is Ok for V-8's, but I prefer the Corvette for heavy use applications. Fern

  Fernando Rosales
  surflobstr@aol.com

• Date: Wed Nov 8 23:11:27 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 flare up

  HI Jacob, Is this the Reprogramming Kit or is it a Shift Kit? That .170 feed sounds like the problem.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Thu Nov 9 06:24:13 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 flare up

  Jake, The easiest way to cure a 2/3 flare,is a sonnax #77701-076. Its a check valve assembly, that cures 2/3 shift timing when the feed orfice has been drilled out. Ernie

  Ernest Spear
  etranz49@gte.net

• Date: Thu Nov 9 10:39:05 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 flare up

  Never go more than.125 on the feed hole. Could be your problem. Restrict down or change sep plate. Put the strongest spring you've got in the 1-2 accum. Block the 3-4 accum. You can use an old piston on top of the new piston or an old GM speedo gear. Try it You'll like it. Don

  Don Callender
  tranclin@firstworld.net

• Date: Thu Nov 9 14:17:07 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2-3 flare up

  I have to agree with Leo on this one. I would say that .170 is way to big. Bob Perry

  Robert Perry
  bobauto2000@aol.com

FIX:

REPLACED SEPERATOR PLATE AND FLARE IS GONE. THANKS EVERYONE FOR ALL THE INPUT.

Jacob Holdrege
jakesrepair@aol.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: t/c changed 6 mths ago by dealer for a l/up shudder

Work Completed: i o/hauled unit and changed input drum( just to be on the safe side) couldn't see too much wrong inside other than the 3-4,s were a little burnt.customer didn't want t/c changed

Summary: I dont believe this is l/up related because tapping brake pedal the l/up applies perfect.

Andrew Faulkes
scutrans@aol.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Tue Nov 7 15:01:00 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, crunch on 2-3 shift (intermittent)

  If you didn't change the converter, is your TV contaminated and sticking?

  Don Callender
  tranclin@firstworld.net

• Date: Tue Nov 7 17:30:16 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, crunch on 2-3 shift (intermittent)

  What kind of crunch? Is it fresh or stale,your not giving us much help.

  Fred Whitaker
  fwhit84684@aol.com

UPDATE:

Sorry guys for the short description, but I had the customer breathing down my neck. To fill you in, what i am experiencing sounds like a metallic shudder on the 2-3 shift and also will do it on 3-2 forced downshift. Its hard to get it to do it every time. Truck must be hot and will do it regardless of where t.v. cable is set.I disconnected lock/up to rule that out and still does it. It will only do it on lighter upshifts if you put your boot into it it works fine. I hope that helps, thanks for now.

Andrew Faulkes
scutrans@aol.com

MORE RESPONSES:

• Date: Thu Nov 9 11:11:53 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, crunch on 2-3 shift (intermittent)

  Andrew, Check the inner sealing ring on the servo (the large one) for shrinkage.Take it off and fit it into the servo bore.I had some make a metallic chatter noise on the 2-3 and the 3-2 shift from a batch sealing rings that shrunk.

  Gerry Gallus
  tsirichfield@mindspring.com

FIX:

Dont know if I fixed or not but havent heard from customer. I changed the input sprag and sanded the races, also polished the 2-4 servo pin as it had some marks on it. Thanks for the help, Andy.

Andrew Faulkes
scutrans@aol.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: Vehicle came in with burned up 3/4 clutches.

Work Completed: Tore down and installed overhaul kit, rebuilt convertor, flushed cooler lines. Did not install shift kit or do any other modification.

Summary: This truck has good line pressure at idle and good line rise-all within spec. Shifts ar good and not delayed. But no up shift to 4th. Used a tapped 2-4 servo cover to pressure guage-no pressure. Removed governor and valve free and no slop in bore. Used another 700 R-4 governor-still no pressure at 4th servo. Went through the fix feed backs and used vacuum hose to wddge out the governor weights and its starts in 4th fine and has good pressure and line rise (this was done on the rack). I am not sure what the next logical step is. I am assuming the 3-4 shift valve had to stroke to get 4th. I even pulled the valve body again and checked it over carefully for sticky/stuck valves-none were that way-all free. I am stumped on this one although someone I am sure has the obvious answer. Thanks in advance, Respecifully submitted, Loren Knighton Woodland, CA.

Loren Knighton
backncardr@aol.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Tue Nov 14 22:47:04 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, No 4th unless Gov. weights wedged out

  Loren: We have a TRNi member (Ron Widing) whom I'm positive will respond to your problem. He is the inventor of a transmission program called TransDoc. Ron is evidently on drugs, because he sells this program too cheap. Strongly recommend that you consider this as an addition to any other shop diagnostic programs that you may have. I never begin a teardown without it. It allows me to instantly focus on just about any problem. So, sit tight Ron will be with you shortly. Good Luck, Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Wed Nov 15 01:29:27 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, No 4th unless Gov. weights wedged out

  Hi Loren, Check the pressure switches on the VB. Often they will leak causing this problem.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Wed Nov 15 02:53:57 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, No 4th unless Gov. weights wedged out

  Loren, You say you're checking this in the rack. Do you have no 4th on the rack or have you driven it and have no 4th. We have run a few on the rack and couldn't get 4th. When we drove it, we had 4th. Don't know why and not all of them are like this, only a very few.

  Dell Wellons
  woodchpr@worldnet.att.net

• Date: Wed Nov 15 10:49:01 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, No 4th unless Gov. weights wedged out

  Sounds like a leak in the front pump. We air check pump on bench for cross leakage. Saw one that one of the encapsulated check balls fell out of stator. Had several that leaked line at the boost valve. Try the sonnax boost valve 1/2 inch id. They all will cause a loss of line and never make enough pressure to take 4th. RPM kits have a bulletin to drill a hole in the sep plate to cure 3-4 clutch burnup. DON'T do this. causes same problem. Take two cross leaks and call me in the morning. Don

  Don Callender
  tranclin@firstworld.net

FIX:

Well this one is down the road shifting fine. I am very grateful to all that took of their time to lend suggestions and Ron Widing to Email the list of his Trouble Shooting Guide 9. Went through everything on the list. Still no 4th. Then I remembered Dell Wellons said he had a few that wouldn't get 4th on the rack but on the highway they would. So I took this beast out in the country and it shifted fine. Never had one like that before. I don't get it but at least it's ok. Also thanks to Jim 111, Leo, and Don Callender for their help. This was my first post and a happy ending. Respectifully submitted, Loren Knighton Woodland, CA.

Loren Knighton
backncardr@aol.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: o/h transmission with new reman pump clutches seals

Work Completed: reinstalled line pressure was at fifty in park, falls off to 0 when you drop in gear and graually rises then falls back off gets lower when it gets hot, tried differant valve body no change

Summary: has anybody had a problem with pump that looks real good or should i look elsewhere

Paul Egleston
pjmotorsports@prodigy.net

RESPONSES:

• Date: Fri Nov 10 17:29:00 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, loss of line pressure

  Paul did you put the thimble filter in the pump? Reman units don't come with that or the big ball and spring for pressure relief. Good luck, Don

  Don Callender
  tranclin@firstworld.net

FIX:

thanks for the reply Don. never did see anything wrong with visible portion of pump, but ended up replacing it with another reman after pressures were fine.

Paul Egleston
pjmotorsports@prodigy.net

QUESTION:

Repair History: Morning sickness. Oh unit and replaced the TC

Work Completed: extended breather tube and installed cooler

Summary: Customer states that vehicle interm. blows atf out the vent. Any solutions. Trans works great. Thanks

Richard McClain
sprag2@aol.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Wed Oct 4 18:35:10 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, ATF blow out the vent

  Richard: If you are not running the cooler separate from the radiator, then please do so. If the problem continues after that, then you have a warped pump. Good Luck. Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net

• Date: Thu Oct 5 10:40:32 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, ATF blow out the vent

  Another thing that will cause that smae problem is wrong pump gasket. You need the one that covers the baffle on the pump. Good luck, Yogi

  Jeff White
  stealth@mscomm.com

FIX:

replaced the fr. pump

Richard McClain
sprag2@aol.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: None

Work Completed: none

Summary: I would like to Know if anyone has install a V-8 in a S-10 and what modifications should be done to trans, The motor will be a TBI engine, All computor working, I want trans to shift smoothly like stock, Not going to be pulling heavy loads. Any info About Transmission would be helpful. Thank You

Gary Nelson
nelsonauto@hotmail.com

RESPONSES:

FIX:

No Response. Oh Well Trial and Error

Gary Nelson
nelsonauto@hotmail.com

QUESTION:

Mileage: 165882

Repair History: rblt 4yrs ago, this is second time back in last 2 years; truck is lifted with 34"tires, speedo is accurate,shift points are good for ratio. At first doesn't want to go to OD, once in it feels bindy. Last road test lasted 3 miles, 1mile in od, coast clutches welded together, went fwd all gears. Only coast clutches burnt, checked input drum, was bleeding across into coast piston when 3-4 clutches were applied. Replaced drum with earlier drum, used shaft from original trans. same, problem not as bad?

Work Completed: see above.

Summary: What should we do to verify where problem is? (v.b.;drum,case?)

George Whittaker
gdd2000@localaccess.com

RESPONSES;

• Date: Fri May 19 01:54:40 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, bind 3-4, burning coast clutches
  Hi George, I would be looking closely at the input shaft and the stator bore where it rides. Did you air check through the pump assy to see if the overrun clutches are partially applying? These like to wear the rear bushing in the stator and allow the shaft to rub. If the inner srface of the stator is worn at all replace it.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

• Date: Fri May 19 02:14:14 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, bind 3-4, burning coast clutches
  I remember reading that these input shafts can twist and crack and it is hard to detect. Seems that checking involved putting it in a vise and twisting it.

  Mark Pugliese
  marklpugliese@aol.com

• Date: Fri May 19 04:03:16 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, bind 3-4, burning coast clutches
  What sealing rings are you using?? You should only use the solid rings for the input shaft on this transmission. I have also traced this problem down to the tube in the stator turing and causing this problem. Hope this helps.

  William Anthony
  roadmaster.trans@att.net

• Date: Fri May 19 18:17:19 PDT 2000
  Subject: 700R4, bind 3-4, burning coast clutches
  why did you use the origanal shaft? if there is a cross leak it is going to be a crack in the input shaft not the drum! this is a common problem here in the middle of texas , home of the 40ft. gooseneck tralier. most of them we see are broke in half.

  Billy Tippit
  batippit2@cs.com

UPDATE:

George Whittaker
gdd2000@localaccess.com

MORE RESPONSES:

FIX;

The author's membership with TRNi expired. Therefor, the thread was closed with no fix.

QUESTION:

Repair History: None

Work Completed: Teardown for inspection

Summary: Hey guys....Got this one tore appart and cant see anything wrong. Frictions look new. No valves stuck in vb, no cracks in any pistons, no hard parts damaged. In reverse, it feels like parking brake is on. It will back up if you rev engine to about 2500rpm, but as soon as you let off gas it stops like the brakes are on. All forward gears are okay. Checked both front and rear brakes and the drums and rotors roll free backwards. Read the fix database and didnt see anything there. Anyone have any ideas?

Tommy Painter
county9@yahoo.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Mon Nov 20 12:55:07 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Binds in Reverse

  Hi Tommy, I seem to have a vague recollection of a problem in the aux. VB causing this. However I don't remember exactly what. Might be worth a try to just swap it out.

  Clayton Allen
  claydo2@aol.com

• Date: Mon Nov 20 13:27:01 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Binds in Reverse

  Do you have any other info. Was this a recent rebuild? or did this just happen all of a sudden. First check check ball locations if it is a recent rebuild. If it happened all of a suden look for something that may cause something to apply or hold while low/rev clutch is on with rev input clutch. Good luck Paul

  Paul Moore
  n8249b@chartertn.net

• Date: Mon Nov 20 14:24:52 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Binds in Reverse

  Tom,I can remember I had a simular problem, turned out to be a real long valvebody bolt in wrong location binding on the shell,hope this helps.....joe

  Joe Zahn
  rjzahn@usaor.net

• Date: Mon Nov 20 14:34:53 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Binds in Reverse

  What's it do in forward ranges?

  Don Callender
  tranclin@firstworld.net

• Date: Mon Nov 20 14:39:02 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Binds in Reverse

  4-3 sequence valve or 2-3 shift valve stuck in uipshifted position (ATSG # 89-67). Possibly too long VB bolt, 2nd from front, 2nd row from shift lever side, binding the shell, but that would give you a 2nd gear start and a 2-4 shift.

  Gary Glaenzer
  glaenzer@csj.net

• Date: Mon Nov 20 16:03:41 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Binds in Reverse

  Tommy, is this a 700 or a 4l60E? If it is a 700 with an aux. valve body, make sure that you did not install the checkball in the bathtub in the main valve body. Correct me if I am wrong, but the long bolt only applies to the 4l60E. Bob Perry

  Robert Perry
  bobauto2000@aol.com

• Date: Mon Nov 20 17:24:34 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Binds in Reverse

  It happened all of the sudden. This trany had never been apart before. I haven't put it back together because I couldn't see anything wrong. All forward gears appear to be okay. No stuck valves or blown gaskets. No hard part damage. No scorched or burn clutches. Everything looks perfect.

  Tommy Painter
  county9@yahoo.com

• Date: Mon Nov 20 20:57:07 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Binds in Reverse

  Had the same happen to me, used a new pump without any valves in new pump, installed new TCC and PR valve and installed and had same problem, torn down trans and everything looked good except looked at pump and forgot to put in the spring and large ball on side of pump, everthing worked fine, did you change out pumps by any chance.

  Frank Garlick
  trannydr@yellowsub.net

• Date: Tue Nov 21 05:05:36 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Binds in Reverse

  This is usually the 4-3 sequence/ 3-4 relay valve lineup that causes this. It is the band being applied causing the bind. Put the car on the lift and pry in on the servo cover and have someone put car in reverse. If cover pushes out then I'd look at this valve real close. Have found that valve won't be stuck, but will have something causing it not to CLOSE all the way. Had a couple that on bench looked fine, pulled valves out and found sliver of metal laying in bottom of passage. HTH James

  James Northum
  inarush76@aol.com

• Date: Tue Nov 21 17:12:40 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Binds in Reverse

  WE cant have A bind up without toasting clutches.I,d look at them emergency brake cables again.

  Fred Whitaker
  fwhit84684@aol.com

• Date: Wed Nov 22 16:30:56 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Binds in Reverse

  Tommy, it sounds like we have a checkball in the wrong place. CJ of Canada

  CJ of-Canada
  info@transtechca.com

FIX:

Found a small aluminum shaving inside the 2-3 shift valve aluminum capsule. The valve was free, but when pressurized, that small piece of aluminum filing would hang that darned valve. As soon as you shut engine off and removed valve body...valve was free. Would never have found it you guys not told me to remove the valve and look for cutting inside capsule. Excellent diagnosis. You guys are great!!!!

Tommy Painter
county9@yahoo.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: Overhauled: New Clutches,Band,Seals,Gaskets,Corvette Servo,.500 Boost Valve, New Input Sprag, & Rebuilt Converter.

Work Completed: Still here from overhaul.

Summary: Flares on kickdown after 60 mph. Kickdown fine from 3-2, 2-1, and even 4-3 between 50 -60 mph. After 60 mph when you kick it down, it flares up then catches and goes. We did pull it again and seen nothing wrong. Went back through everthing. Even tried another sprag. Still again same problem. Let me know what else it could be. Thanks

Mark Bowler
bowler@wworld.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Wed Oct 25 01:26:12 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Flares on kickdown from 4th to 3rd

  Hi Mark, Did you sand the races when you had the sprag out? If the races are still polished, the sprag can 'hydroplane' until the oil film goes away and then grab. Was the reverse drum and/or the sunshell flared out when you first did the job? If so, then this is a classic sign of a major slip/grab of the sprag.

  Leo Schneggenburger
  lschneg1@rochester.rr.com

FIX:

Repalced Vavle body and Spacer plate. Someone had wrong setup intstalled. Thanks for all the help.

Mark Bowler
bowler@wworld.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: none

Work Completed: rebuilt trans with a supirior shift kit . trans has a delayed engagment in reverse and slips then grabs. the stator had a small diameter feed hole and the reverse drum had a large square hole with the steel piston. i then replaced the boost valve to a size 4.72 and the inter. valve and rev. boost valve to a 2.80 size , but with no results. the reverse drum had no leaks upon pressure testing it , the low revese clucth pack also had no leaks . i had replaced the pump also but with the same casting numebers. the idle on the engine is around 600 rpms is this enough rpms for revers? forwrd engagment is ok with no delay , thier is a slight flare on the 2-3 shift , even with the larger boost setups.

Summary: could this be a valve body problem ? or a pump problem ? thanks in advance frank

Frank Islas
fdmaislas@aol.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Thu Nov 30 05:18:42 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, delay in revers . slips in reverse

  Frank, Do a pressure test in all ranges at idle and wot for 1 sec. Look for boost in reverse. Could be cut seals, incorrect clutch stackup, worn valves, many things!!

  Paul Moore
  n8249b@chartertn.net

• Date: Thu Nov 30 05:19:16 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, delay in revers . slips in reverse

  Hi Frank What pressure do you have? If it is idling at 600, why don't you put a coin or something between the throttle stop and the linkage to get the idle to 700-750 and then see how it engages. We have dealt with this same problem a couple times and it was idle related in our case both times. I am sorry I don't remember what we did to increase the idle though. It has been a while but someone on the net here may know a shortcut. Hope this helps-

  Kit Lindsay
  lindsay2@sprintmail.com

• Date: Thu Nov 30 07:16:33 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, delay in revers . slips in reverse

  Frank, you changed the pump. Does it have the thimble filter and the ball and spring in the stator side. Seen both of those left out on lots or reman pumps. Don

  Don Callender
  tranclin@firstworld.net

FIX:

hi everyone , i want to thank everyone for there replys . the fix was the revese drum had to much clearance. asfo the 2-3 flare , installed a corvett servo. frank

Frank Islas
fdmaislas@aol.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: none

Work Completed: overhaul,kit and clutchs.input drum,bearings,converter,new stator,s/k shift kit.

Summary: trans air checks all clutches in input drum,3/4 applies through pump.but i still dont have 4th gear.checked everything in book this morning.and cant see the forest for the trees.help has anyone run into this before.thanks in advance for any help.kyle

Kyle Tuttle
twotuts@aol.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Tue Jun 20 19:13:13 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2/3 stack,no 3/4

  Kyle, The 3-4 clutches stay applied in both 3rd and 4th. If you have a good and solid 3rd gear then the 3-4 clutch is not the problem. The servo applies differently for 2nd and 4th. For 4th gear, the pressure is directed to the piston that is in the servo cover. A torn or missing teflon ring in that location could cause your concern of no 3-4. Seeing as you stated that the 2-3 shift is stacked, my money would be on sticking valves in the valve body. The 3-4 shift valve likes to stick a little after a rebuild sometimes. Also, over-torquing the valve body bolts could cause them to bind in the bore too. As to the 2-3 shift, I am assuming that you mean it shifts 2-3 shortly after the 1-2 shift. If so, that could be caused by a broken spring in the 2-3 shift valve line up. I hope this helps!

  Robert Bruce
  robertlb@ev1.net

• Date: Wed Jun 21 05:44:15 PDT 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, 2/3 stack,no 3/4

  Have you taken a good look at the Gov ? When you check the Gov remember when checking the movement of the inner weights that the very last small drop in the valve is your 3-4 shift. High mileage units will wear the weights & pins & prevent the 3-4 shift. Try a diifer gov with the same size weights.

  Jeffery Funk
  shiftkit@specialtytrans.com

FIX:

sorry i forgot this one its been so long ago,but put new v/b gaskets in and all worked well.thanks kyle

Kyle Tuttle
twotuts@aol.com

QUESTION:

Repair History: Vehicle originally had a 350c that has failed. The transmission has a spacer that when removed, allows a 700 to fit without changing driveshaft length so a swap seems logical now as per the owner.

Work Completed: Finishing the overhaul as we speak

Summary: I have a 700 2-3 kit and I was wondering what the brown checkball is for. Transgo's lines are real busy at the moment

Carl Wassermann
wasseca@echoincorporated.com

RESPONSES:

• Date: Thu Dec 21 09:10:20 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Installation quiery

  brown ball goes in valve body.......in the bathtub portion..it is in the instructions...goodluck....brian reagan

  Brian Reagan
  bjr1a@mail.ru

• Date: Thu Dec 21 09:17:34 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Installation quiery

  Carl. The brown check ball is I think the #9 checkball. It goes in the valvebody, there is a bathtub back towards the park pawl. It was eliminated on 1988 and later models and some 1987 models. Check your separater plate if it has 2 round holes, it takes the checkball. What year of a transmission are you installing? The reason you have a block between the 350c and transfer case is because somebody had already converted the truck from a 700r-4 to a 350c. You are putting it back to original.

  Dale Blake
  dblake@telusplanet.net

• Date: Thu Dec 21 09:54:05 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Installation quiery

  I too remember the 700 kits, It seems to me that the larger checkball was to put into the tcc solenoid so the kit could take control of lock up. I know it was this way in the earlier kits. I have not usd a kit in probably 9 years. So it may have changed. Yogi

  Jeff White
  yogi@mscomm.com

• Date: Thu Dec 21 10:21:47 PST 2000
  Subject: RE: 700R4, Installation quiery

  You can go to the bank with this. The 5/16" checkball is for the TC solenoid spout (Don't do it) The big plastic ball is for the bathtub at the rear of the VB. The early units check ball was enlarging the hole in the separator plate, that's the reason for this oversized ball. Good Luck. Jim, III

  Jim III
  stardust@frontiernet.net